Sport dashboards
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Sport dashboards
It's time to get the dash on our mag back to original. It has experienced a few changes over the years but nothing that can't be fixed.
This is what it looks like now:
This is what it looks like now:
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And this is what the instruments looked like before they were replaced with todays Auto Meter gauges.
We need to get back to the original Stewart Warner Marine Deluxe instruments soon. Firstly because they look better but also because the present Auto Meters are not marine grade and they filled with water during the first test run.
We need to get back to the original Stewart Warner Marine Deluxe instruments soon. Firstly because they look better but also because the present Auto Meters are not marine grade and they filled with water during the first test run.
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When I started to check the wiring it turns out that both the small red light to the left and the parallel switch are disconnected. Does anyone know what they are?
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Not sure what the red light is for, but the parallel switch is a battery parallel switch , It should connect to a solenoid type(automotive type looking, as in older Fords) switch(Mounted between the batteries) and its used to make a parallel connection of two batteries on the Magnum. The battery parallel switch is a momentary switch and only closes the solenoid when it pushed and held to the left or right. It opens the solenoid when you release the switch and the circuit goes back to a single battery set uo
With parallel batteries, the voltage stays the same but the current increases to help crank over the engines.
Newer rotating type swiches will pretty much do the the same thing but are set by hand , rather having a dash switch make the batteries parrallel
Hope this helps
Thank you
Jim
Last edited by dammmagnum; 03-16-2010 at 05:01 PM.
#6
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Yes, the solenoid switch has the heavier red battery cables connect to it on the lower left side of the photo
The thinner white wire should come from the parrallel swtich
It should be connected to one terminal on the swtich.
There should also be power(12 Volts) going to the other terminal on the parrallel switch under the dash.
All the parrallel switch is doing, is closing the solenoid to make both batteries in parrallel - same 12 volts, just increasing the current(Amps)
Hope this helps?
Thank you
Jim
Last edited by dammmagnum; 03-16-2010 at 05:33 PM.
#7
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[QUOTE=Jeppe;3068637]It's time to get the dash on our mag back to original. It has experienced a few changes over the years but nothing that can't be fixed.
Jeppe, If you think your dash dose not look original, take a look at my sedans dash when I found her. I bought two sets of gauges from a old cruiser on craigslist for $30.00, not original but old school.
Jeppe, If you think your dash dose not look original, take a look at my sedans dash when I found her. I bought two sets of gauges from a old cruiser on craigslist for $30.00, not original but old school.
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[QUOTE=h2oboater;3069008]
The gauges in the right picture look great, what are they? I especially like the tachs. Stewart Warner don't make them with that short sweep and black lower half anymore.
It's time to get the dash on our mag back to original. It has experienced a few changes over the years but nothing that can't be fixed.
Jeppe, If you think your dash dose not look original, take a look at my sedans dash when I found her. I bought two sets of gauges from a old cruiser on craigslist for $30.00, not original but old school.
Jeppe, If you think your dash dose not look original, take a look at my sedans dash when I found her. I bought two sets of gauges from a old cruiser on craigslist for $30.00, not original but old school.
#9
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[QUOTE=Jeppe;3069314] The tachs are from Sun, & the amp gauges are new Sun Pro, old school look and very cheap at swap meets. The rest are Stewart Warner. I have seen the tachs on ebay but they sell fast, many find there way in 50 & 60's resto hot rods. Many of the old wood & glass boats have them as mine came off a fly bridge Trojan cruiser.
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This is the list of things to be fixed:
-New steering wheel: Covico 14.5" all stainless.
-Fabricate a new center cover with magnum logo for the steering wheel.
-Install the original Mercontrol shift and throttle controls.
-Replace all the switches with new identical ones in chromed brass.
-New push button and rubber cover for the horn.
-Move the drive and tab trim buttons from the side to in front of the throttle controls.
-Replace the metal dashboard with one in teak with the Magnum logo.
-Replace the autometer gauges with original Stewart Warners.
-Add hour meters.
-Add oil temp gauges.
-And finally a new Plexiglas cover for the instruments in 3030 Green.
Right now I'm awaiting delivery from the US of a whole lot of parts a then most of the above can be done quite quickly.
-New steering wheel: Covico 14.5" all stainless.
-Fabricate a new center cover with magnum logo for the steering wheel.
-Install the original Mercontrol shift and throttle controls.
-Replace all the switches with new identical ones in chromed brass.
-New push button and rubber cover for the horn.
-Move the drive and tab trim buttons from the side to in front of the throttle controls.
-Replace the metal dashboard with one in teak with the Magnum logo.
-Replace the autometer gauges with original Stewart Warners.
-Add hour meters.
-Add oil temp gauges.
-And finally a new Plexiglas cover for the instruments in 3030 Green.
Right now I'm awaiting delivery from the US of a whole lot of parts a then most of the above can be done quite quickly.
Last edited by Jeppe; 03-31-2010 at 11:28 AM.