New Guy with Questions
#51
Registered
Re: New Guy with Questions
Why did you have to drop the pan to pull the cam?
I pulled the cam on a SBC in a 18 Donzi this summer w/o pulling the motor. I cut a little hole in the back seat bulkhead but it was easier then pulling the motor.
I agree that a valve job is a good idea, and certainly doing it "right" but he shouldn't need to pull the heads to swap a cam or swap the springs out. It helps to order the correct diameter springs the first time though.
If You can get a already built, proven 600 hp motor that won't kill your drive for under $6K it will be much more fun then building your own.
Evan
I pulled the cam on a SBC in a 18 Donzi this summer w/o pulling the motor. I cut a little hole in the back seat bulkhead but it was easier then pulling the motor.
I agree that a valve job is a good idea, and certainly doing it "right" but he shouldn't need to pull the heads to swap a cam or swap the springs out. It helps to order the correct diameter springs the first time though.
If You can get a already built, proven 600 hp motor that won't kill your drive for under $6K it will be much more fun then building your own.
Evan
Originally Posted by Pat McPherson
I did change the cam in my boat last year but it's not easy.
You have to drop the oil pan. With a cam change comes new valve springs and a valve job so you'll be pulling the heads too.
If your 750 cfm Carter carb is working well leave it unless you change the cam. If you are having problems with starting, some people do with them, buy a 800cfm double pumper that will work with mods up to 500HP down the road.
The intake you have is a good one, so don't change it unless your going to build a 5600rpm screamer. In that case you will need a single plan...
Have Fun!
You have to drop the oil pan. With a cam change comes new valve springs and a valve job so you'll be pulling the heads too.
If your 750 cfm Carter carb is working well leave it unless you change the cam. If you are having problems with starting, some people do with them, buy a 800cfm double pumper that will work with mods up to 500HP down the road.
The intake you have is a good one, so don't change it unless your going to build a 5600rpm screamer. In that case you will need a single plan...
Have Fun!
#52
VIP Member
VIP Member
Re: New Guy with Questions
Originally Posted by Dregsz
Why did you have to drop the pan to pull the cam?
I pulled the cam on a SBC in a 18 Donzi this summer w/o pulling the motor. I cut a little hole in the back seat bulkhead but it was easier then pulling the motor.
I agree that a valve job is a good idea, and certainly doing it "right" but he shouldn't need to pull the heads to swap a cam or swap the springs out. It helps to order the correct diameter springs the first time though.
If You can get a already built, proven 600 hp motor that won't kill your drive for under $6K it will be much more fun then building your own.
Evan
I pulled the cam on a SBC in a 18 Donzi this summer w/o pulling the motor. I cut a little hole in the back seat bulkhead but it was easier then pulling the motor.
I agree that a valve job is a good idea, and certainly doing it "right" but he shouldn't need to pull the heads to swap a cam or swap the springs out. It helps to order the correct diameter springs the first time though.
If You can get a already built, proven 600 hp motor that won't kill your drive for under $6K it will be much more fun then building your own.
Evan
It is vary possible to change the cam with the engine in the boat. If the engine turns out to be a Gen VI BBC with a cast aluminum timing chain cover, the pan will have to be dropped to the point it is hanging from the back 2-4 bolts. If the engine is a Gen V, then the timing cover is sheet metal and will be a little more forgiving, but the pan still will need to be dropped some to get the cover off. Removing the back seat on a 24' Super gives great access to the engine, at least on and I/O model...
__________________
Patrick
Patrick
#53
Registered
Re: New Guy with Questions
Originally Posted by Pat McPherson
Razor, I did a basically stock rebuild on my 502 last winter for about $2,000.
This included the following from a local machine shop/builder:
-clean, hone, install new freeze plugs, and cam bearing in the block $200.
-the heads were cleaned, mag'd, milled 0.010, bowl ported, valve job, new springs, retainers, locks, and assembled $800.
Then I bought new rings, bearings, a Merc gasket set ($450), and an oil pump for about $900 total. Throw in and $100 misc. I bolted it together myself...
Now for another $1200, the engine builder would have assembled the entire engine and given me a 1 yr warranty on the long block, but what fun would that have been...
Razor, I believe you could do a vary nice build up on your engine for between $3,000 and $4000. If you want to risk it and leave the bottom alone then $1500 in parts can give her a little more kick.
Anther 50HP will give you +4 to 5mph, another 100HP +7 to 8mph.
As far as racing, P-5 has a 70mph limit, but I think the boat is too small. Ask fasteddie...
This included the following from a local machine shop/builder:
-clean, hone, install new freeze plugs, and cam bearing in the block $200.
-the heads were cleaned, mag'd, milled 0.010, bowl ported, valve job, new springs, retainers, locks, and assembled $800.
Then I bought new rings, bearings, a Merc gasket set ($450), and an oil pump for about $900 total. Throw in and $100 misc. I bolted it together myself...
Now for another $1200, the engine builder would have assembled the entire engine and given me a 1 yr warranty on the long block, but what fun would that have been...
Razor, I believe you could do a vary nice build up on your engine for between $3,000 and $4000. If you want to risk it and leave the bottom alone then $1500 in parts can give her a little more kick.
Anther 50HP will give you +4 to 5mph, another 100HP +7 to 8mph.
As far as racing, P-5 has a 70mph limit, but I think the boat is too small. Ask fasteddie...
I think you could have saved about $300 on a set of Felpro Gaskets, It is still a Chevy motor.
Melling oil pump and screen runs about $45
A flat tappet cam, and springs will run under $300
assuming you can use the same lifters, locks and retainers.
A hyraulic roller cam, lifters, springs, locks and retainers is closer to a grand.
My Superboat is an OB, so assuming you have access, you can do the cam and spring swap in the boat.
This all sounds pretty straight forward.
pulling a motor is easier then swapping a cam, even if is seems like a more daunting task.
If you haven't done it before, get a member off the board in your area to come wrench with you.
Good Luck
Evan
#54
Registered
Re: New Guy with Questions
Originally Posted by Pat McPherson
Evan,
It is vary possible to change the cam with the engine in the boat. If the engine turns out to be a Gen VI BBC with a cast aluminum timing chain cover, the pan will have to be dropped to the point it is hanging from the back 2-4 bolts. If the engine is a Gen V, then the timing cover is sheet metal and will be a little more forgiving, but the pan still will need to be dropped some to get the cover off. Removing the back seat on a 24' Super gives great access to the engine, at least on and I/O model...
It is vary possible to change the cam with the engine in the boat. If the engine turns out to be a Gen VI BBC with a cast aluminum timing chain cover, the pan will have to be dropped to the point it is hanging from the back 2-4 bolts. If the engine is a Gen V, then the timing cover is sheet metal and will be a little more forgiving, but the pan still will need to be dropped some to get the cover off. Removing the back seat on a 24' Super gives great access to the engine, at least on and I/O model...
My experience is with Chevy Mark IV motors and Dart blocks which are essentially Mark IVs
#55
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Re: New Guy with Questions
Thanks again for the Info. From all the reading I have done, now I know what I would like to do for power. Although, I probably will not touch it till the end of next season. I need to upgrade my steering system first.
#56
Driver-441
Racer
Re: New Guy with Questions
Originally Posted by RazorsEdge
Hello, I recently purchased a 1995 Superboat 24. It has a 454mag Bravo 1 with about 200 hours on it. I was wondering what could be done to pick up some speed without loosing my low and midrange. It already has K-planes and a Stainless Marine exhaust. Currently running either a 24" Bravo or a 25" Mach. I was thinking of leaving the cam, adding some Edelbrock Performer RPM Oval port Heads, Performer RPM Air Gap Intake, Demon Carb and doing some ignition work. The boat will be run in fresh water, Great Lakes. Any suggestions you could provide would be great.
Thanks,
Thanks,
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