New Owner - 38ft Scarab - Help me out guys
#11
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Jimi , If your going to take the boat there dont forget to pack some pretty heavy heat when you are on the water --- and keep them handy just in case someone tries to board you and try to take the boat away.. Good luck man --- your going to need it.
Jim
Jim
Last edited by cigboat1; 06-27-2010 at 01:40 PM.
#12
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Now for some things to keep the boat running ..
1. put drive showers on the drives
2. put fresh water flushes on both engines and use them...
3.Mobil 1 oil 15w-50 change the oil before you have the boat shipped --take a supply of oil and filters with you.
4. Racor water sep. fuel filters --metal bowles with drain nuts on the bottom.
5.Spare set of kill switches and disconnects..Take the kill switch covers with you every time you leave the boat along with the keys.
Hope this helps you to have some long lasting fun...
Jim
1. put drive showers on the drives
2. put fresh water flushes on both engines and use them...
3.Mobil 1 oil 15w-50 change the oil before you have the boat shipped --take a supply of oil and filters with you.
4. Racor water sep. fuel filters --metal bowles with drain nuts on the bottom.
5.Spare set of kill switches and disconnects..Take the kill switch covers with you every time you leave the boat along with the keys.
Hope this helps you to have some long lasting fun...
Jim
#13
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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Thanks again Cigboat - thats the kinda info I need
Now for some things to keep the boat running ..
1. put drive showers on the drives
2. put fresh water flushes on both engines and use them...
3.Mobil 1 oil 15w-50 change the oil before you have the boat shipped --take a supply of oil and filters with you.
4. Racor water sep. fuel filters --metal bowles with drain nuts on the bottom.
5.Spare set of kill switches and disconnects..Take the kill switch covers with you every time you leave the boat along with the keys.
Hope this helps you to have some long lasting fun...
Jim
1. put drive showers on the drives
2. put fresh water flushes on both engines and use them...
3.Mobil 1 oil 15w-50 change the oil before you have the boat shipped --take a supply of oil and filters with you.
4. Racor water sep. fuel filters --metal bowles with drain nuts on the bottom.
5.Spare set of kill switches and disconnects..Take the kill switch covers with you every time you leave the boat along with the keys.
Hope this helps you to have some long lasting fun...
Jim
And thanks a lot for the recommendation for the specific brand of fuel/water filter with bleed-off.
The info for the removeable kill switches is on the mark for where I am going.
I understand the fresh water flushes. May I ask if its better to have the closed water system installed to keep the saltwater out of the engines ? If so - is there a popular brand to buy. I have seen stainless pumps advertised that claim to last a long time.
Thanks again for the info - I am on a fast track to get this work done and behind me.
#14
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Do you have the closed cooling systems on the boat now??If you don't its too late to make any difference now if the boat was run in salt water... No matter how well the engines and drives were flushed with fresh water ,your still going to get "salt creep" in the parts and that only makes a difference when you need to repair something.. If the boat was used in fresh water only then it might be wise to go with a closed system ...It is very hard to know where the boat was used unless you know the line of ownership and in many cases that is impossible to find out...
Jim
If you have Merc's use their system to convert.Don't waste your money on the stainless pumps ...Just buy spare impellers and rebuild kits for the pumps and change them out every year, every year,every year..or sooner
Jim
If you have Merc's use their system to convert.Don't waste your money on the stainless pumps ...Just buy spare impellers and rebuild kits for the pumps and change them out every year, every year,every year..or sooner
Last edited by cigboat1; 06-28-2010 at 02:10 PM.
#15
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Do you have the closed cooling systems on the boat now??If you don't its too late to make any difference now if the boat was run in salt water... No matter how well the engines and drives were flushed with fresh water ,your still going to get "salt creep" in the parts and that only makes a difference when you need to repair something.. If the boat was used in fresh water only then it might be wise to go with a closed system ...It is very hard to know where the boat was used unless you know the line of ownership and in many cases that is impossible to find out...
Jim
If you have Merc's use their system to convert.Don't waste your money on the stainless punps ...Just buy spare impellers and rebuild kits for the pumps and change them out every year, every year,every year..or sooner
Jim
If you have Merc's use their system to convert.Don't waste your money on the stainless punps ...Just buy spare impellers and rebuild kits for the pumps and change them out every year, every year,every year..or sooner
that was my next question was the best closed system to install.
I have twin 502 EFI Magnum Merc's - Bravo 1's - stainless gil risers.
The machinist is finishing the rebuilds this week and the mechanic will start to re-assemble them soon. these guys have done great rebuilds on my classic cars. The machinist I use does a great job - a perfectionist and his engines are superior rebuilds. This is the entire reason to have these guys do it. Otherwise i would have pulled the boat into a marine shop.
this boat was run out of Marina Del Rey, Cali in salt water. I was hoping that changing it to a closed system would inhibit further damage. everywhere I read it says stay with a closed system.
I will be running it in salt water also - no lakes in Thailand for this boat to run. I will be pulling it out each time i finish with it and dry store it at a secure storage lot.
I will also like to know about fuel consumption and what props (pitch) to get the best fuel mileage. I will be running long distances down the coasts and between islands. I am not even sure about the distances yet - I know its hundreds of miles for some of the 1 and 2 week trips i intend to take at times. Otherwise i will be running local trips close to my home.
#16
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I would never begin to belittle some one on their motor rebuilding skills but there is a great difference between
automotive engines and boat engines and their life span. Automotive parts do not last very long when put into a marine engine. If it were me I would question what is going back into your engines...
If you feel the need to go with the closed cooling systems go ahead .Will cost you more up front but may save a lot of headaches later.
As for the props that you are running now, it would be better to contact someone like B-Blades or Hydromotive.
As far as gas is concerned don't worry about it ----your going to use a Lot !! Hope gas is Cheaper there than here
Jim
automotive engines and boat engines and their life span. Automotive parts do not last very long when put into a marine engine. If it were me I would question what is going back into your engines...
If you feel the need to go with the closed cooling systems go ahead .Will cost you more up front but may save a lot of headaches later.
As for the props that you are running now, it would be better to contact someone like B-Blades or Hydromotive.
As far as gas is concerned don't worry about it ----your going to use a Lot !! Hope gas is Cheaper there than here
Jim
#17
Registered
I would never begin to belittle some one on their motor rebuilding skills but there is a great difference between
automotive engines and boat engines and their life span. Automotive parts do not last very long when put into a marine engine. If it were me I would question what is going back into your engines...
If you feel the need to go with the closed cooling systems go ahead .Will cost you more up front but may save a lot of headaches later.
As for the props that you are running now, it would be better to contact someone like B-Blades or Hydromotive.
As far as gas is concerned don't worry about it ----your going to use a Lot !! Hope gas is Cheaper there than here
Jim
automotive engines and boat engines and their life span. Automotive parts do not last very long when put into a marine engine. If it were me I would question what is going back into your engines...
If you feel the need to go with the closed cooling systems go ahead .Will cost you more up front but may save a lot of headaches later.
As for the props that you are running now, it would be better to contact someone like B-Blades or Hydromotive.
As far as gas is concerned don't worry about it ----your going to use a Lot !! Hope gas is Cheaper there than here
Jim
Last edited by Scarab3DMC; 06-28-2010 at 02:22 PM.
#19
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Doing ok Jim, The Wife's surgery was three weeks ago tomorrow, she is doing great, like the weight of the world is off her shoulders, The boat is another story, found the root cause last year, but damage was done, pulled the port and hauled it down to WV to the builder.....again
#20
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The other is having the drives checked and not getting everyone to tell me rebuild - rebuild - rebuild. I have worked in the marine industry quite a few years - having performed mechanical work and have worked on ship engines - cooling systems - large steering gear systems - so i have marine experience enough to know a little about a few areas and terminology. Thanks to any of you guys that can throw some topics my way.