Silverado242

Guys,

just purchased a new 28 Heat and opted for the 600SCI. Boat does 78 but was expecting in the low 80's. Any suggestions? Drive is Bravo XR with Lab finished Maximus 28. Im thinking of testing with the Bravo 1 32...

Steve Zuckerman

Hi Silverado,
Congratulations on your new Heat, and welcome to the Nordic boards.
The best props we have found (some may disagree) are the Hydromotive P5-X, and Hering 5 blades. The Maximus can be made to work but it takes some serious grinding (aka blueprinting).
I think a 27" or 28" P5-X will work for you. Hydromotive has a test/exchange program. After you find the right pitch, you can also (I would) have the prop blueprinted.
One other thing to consider is your X dimension. For some time the Heats were being sent out with 19" to 19.25" XDs, which we've found to be too high. Most of us with this XD are running a 1" spacer. This propeller depth gives better acelleration and hull lift, and will make your boat less weight sensitive.
I would test the props first. The factory can tell you what your XD is. 18" to 18.25" is ideal.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Here's a link to Hydromotive www.hydromotive.com .
Regards,
Steve

sport

Hello Silverado
Is your boat the 2010 heat that is white, blue, gray, and black if so that is a very good looking heat. That boat was built just in front of mine and I also got the 600sci. My boat also came with a labbed 15x28 short tube maximus and it ran right on 80but it did not cruise all that good so I traded that prop to Nordic for a 30p bravo 1 witch has a little better cruise speed but only runs 78 on top. I have also run a 28 p5x that ran 80 but was real close to the rev limiter so I exchanged it for 29p p5x but I could not tell a hole lot of differance over the 28 so I now have a 30 p5x and it is my favorite so far, 80 at 5000 rpm,s witch is alittle low on rpm's but I am in the process of getting the whipple stage 2 upgrade so my rpm's should go up to about 5500-5600. I also just got a labbed 15.25 X 30p short tube maximus thinking that the bigger dia. might help the slip number alittle, the 28 max that came on my boat was a 15", but if you are going to leave your 600 stock the 28 or 29 p5x is the best I've tride for all around.
p.s all testing has been done at Lake Havasu.
Hope this helps John

sport

Steve
Where did you get your p5x labbed and what did they do to it more cupping or what?
Thanks John

Steve Zuckerman

At Throttle-Up. At the time I started doing business with them they sold several lines (Merc, Hydro, etc.), and did a great job blueprinting them.
Now they only sell their own CNC props, and no longer sell or work other brands. My prop is on the way back from there now. I guess it's the end of the line for me there unless they develop some bravo props.
They did just about everything. Thinning, sharpening, balancing, cupping to the needs of the boat. Some need more, some need less. They also scanned my props so they have that in their database, not that it helps me now.............
There are plenty of other guys out there. My friends have had good luck with Brett at BBlades, and Hydromotive also does their own blueprinting.
Regards,
Steve

CB-BLR

Stock 600sci .. 1" spacer .. Merc Lab 28 .. 80-81 mph @ 5350 rpm
Stock 600sci .. no spacer .. 28 P5x labbed by Hering .. 80-81 mph @ 5200 rpm

600sci .. Whipple Stage II .. no spacer .. 30 P5x Labbed by Hering .. 92-93 mph @ 5650 rpm.

600sci .. Whipple Stage VI .. no spacer .. gonna find out today

Chris

Steve Zuckerman

Hey Chris,
Glad to hear you are back together. Good luck with the testing.
Best Regards,
Steve

Silverado242

Thanks everyone for responing to my prop question.
Sport...yes, my boat is the 2010 white with blue, gray, and black graphics.
CB-BLR...those are great numbers you posted!

Sounds like I need to try the 28 p5x and see what kind of numbers I can bring in. I am planning on leaving the 600 stock, for the first year of warranty, and then probably going to explore the type of setup Chris is at. I will give Nordic a call and see if they are willing to let me test several props before purchasing the one that works the best.

OK...dumb question...what advantage will blueprinting have once I choose the prop that works best for me?

P.S. Thanks John! And congrats on YOUR new Nordic.

Steve Zuckerman

The best way to go fast is by doing it efficiently. The start is the correct prop, and fortunately we have found some good ones that work very well right out of the box.
Some boats need more lift, some less chine walk, some more transom lift.
Water is an incompressible fluid. A propeller that has been sharpened, dynamically balanced, blades pitch matched, thinned and cupped to the specific needs of a hull/engine/drive, will turn more RPM with the same amount of horsepower.
RPM gains of 200/300 can be acheived while lowering slip % with a good "blueprint", resulting in gains of up to 5 MPH over the same propeller in stock form. There are a couple of drawbacks. Like a shapened knife or sword, it is easier to damage a thinned prop. They also have less strength since they have been thinned, which is why some companies won't warrant "blueprinted" propellers. They are more prone to "throwing blades". It hate to say this but I have run into this problem more with Merc props (particularly B1s) because they have casting voids. Not much Hydromotive. Their castings seem more precise to me, and I don't hear that much with Hering either.
Some people keep a stock or near stock, "daily driver" prop thay they use most of the time. And then they use their blueprinted killer prop for poker runs, etc.
It's always good to have a spare, regardless. I'm looking for one now ...............
Regards,
Steve

90mphRAGE

Still have a Merc Labbed B1 28 available too small for my ap.