Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
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08-10-2004, 10:04 PM
#33
Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
Notice Coupler now in full extended (forward towing, no brakes applied) postion, and angle of chains to allow front/back movement. No, I have not noticed any brake dragging. I have checked coupler movement via tape measure with and without the WD bars in place. I also regularly check my brakes, hubs, and tires with a Laser Pyrometer Gun at every stop when towing. No ill effects (or signifigant heat buildup by dragging brakes).
In picture 3, you can see how I added a second tongue jack, adding much more stability, plus it looks cool. Its also a helluva lot easier to lift the tongue this way, and greatly reduces trailer twist when on the stand. I did have to notch the forward flat I-Beam connecting strip of aluminum on the trailer, which was very easy with a sawzall and cold chisel.
I am very happy with the way it tows. I can definately tell the difference when towing, and even helped with wind gust control when passing 18-wheelers. Best part is I am legal, and it tows great, and still stops just as well as it did before the installation of the WD bars.
In picture 3, you can see how I added a second tongue jack, adding much more stability, plus it looks cool. Its also a helluva lot easier to lift the tongue this way, and greatly reduces trailer twist when on the stand. I did have to notch the forward flat I-Beam connecting strip of aluminum on the trailer, which was very easy with a sawzall and cold chisel.
I am very happy with the way it tows. I can definately tell the difference when towing, and even helped with wind gust control when passing 18-wheelers. Best part is I am legal, and it tows great, and still stops just as well as it did before the installation of the WD bars.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 08-10-2004 at 10:08 PM.
08-10-2004, 10:20 PM
#34
Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
When I arrive at the ramp, I remove the WD bars and stow them. They go back on before the tow home. I also remove them when backing the boat into its spot at home, and install the WD bars when leaving the house, after the boat is out of the yard, and out on the street. I did not think I would use them for local towing, but just the piece of mind knowing I am set up correctly when they are installed is worth the 60 seconds of hook-up time.
08-10-2004, 10:52 PM
#35
Registered
Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
Putnam XDR has the highest wieght carrying rating of any 2" hitch. Have 2" drop solid ball mount and big dia. shank, 1" rise, solid raw heat treated 20K ball on it. Don't forget the big balls 
are available with rise bases to fine tune your hieght. I did, and it is perfect. 
are available with rise bases to fine tune your hieght. I did, and it is perfect.
08-11-2004, 12:55 AM
#37
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Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
http://www.ultrahitch.com/perfect_drop_bar.html
These fit a standard 2" reciever and are rated to 14,000 lbs.
These fit a standard 2" reciever and are rated to 14,000 lbs.
08-11-2004, 01:24 AM
#38
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Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
Do the holes in the frame of the truck from the factory hitch match the holes for the new hitch or did you have to make new ones for mounting the heavier duty hitch?
08-11-2004, 08:17 AM
#39
Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
Bajaboat,
Its the factory Class III hitch still on the truck. Rated for 7k lbs Weight Carrying and rated for 12.5k lbs Weight Distributing.
Your drawbar and your hitch ball can be rated to tow the Moon if you want, but if your hitch on your truck is still the original Class III, you are only legal for what I listed above, or close to it.
The only way to go to a heavier load; Weight Carrying, without going to a Weight Distributing Hitch setup like I have, is upgrade to a Reese Titan V (5), hitch reciever on your truck, with a 2.5 inch drawbar shaft. I was not convinced this was the correct setup for me.
Its the factory Class III hitch still on the truck. Rated for 7k lbs Weight Carrying and rated for 12.5k lbs Weight Distributing.
Your drawbar and your hitch ball can be rated to tow the Moon if you want, but if your hitch on your truck is still the original Class III, you are only legal for what I listed above, or close to it.
The only way to go to a heavier load; Weight Carrying, without going to a Weight Distributing Hitch setup like I have, is upgrade to a Reese Titan V (5), hitch reciever on your truck, with a 2.5 inch drawbar shaft. I was not convinced this was the correct setup for me.
08-11-2004, 02:27 PM
#40
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Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
overkill on the drawbar and ball is just another way to eliminate weak links. Have you seen the discussion about the crosspins, load stress, and the metallurgy(sp) involved in that little part of the program? The XDR is 1500 tongue/15000 lbs. wieght carrying.
Have you seen the "Trailer Trapper"? to prevent couplers coming off for any reason.
Have you seen the "Trailer Trapper"? to prevent couplers coming off for any reason.
08-12-2004, 12:35 PM
#42
Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
Rippem, I completely understand the overkill, and ratings. I am an engineer by nature, and over-engineer a lot of what I do.
I just don't want anyone else to think that because they buy a 20K lb drawbar, and a 30K lb ball, that they can stick it in their 2" Class III reciever, and be safe & legal to tow the Space Shuttle behind their 1500 Chevy pickup with a 4.3L V-6.
I just don't want anyone else to think that because they buy a 20K lb drawbar, and a 30K lb ball, that they can stick it in their 2" Class III reciever, and be safe & legal to tow the Space Shuttle behind their 1500 Chevy pickup with a 4.3L V-6.
08-12-2004, 02:58 PM
#43
Registered
Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
understand completely. With everything else forward up to snuff, I see couplers as the next weakest link. Think about the size of the mechanism and how much material is there...for the amount of work being done. Check out the "trailer trapper", it'll at least keep the tongue on the ball if the mechanism fails.
With everything else forward up to snuff, I see couplers as the next weakest link. Think about the size of the mechanism and how much material is there...for the amount of work being done. Check out the "trailer trapper", it'll at least keep the tongue on the ball if the mechanism fails.
04-29-2005, 08:32 AM
#45
Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
One more update.
I have my Putnam Class-V hitch installed now. It bolted right to the factory holes, and actually tucks up closer to the bumper than the original. I have not towed with it yet, but will be this weekend.
Bill272 also spoke with GM directly about what happens to your tow rating on specifically the 2500 Avalanche when you replace to a Class-V hitch. According to the GM Regional Manager he spoke to, your Weight Carrying rating goes up to the 12K with the Class-V hitch. It does NOT raise the overall tow capacity of the vehicle. Are you going to get that in writing? No. Will it fly in court? Who knows. I am still sticking with the WD hitch (bars) even with a new Class-V Putnam hitch. The WD bars drastically improve towing.
Also check out:
www.equalizerhitch.com
Fully compatible with surge brakes as well.
I have my Putnam Class-V hitch installed now. It bolted right to the factory holes, and actually tucks up closer to the bumper than the original. I have not towed with it yet, but will be this weekend.
Bill272 also spoke with GM directly about what happens to your tow rating on specifically the 2500 Avalanche when you replace to a Class-V hitch. According to the GM Regional Manager he spoke to, your Weight Carrying rating goes up to the 12K with the Class-V hitch. It does NOT raise the overall tow capacity of the vehicle. Are you going to get that in writing? No. Will it fly in court? Who knows. I am still sticking with the WD hitch (bars) even with a new Class-V Putnam hitch. The WD bars drastically improve towing.
Also check out:
www.equalizerhitch.com
Fully compatible with surge brakes as well.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 04-29-2005 at 10:45 AM.
04-29-2005, 09:58 AM
#46
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Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
Brian,
Just to clarify, I was told that adding the Class V hitch raises the weight carrying rating to the 12000# rating of the truck, not the 15000# rating of the hitch. Along with the Putnam XDR I did get a 15K# 2" solid steel ball mount and the 30K# ball.
There's quite a bit of difference in weight between the class V and the factory hitch. I don't like to think of what I was towing with before (6000# ball and mount with an 11-12K# boat and trailer)
Just to clarify, I was told that adding the Class V hitch raises the weight carrying rating to the 12000# rating of the truck, not the 15000# rating of the hitch. Along with the Putnam XDR I did get a 15K# 2" solid steel ball mount and the 30K# ball.
There's quite a bit of difference in weight between the class V and the factory hitch. I don't like to think of what I was towing with before (6000# ball and mount with an 11-12K# boat and trailer)
05-01-2005, 10:02 AM
#49
Charter Member
Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
Maybe I need to install one of these WD hitches. But luckly I can just put taller axle snubbers on to bottom out on the frame sooner to keep it level.
Pulls like a champ, tons of power down hill, tons of braking going uphill, steering is easiest ever, front tires turn 1/2 the speed as the rear tires too!
Pulls like a champ, tons of power down hill, tons of braking going uphill, steering is easiest ever, front tires turn 1/2 the speed as the rear tires too!
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 12-02-2011 at 11:15 AM.
05-01-2006, 06:42 PM
#51
Re: Big and Heavy (hitch) Balls
No longer towing with the Avalanche. I have a 1-ton Dually now. I am going to keep the WD hitch/setup/bars, but also bought and setup these today:
New Putnam solid steel drawbar--15K lbs:
http://www.putnamhitch.com/products_mounts.html#solid
And upgraded to a new black steel ball--30K lbs:
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=B114
New Putnam solid steel drawbar--15K lbs:
http://www.putnamhitch.com/products_mounts.html#solid
And upgraded to a new black steel ball--30K lbs:
http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=B114
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