t500hps

I believe I need to bleed the brakes lines on this trailer, as the summer has come the wheels want to lock up when I try to back up.
Trailer is an 2005 tri-with S.S. surge disc brakes on front 2 6K lbs axles. Is there a bleed valve at the wheels? What's the best way to "work" the cylinder to force fluid through the brake lines? I topped off the fluid a month ago (didn't need much) but don't seem to be losing any.

Sean H

make sure you have voltage when you back up to kick off the surge brakes.. otherwise you will be just pushing the trailer...

Ted G

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, you may not have power to the lock out solenoid. It should energize with your reverse lights.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Problem is not air in the lines, it's in your method of backing up with the cheap $30 backup solenoid you have.
Disc brakes will lock up just as much in reverse as in forward, unlike drum brakes that can be overcome in reverse. ALL trailer brake pressure HAS to be relieved.

When needing to back up with your setup:
roll forward just enough to extend the surge coupler releasing the trailer brakes, then w/o hitting the brakes, put in reverse. This locks out the trailer brakes so no trailer line pressure will be applied.
By coming to a stop, the trailer brakes are applied and present until you take off. By placing truck in reverse without rolliing forward, you are simply locking that line pressure in the trailer, hence won't back up even though you have a back up solinoid.
The best cure is to replace the solenoid you have with the pressure relieving one. It has a separate line that will bleed off any line pressure back into the master cyl. when energized, allowing the the trailer to be put in reverse even when backing up hills. This deluxe model should be the standard on all disc brake trailers. After all, it is only $15 more than the cheaper one. Can be bought from Champion trailer.com for around $45???

You can use a jumper wire if you have need to reposition a few times while backing uphill/driveway using your parking lites.
Been there, done that.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

http://www.championtrailers.com/REVE...OID_VALVES.HTM


read line 8 of the 1st solenoid description. Basically the same condition as placing in reverse right from a stopped position.

The 2nd solenoid is my recommendation

More:
http://www.championtrailers.com/Solenoid%20Valves.pdf

Outdrive1

I've got that pressure relieving solenoid and it works great. I can back my boat uphill, anywhere. Have seen many of my friends fight with their trailers trying to back into places.

rich allen

Been there done that. Finally got so fed up with hoping solenoids work when you needed them most, I installed a small ball valve in line behind the actuator. Make sure you pull forward to release any pressure in line, then just close valve before backing up. Cheap insurance when you need to back up" NOW". I Still use a solenoid, but the valve is there, just in case, and it has saved me already a couple of times.

Viper31

I with Rich, put a ball valve in there. Those freakin solenoid valves can be a ***** when they break. The c-clamp on the coupler method is no fun either.

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index....categoryID=155

t500hps

Ready to order the replacement solenoid, but realized I don't have the return port machined into the master cylinder as noted on the Champion site. Not sure I'm willing to drill a hole and attempt to "machine" a 1/8 hole in it either. Will test the lock-out wire to make sure it's getting power when engaged. Is there a bit/ tap set that I should use to drill this hole?


.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

It's just a 1/16 or 1/8" NPT pipe tap. Really not hard to do, just gotta catch the chips. It's cast iron, so it will be more of a powder than chips. I removed mine and drilled it just to be safe. Yours looks like it could be done on the trailer. Remove all the brake fluid, tape over the bottom holes, then drill away and clean thoroghly when done before removing the tape. Add some fluid and bleed with the line disconnected just to be sure. I have seen someone that has a cap that has the tube mounted to it instead of tapped into the master cyl. Don't recall who though. That would be the easiest. Not under pressure, just don't want it to leak.

Or just do the pull forward before going into reverse thing. It just won't work if the trailer is pushing on your truck. I just like the press. relieving setup for those times when you don't have time to screw around with clamps, jumper wires or the ball valve, like when the big rig is heading your way and you gotta back up NOW!