Magnum Sport Restoration Begins!
09-21-2011, 08:46 PM
#21
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bedford & Wolfeboro, NH
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
for your thoughts . . I'd take a serious hard look at replacing floors without pulling the deck. The bulkheads are well glassed, and recreating this throughout the whole hull will take huge hours and is miserable work. Your entire hull to deck joint should be glassed over as well.
As I see it there is no need structurally to replace the floor as one piece, you can create the strength with some additional bulkheads under the cockpit floor.
Your pics show a weak main cabin to cockpit bulkhead, and this piece is IRC originally 2 pieces as the center stringer divides it under the cockpit floor. Once this is removed and the engines are out, you have only a partial bulkhead ahead of the engines that needs to be removed to have access to the entire cockpit floor.
I needed to replace the bulkhead at the front of the fuel tanks, it had previously been removed and caused a 1 1/2" deck sag.
I built it as one piece and found a way to get it through the stock cabin doorway. To add strength I doubled it with 2 layers of 3/4 marine plywood that were laminated before installation.
think of it as puzzle
09-21-2011, 10:08 PM
#22
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
for your thoughts . . I'd take a serious hard look at replacing floors without pulling the deck. The bulkheads are well glassed, and recreating this throughout the whole hull will take huge hours and is miserable work. Your entire hull to deck joint should be glassed over as well.
As I see it there is no need structurally to replace the floor as one piece, you can create the strength with some additional bulkheads under the cockpit floor.
Your pics show a weak main cabin to cockpit bulkhead, and this piece is IRC originally 2 pieces as the center stringer divides it under the cockpit floor. Once this is removed and the engines are out, you have only a partial bulkhead ahead of the engines that needs to be removed to have access to the entire cockpit floor.
I needed to replace the bulkhead at the front of the fuel tanks, it had previously been removed and caused a 1 1/2" deck sag.
I built it as one piece and found a way to get it through the stock cabin doorway. To add strength I doubled it with 2 layers of 3/4 marine plywood that were laminated before installation.
think of it as puzzle
As I see it there is no need structurally to replace the floor as one piece, you can create the strength with some additional bulkheads under the cockpit floor.
Your pics show a weak main cabin to cockpit bulkhead, and this piece is IRC originally 2 pieces as the center stringer divides it under the cockpit floor. Once this is removed and the engines are out, you have only a partial bulkhead ahead of the engines that needs to be removed to have access to the entire cockpit floor.
I needed to replace the bulkhead at the front of the fuel tanks, it had previously been removed and caused a 1 1/2" deck sag.
I built it as one piece and found a way to get it through the stock cabin doorway. To add strength I doubled it with 2 layers of 3/4 marine plywood that were laminated before installation.
think of it as puzzle
09-21-2011, 10:29 PM
#23
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Jackson, n.j. ~ Brooklyn, n.y.
Posts: 2,083
Received 151 Likes
on
77 Posts
The foam around my fuel tanks effectively blocked water passage underneath causing water to pool and rot the cabin bulkhead.....I ripped it out in 2 sections and then reattached it (outside the boat) so I could make an exact template for the new replacement. I also, removed the entire cockpit sole. The floor will be 6" lower when I'm done all done.
I agree with Mario on not removing the deck. Once the cabin bulkhead is removed and the fuel tanks are out you'll have all the room to do every repair with the deck on. In fact, you'll be doing double the work by removing the deck. Cutting all the bulkheads to free the deck from the hull will only require you to go back in there later to glass and re-attach it back together.
I agree with Mario on not removing the deck. Once the cabin bulkhead is removed and the fuel tanks are out you'll have all the room to do every repair with the deck on. In fact, you'll be doing double the work by removing the deck. Cutting all the bulkheads to free the deck from the hull will only require you to go back in there later to glass and re-attach it back together.
Last edited by scippy; 09-21-2011 at 10:36 PM.
09-21-2011, 11:07 PM
#24
Drop-out bolsters
Drop out bolsters are not available in the old style. You can use mine as a pattern or Roberts yellow and White Maltese from Denver S.C. No one around here builds them,however know one in Miami and Ft. Lauderdale who are capable of building them. Bud
09-22-2011, 09:52 PM
#25
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got the floor out tonight, glad I took it all the way out, I found a bunch of soaked and rotted wood as I was tearing it out. Good news is that the hull seems solid in the cabin beneath the tanks, as does the bulkhead between the cabin and cockpit.
I have a question on the floor drains at the rear of the cockpit floor, they were mounted to the outside of the outer most stringer. Upon looking at the design there would be nowhere for the water to go after it passes through the drain it would just stay trapped.... Shouldn't they be mounted inboard of the outer most stringer so water could flow to the center of the hull and be pumped out by the bilge pumps??
I have a question on the floor drains at the rear of the cockpit floor, they were mounted to the outside of the outer most stringer. Upon looking at the design there would be nowhere for the water to go after it passes through the drain it would just stay trapped.... Shouldn't they be mounted inboard of the outer most stringer so water could flow to the center of the hull and be pumped out by the bilge pumps??
09-22-2011, 10:27 PM
#26
Registered
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bedford & Wolfeboro, NH
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got the floor out tonight, glad I took it all the way out, I found a bunch of soaked and rotted wood as I was tearing it out. Good news is that the hull seems solid in the cabin beneath the tanks, as does the bulkhead between the cabin and cockpit.
I have a question on the floor drains at the rear of the cockpit floor, they were mounted to the outside of the outer most stringer. Upon looking at the design there would be nowhere for the water to go after it passes through the drain it would just stay trapped.... Shouldn't they be mounted inboard of the outer most stringer so water could flow to the center of the hull and be pumped out by the bilge pumps??
I have a question on the floor drains at the rear of the cockpit floor, they were mounted to the outside of the outer most stringer. Upon looking at the design there would be nowhere for the water to go after it passes through the drain it would just stay trapped.... Shouldn't they be mounted inboard of the outer most stringer so water could flow to the center of the hull and be pumped out by the bilge pumps??
As these boats float bow high the water will always drain to the stern.
09-24-2011, 08:49 AM
#28
Registered
Got the floor out tonight, glad I took it all the way out, I found a bunch of soaked and rotted wood as I was tearing it out. Good news is that the hull seems solid in the cabin beneath the tanks, as does the bulkhead between the cabin and cockpit.
I have a question on the floor drains at the rear of the cockpit floor, they were mounted to the outside of the outer most stringer. Upon looking at the design there would be nowhere for the water to go after it passes through the drain it would just stay trapped.... Shouldn't they be mounted inboard of the outer most stringer so water could flow to the center of the hull and be pumped out by the bilge pumps??
I have a question on the floor drains at the rear of the cockpit floor, they were mounted to the outside of the outer most stringer. Upon looking at the design there would be nowhere for the water to go after it passes through the drain it would just stay trapped.... Shouldn't they be mounted inboard of the outer most stringer so water could flow to the center of the hull and be pumped out by the bilge pumps??
Glad to see you are restoring this magnum. The drains on my mag are near the center rear of the cockpit floor on either side of the center stringer. However mine is a starfire where they lowered the floor between the outer stringers so the outboard corners are touching the bottom. Either way would work imo. Also, my 2c on drives, the volvos are cool/orig. and everything but I imagine that the transom core is wet and should be redone and if you go that far, why not upgrade to bravos? I just restored my mag last winter so I'm glad to offer any advice. Can't post pics here, i guess I have to upgrade membership or something, but there is a thread on donzi.net/ talk about other boats/" another mag resto" by mdonzim.
Good luck, love the pics so far.
Marshall
09-24-2011, 08:40 PM
#30
Registered
