Trim Tabs Pulling out of 260SX
#1
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Trim Tabs Pulling out of 260SX
Hi all, I have a 260 SX with factory installed trim tabs. When I was getting it ready for winter, I noticed that one of the screws that mount the tab brackets to the transom was loose. Upon further inspection, I found that they were all loose. There was actually about a 1/8" gap between the transom and the tab mounting plate. I turned them very easily to tighten them and realized that they have almost pulled out(not much bite on the screws left).
So, I am wondering what I should do. I have been told I should put more screws in, as there are only 4 in the base of the tab mounting plate and 3 on the top.
Any ideas on what I should do?
Thanks,
BTW, I really don't use the tabs a lot. Mostly when I am pulling the kids on the tube. It helps keep the boat from sinking at lower speeds. I never use them to get on plane, and very seldom are needed to level the boat side to side. The boat only has 75 hours on it.
So, I am wondering what I should do. I have been told I should put more screws in, as there are only 4 in the base of the tab mounting plate and 3 on the top.
Any ideas on what I should do?
Thanks,
BTW, I really don't use the tabs a lot. Mostly when I am pulling the kids on the tube. It helps keep the boat from sinking at lower speeds. I never use them to get on plane, and very seldom are needed to level the boat side to side. The boat only has 75 hours on it.
#4
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I don't know if I can thru bolt them using the current holes. The tabs are just above the bottom of the hull and the screws are not far above them....maybe an inch or so. How thick is the hull? I will take a look later, but I am not sure if there is access to that area. Hopefully you could get a hand in there for the washers and nuts. Thanks
#5
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I know I installed larger tabs a couple years ago and I have the Insta Trim tabs and there must have been ten 3 " screws on top of some type of 3m adhesive used to seal them. Heck it took longer to get them broke free from the sealant than it did getting the ten screws out. I'm pretty sure there's no way I'd be able to through bolt mine based on location but I'm thinking you have the electric Lemco's based of the year of the bolt.
Before you do anything I would remove both tabs and plats and get a moisture detector and make sure the transoms not wet in that area. This would be a good time to dry it out if it is wet. By the way how long are your screws? You could go a larger diameter as well as longer if there short.
Before you do anything I would remove both tabs and plats and get a moisture detector and make sure the transoms not wet in that area. This would be a good time to dry it out if it is wet. By the way how long are your screws? You could go a larger diameter as well as longer if there short.
#6
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Before you do anything I would remove both tabs and plats and get a moisture detector and make sure the transoms not wet in that area. This would be a good time to dry it out if it is wet. By the way how long are your screws? You could go a larger diameter as well as longer if there short.
#7
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Took the time to call Lenco and they thought it was an installatin issue(no surprise there).
Anyway, the screws are about 1.25" long, and are about 1" up on the transom from the bottom of the hull. I haven't taken them off yet, but a guy at work who has been around a number of boats said that most likely, 1" up from the hull on the transom(where the screws are placed) most likely is solid fiberglass. Does this make sense? If this is the case, then water would not have had a chance to get into the wood core. None the less, he suggested pulling the tabs off and letting it set over winter to dry out and then put them back on in the spring. He talked about osmosis blistering and other issues that are bad when water gets under the gel coat and fiberglass.
Anyway Lenco also said that putting 5200 in the screw holes AND on the backing plate would be a good idea. This makes sense as once these are on, they should stay there.
Thanks for all the advise!!
Anyway, the screws are about 1.25" long, and are about 1" up on the transom from the bottom of the hull. I haven't taken them off yet, but a guy at work who has been around a number of boats said that most likely, 1" up from the hull on the transom(where the screws are placed) most likely is solid fiberglass. Does this make sense? If this is the case, then water would not have had a chance to get into the wood core. None the less, he suggested pulling the tabs off and letting it set over winter to dry out and then put them back on in the spring. He talked about osmosis blistering and other issues that are bad when water gets under the gel coat and fiberglass.
Anyway Lenco also said that putting 5200 in the screw holes AND on the backing plate would be a good idea. This makes sense as once these are on, they should stay there.
Thanks for all the advise!!
#8
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I'd remove the entire tab and see what it looks like under the mounting transom plate. I'd be surprised if they were mounted without the 5200 sealant. I'd think as long as they were you sould be fine as that should have stopped the water from seeping into the transom but its tough to tell. Once you remove the screws slip a Q-tip in the hole and see if it's wet. That would be a simple way to start. As for any damage you could still have moister as the transom is encapsulated wood and that should run down to the bottom where the tabs are bolted in. My guess is it's got the sealant so you should be fine, but none the less the seasons over might as well check it out and correct the issue over the down time.
#9
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The reason I would question the use of 5200 - hard to believe the screws backed off if 5200 was used. But maybe?