sleek1

I was wondering if anyone that changed to EOH had any pics of their new set up? Specifically module and battery placement/fabrication. Also wondering what is entailed in changing over from a surge coupler to a solid(?) coupler? I did a search but found nothing. Also what components work best together? I've seen some people with incompatible controllers and brake modules. I have a 2001 F250 with a Rocket (Miami) Aluminum trailer and 35' boat.

c_deezy

iTrader: (1)

From what I've read you just remove the surge master cylinder, plumb the line to the EOH master cylinder and then you can weld the surge coupler so it is solid.

I myself will probably be doing this as well over the winter on a trailer for a Top Gun. The surge breaks don't work too bad slowing that big boy down but would love to have EOH. And for the overall cost its worth every penny.

These are what I plan to go with:

http://www.trailerpart.com/brakerite.htm

http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/...-maxbrake.aspx

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

I just went thru the change over on my Eagle trailer. Went with the Brakerite system. I removed the guts of the surge coupler and welded the hitch solid. Plugged all the bolt holes with weld and ground smooth. Welded a steel plate on top where the rollers were to give it a smooth look. Also welded a plate on the top of the trailer where the fluid fill was for an even smoother look, plus more footing for winching. Just picked the trailer up from a paint shop last week to have the tounge repainted, so no pics of final yet. But looks great!!
Also towing with a '03 250 SD. I HIGHLY recommend the Maxbrake controller. Puts the other controllers to shame.

CheckedOut

I just did this on my eagle trailer a couple months ago. I bought a seven way plug and 6 foot harness for $35 at a local trailer shop and bought a carslisle hydrastar HBA-10 1000 PSI actuator for $524 and a HBA-BA breakaway kit for $51 from Pre-Pro Assembly Inc. @ 916-358-5870. I couldnt beat these prices anywhere so you may give them a shout.

Also, I would contact your trailer manufacturer and check with them on the appropriate pressure for your brakes. When I called eagle they said that someone tried the 1600 psi unit and cracked the calipers so they recommended the 1000 psi unit with my brakes.

The carslisle instructions were pretty decent so I followed them and soldered and heat shrunk everything. I ended up using a 1/4" plate welded onto the bottom of the trailer to mount the hydralic unit and i bolted the battery directly to the frame. I finished up everything with looming and also welded the main hitch up to the frame as recommended.

I lucked out on the monthing location in that the stock brake line was in the perfect place to directly connect it to the brake controller where I welded the mounting plate and was the right 1/4" brake line fitting that the brake actuator required.

One other thing: I was told that there was no need to bleed the brakes with the hydralic controller. THIS WAS NOT TRUE. you will need to bleed through each wheel starting with the highest and farthest away.

Good luck and hope this helps!

CheckedOut

BTW, I use the Tekonsha P3 controller and have to say it's the ****. Not cheap, but has it all!

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

The breakaway switch is suppose to be located so that it will pivot incase of a break away. By allowing it to pivot, the plugger will pull out straight, otherwise a sidewwise pull could simply break off the plastic plunger ring and not activate the switch. I didn't want the breakaway switch mounted where it would meet those requirements, so I mounted it lower and welded a ring forward of the switch so that any pull of the cable would be a straight line pull of the plunger out of the switch. Much cleaner and out of the way

3rd pic is of all the workings I removed.

The trailer is so much quieter now, No clunking. The MaxBrake controller gives you brakes every time you hit the brake peddle. Doesn't need your trucks braking resistance to create a momentum loss to activate the standard controllers, plus you have trailer brakes while backing down the ramp. It is $350, but well worth it.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Never heard of no need to bleed since you are opening the brake lines. However, bleeding is so easy now. Just activate teh pump by removing the breakaway plunger and bleed the lines till your heart is content. NO more pump, pump, hold, pump, pump, hold, etc. (Wifey is happy about that. )

Last pic. Made a plate that bolts to the trailer frames undeside and extends out to mount the pump on.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Rippem just did this too:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...d.php?t=192374

Chart

So, the EOH pump you got was only $350, or did I misunderstand? Mine was a whole lot more than that, but it's a Dexter brand EOH pump, and that was a couple of years ago.

Were your old surge insides worn out, or you just wanted the improvement?

I've got an old boat trailer that is about to be converted to a utility trailer down on the farm. I was going to rebuild the tired Model 20 surge coupler parts, but you've got me thinking of converting to EOH. The problem in this case is the vast number of trucks that might pull the trailer. Can't count on them having controllers. Oh, well, more to think about.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

The Maxbrake controller itself was $350. Pricey, but once you use it, you'll never go back.

Trailer is only 5 yrs old and is only towed twice a yr. Nothing wrong with original setup, I just wanted a better system.

I agree you are very limited to tow vehicles now with the EOH setup. Not only does the truck have to have a controller, it has to be compatible, and most aren't.