Taboma

Ron, After studying your photo of your hatch, is your hatch solid fiberglass with a lip at the edges as it appears? Just trying to imagine using those cool latches on my hatch. It is approx. 1" thick composite honeycomb cell composite. There would not me a lot of meat to attach to without engaging some sort of recessed backing plate. The skins are very thin. I could attach them with 5200 from the top?? Your thoughts after dealing with them?

LAriverratt

no pins!!!! that's nice and clean.

Double Rigged

iTrader: (1)

Yes my hatch had a small lip and is made of two very thin layers with honeycomb in the middle. The threads made it all the way to flush with the inside but would not come through for the ring to screw on. I cut the hole exact and tight so I could thread the piece in by turn it. I also used Silicon Clear sealer to fill voids in hole before screwing in and also on face of the push pin where it touches outside of the hatch. Once the silicon dried and with the threaded insert it was very solid and will not come easily. I did not want to use 5200 as in the event of a failure it would be a be-ach to get it out.

When it is locked the pin is being pulled down so no real issues sealing it in.

speicher lane

I realize that you haven't run with the new latches in place but in your research and observations - would these latches/pins be a good replacement for engine hatches on boats that run in heavy seas or would you recommend staying with the traditional "hair" pin design?

On a side note, Ron - I would love to see what you could do with a 388 as a blank canvas with a very healthy budget, just sayin'!

Double Rigged

iTrader: (1)

Double Rigged

iTrader: (1)

mlb75

Great looking truck congrats.

tom kennedy

Zero Patience

Double Rigged

iTrader: (1)

HA HA! BTW may want to check the spacing on those tywraps