DougB

Decent weather setting in and can't wait to be complete with the demolition (1-2 more nights I hope) Then glassing, repairs and reconstructing/redesigning the stringer system, bulkheads etc.

Prepped the fuel tank. There was a little bit of minor corrosion, so before finishing I decided to use some epoxy in those areas.

Coated the bottom with Zero-Rust, which I've used on cars for years. Usually in the wheel wells or anywhere that is susceptible to rust and corrosion.It's thick, durable, and dries pretty fast. Definitely want to be using this outside though. Pretty strong odor.

Anyway bottom of tank is done. New sender kit is here, so will paint the top, install the new sender/seal and pressure test the tank again once it's all together,



Bottom of tank coated.

DougB

Bit of a photo update. Most of the hull is stripped down. The factory hand laid the hull but choppered in the accessories. I ground off a lot of the excess choppered glass that wasn't really doing anything anymore.
Plus it wasn't really tight with resin, almost like straw or grass clippings. Just something that was there not really bonded to anything efficiently. I could tear it .apart by hand in most cases

Added a couple layers of mat where the lift strakes wood was now exposed, After grinding added a layer of mat to promote better bond of everything I add. I had to do it a couple of times.

Leveled the boat, then constructed a guide frame for my stringer construction.

DougB

Now comes the part I like much better than demolition. Putting things back. Hopefully I've learned enough over the years to have things better than they were. Anyway I used a couple of nice straight pieces of cedar to be that frame that supports the stringers. So far so good. it should be quite a bit lighter than the pervious incarnation. The Coosa is pretty easy to work with, other than the ash-like black sawdust.

I tested a small 1" ripping and the stuff is very strong. I've seen videos showing that it will hold screws. I've personally found that is not 100% true. I think it would hold a course-threaded screw with deep threads fairly well. But you cannot over-torque them (ie impact hex driver.) I only have to mount the bolster seats. In theory that should be okay, but I am tempted to embed either PT plywood or a stainless metal plate to support those threads.

Anyway so far so good.

DougB

Dismantled the layout frame and applied the first layer of carbon core laminated to the Coosa board for the main stringers

DougB

Extending the Coosa through the companionway and extending and laminating the carbon core forward.