First, I am sorry for the long message, just watching football, motogp. It's a good day.
I have a 1990 25’ Motion. It is a little dated, but it is mine. Now it is time to rig it with the new 300XS’. I can’t afford to replace all my analog gauges with smartcraft so I want to run a combination of both. Smartcraft monitors, Garmin GPS, analog tachometer, fuel gauges, mechanical water pressure and trim.
This is what I have;
· SC1000 smartcraft monitors
· Full complement of analog gauges, tachometer, head temp, water temp, volt, fuel,
· Mechanical trim gauges and water pressure gauges
· Garmin GPS Monitor
I also have kill switches that came with the boat and my new engines came with one between both motors. This seems unusual. Seems like I should have received two? The new one is also the toggle switch style and the others are a cap style.
I have the following harnesses
· 14 PIN harness with integrated smartcraft connector
· Analog conversion harness that plugs into the smartcraft plug for connecting to individual analog gauges
· Smartcraft harness (Blue old school), I left it in the boat from my previous setup. (Part No. ????)
· 2 - Junction Boxes (Part No. 878492K14)
· 1 – CAN harness (Part No. 893452A01)
I have mounted the engines directly to the transom, turning out, 1 ½” above the bottom and will be running 3-blade cleavers 34” pitch. I am beginning to think I should turn them in??
My problem is using both analog and smartcraft monitors.
I am not running key switches either. The boat has mil-spec toggle switches for ignition, starter’s, blowers, bilge pumps, etc. This thing was raced in the 1990’s under the name of “Goosebumps.” Don’t know anything about how it ran back in the day.
I have 2 – key switches on order (Part No. 893353A03) if I have to use them I will, but my preference is no to.
I have Gaffrig controls, which do not have a neutral safety switch. The engine installation manual says in order to prime the fuel system, turn on the key and within the first 10 seconds move the shift controls from neutral to forward five times to begin priming. The engine harness includes a plug-in for neutral safety switch, can I jumper it, but I don’t want the computer stuck in break-in mode.
The new harness is a thing of beauty; I hate to start hacking it up.
I also run Marine Machine hydraulic steering with Latham Wing Plates. I am sure you know where this is going. I have to cut the lower cowling. I like things clean and simple. I would like to re-attach the cutout section o the lower cowl to have a finished look. Any suggestions, it seemms like I have seen a few that way.
