90mphRAGE

I think I know your old boat, guys name is Tim if I remember correct, very fast (I think he's the only boat to pass me, lol!).
I called Merc, they do not have another stat for the stock, so guess I'll be looking into aftermarket, I'd like to just find a pad adapter with one built in like the stock so I don't have to re-pipe everything.

sport

One more thing that might be causing some milk under the valve covers is 20 psi of water could be pushing alittle water past the gaskets or maybe just to much flow, I alway ran about 15 psi at full throttle and about 8- 10 at cruise. The owner of my old boat installed an imco lower on the drive and it raised the water pressure up to the low 20's and he is now getting milk under the valve covers at wide open and 22 psi but it will burn it back off at cruise which is now 15psi. He is going to install a 15 psi relief valve just past the water pump which we will be tring out on the the 24th weekend. Just something else to think about.

I sold my old boat to friend in Price so don't think that is the same boat that you saw, it was a 1998 and I sold it last fall.

90mphRAGE

I pressure tested w/ 20 psi air & no leaks. Whipple actually recommends 25-30 psi water WOT. I get about the 10-15 @ cruise & 15-20~@ WOT. I've played w/ the restrictor in the therm housing & it doesn't change much pressure. I have flow restricted w/ 5/8" washer. I may remove that. The head gaskets are cometics (not stock) & I don't think that is the issue & it doesn't make a drop in the pan. I'm going to call Whipple today to see about the oil temp/water temp thing. I'm also gonna try the cheap oil cap breathers to see if that helps. I have breather on stb, pcv on port, but they are small. We just did a 565/Whipple (carb) on a Magic & his temps, pressures are nearly identical, maybe even cooler (giant oil cooler, no thermostat) He has the Dart alum heads & valve covers w/ huge breathers. He has no condensation.
The old oil filter was quite plugged up. That probably warmed my oil some. I don't think I ever looked under the caps. New motor made me paranoid & now I look at everything everytime I go out. Maybe it's always had condensation. I also never had a oil temp gauge, so not much prior data.

sport

25-30 in the block sounds a bit high for the block pressure but about right for the inner cooler, Dustin knows his s**t so I would do what ever he tells you. Good luck and let us know what you find out.
John

90mphRAGE

Haven't heard back from Dustin yet, but I talked to Teague. They say I'm right on the money w/ temps. 160-180 oil & 100-110 water is what they run on their Whipple engines, no thermostats. He also said that a little condensation is normal, they see it too on there stuff. I have nothing to worry about & run it, as long as I keep tabs on the pan. I know they build ALOT of SC motors & know their s**t so that eases my mind a bit. I'll let you know what Whipples opinion is. Maybe everyone else doesn't look right after a run, or they would see the same.

sport

Your probably right, when I first built that motor I would always stop a listen to the motor after a hard run to make sure parts weren't tying to change places but after a year or two I didn't worry about it to much.

Nordicflame

iTrader: (4)

Tim's boat was one of my past builds. R-Tech Supercooled 548ci. That boat had passed quite a few boats in its time however the power package has been broken up and is going into a smaller boat

I personally build and set them all up for 25-30 psi at WOT thru restrictor plates and/or Merc pressure relief valves along with rear manifold bleed offs on the crossover setups; blown or natural.

Tim's boat runs/ran 25-30 psi at WOT and not a sign of condensation with a 3"x21" cooler and 190* Mocal thermostat.

I set the Hustler Slingshot 1000hp Whipple motors up to run 25 psi with “very” large Hardin thermo controlled coolers and no sign of condensation.

Jon's (Desert Rage) runs 25 psi and no condensation.

(BTW, I think all three of those passed you )

Also, I set my personal motors to run 25-30lbs and I have no condensation as well. I also run stock Merc HP thermostats and my oil return is always 180-190, 220-240 pan.

Not sure where Teague is coming from on their statement??? Water under the valve covers makes for rusty guides, rocker studs and pushrods at times.

It is critical that you take your time and be very methodical when sealing the Whipple intakes around the water ports (the gaskets vary substantially from brand to brand here). I’m sure your builder did this. Hopefully you installed Cometic head gaskets or that will certainly be a point of interest as well.

Your post cooled oil temp sounds good. If you’re seeing 180* where your sensing then you’ll be ~220* in the pan which is enough to remove moisture. Shoot the pan with an infrared gun after a hard run, you’ll probably see 230*.

Is the cam stock? Reversion can be a cause as well.
See the attached Whipple pdf. Water, Water, Water!

Just some thoughts… Hope it helps
Dave

90mphRAGE

Good info Dave. I have the Whipple manual & saw that. Gaskets, seals, etc. are all what you mentioned & my builder was VERY meticulous (they are good friends from H.S. & I hang around the shop & have been boating w/ them since 13 yrs old). I talked to Dustin & he also mentioned the restrictor. I have 3/4" hole now, I"ll try 5/8". He mentioned breathers may help too. My water gauge doesn't start till 100*, so water may actually be 80-90 idling causing buildup of moisture. Dustin mentioned the difference in temp (oil/water) is probably the cause, not the temps themselves. I'm not talking mad milk, just enough to see & irritate me.
I don't know if the location I measure oil is return or supply, maybe someone can shed light on that (it's port just in front of the adapter on the block, previously just plugged off).
Yeah, I got passed by the 388, but waves were huge. Jon was running with us & there were a couple Flames passing us too. Jon had a light load, I had 6 people & 32p prop. No excuses or bragging, we were all having a good time on a crowded lake. Tim kept up until he evened out the load by putting a few half naked drunk chicks on my boat. He was faster then, but I feel I won!
BTW, both Whipple & Teague agreed heat is the enemy w/ blower motors & they do not suggest I heat up the oil any more.
They both say 160~180* is perfect, water should never exceed 120*
I'll take a temp gun to the poker run this weekend & see what the pan reads. I'll try to get a smaller restrictor by then if I find time.

CB-BLR

On my closed cooled motor... antifreeze temp inside the block stays a constant 140 deg when running, and goes up to 152 deg at idle. Oil temp is a consistant 180-190 deg.
In my case...water pressure obviously is not an issue being that it just is a measure of water flow across the heat exchanger, but water pressure is aproximately 42 psi at WOT.. speed is 100 mph +/-

Chris

Nordicflame

iTrader: (4)

Hey Chris,
Just curious, did you upgrade the heat exchanger? I did a 496HO whipple upgrade and installed the large Sendure HE and it struggled to keep up with the heat transfer.
Your temps look great!

Good to hear on the gaskets 90mph.
Your sensor location is post cooled as are most Merc setups. The pan will read much hotter.
Is the milk worse in the early spring. There is a large delta of temp when the water is 40* however I've still never seen this on any of my builds here in the same environment.

Yes, PV can get very rough at times! I was there that day but never saw you I don't think. There was another Flame that I saw there but don't know who it was.

Unless you can run 105 there at our 5000 foot pond you won't be keeping up with the 388 no matter what the water is like Jason's real good at making you think you can keep up

Also, not sure the health of Tim's motor the past year or two but it was a consistent 93mph boat at the same lake right after I did a refresh on it. Sounds like it slowed way down if it was just even. I do know he was having some ECU and fuel issues that I'm looking at currently for the new owner of the motor.

Someday Jon might think about supercharging but I would put my money on that natural 25 against any other 25 natural around our parts

You guys have fun and be safe this weekend at Utah Lake. I would love to be there as the water is seemingly pretty fast but unfortunately I'll be in Reno/Tahoe for daughter's softball

Dave