Trailer tires
#21
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I went with Maxxis load range E pulled to cumberland OSS race few days back NO problems . Also bought road hazard at Discount Tire , Ill up date this thread as milage progreses. Thanks for all the input.
#22
I could only get load rance "C" due to tire size. However, I expect good results. I also purchased the same coverage from the same place. I have a 300 mile pull this weekend. The start of the 2009 Offshore power boat races in Ocean City Maryland. I'll post after the pull.
#23
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I just installed six new Maxxis tires on my trailer. 205 75 15's on a Hi Tech Marine trailer for my Sunsation 23ss. I have done as lot of reserach on them and I have a three hundred mile pull this weekend. If you want info on the tires I have some. These are tires that RV's use a lot. Try RV.net for additionall info.
#24
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Too many trailers were built just on the edge of the maximum load carrying capacity it was to carry. There is no service factor and they eat tires.
I have trailered over 80K miles with the last two boats I have owned with Myco brand trailers and they build them right to be able to carry more than what the boat weighs.
I am happy to report that I got 40K miles out of the original Goodyear Marathons (235-85R16 Load Range "E") before the first tire seperated. I was lucky enough to catch it before it actually failed and knew it was time to change them all out for new. I went back with the same tire.
My boat and trailer combined with a full load of fuel and gear weighs in at 12,745 lbs and the triple axles trailer has a capacity of 18k lbs. That gives me a good service factor or cushion which keeps everything from being maxed out all the time.
Tire Tips:
You MUST maintain proper tire pressure on a trailer no exception.
If you don't have one you should invest in a simple non-contact Infrared Thermometer. I keep one in the drivers door compartment and everytime we tow a long didstance and stop at a rest area or for fuel I shoot the trailer tires and the truck tires to make sure they are good and I don't have one that is starting to fail. What I mean by shooting the tire is simply pointing the laser at them and seeing what the temperature is on the side wall of the tire. If you have a tire that is hotter than the others by 15 degrees or more you are wish to go ahead and pull it off while at a safe location because it will blow.
Note that you are looking for consistency of tire temps on one side of the trailer only. The tire temps can vary from side to side because one side will be shaded and the other will have direct sunlinght. In the winter months temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees are normal and in August I can see temps of 110 degrees on the shaded side and 120 degrees on the side in the direct sunlight. Again what you are looking for is consistency of all the tires on the same side.
You can pick these up at a lot of places now and I also stock and sell the Timken brand so if interested drop me a line and I'll ship you one. They have a 1000 uses and really handy.
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products...s/default.aspx
Happy Towing
I have trailered over 80K miles with the last two boats I have owned with Myco brand trailers and they build them right to be able to carry more than what the boat weighs.
I am happy to report that I got 40K miles out of the original Goodyear Marathons (235-85R16 Load Range "E") before the first tire seperated. I was lucky enough to catch it before it actually failed and knew it was time to change them all out for new. I went back with the same tire.
My boat and trailer combined with a full load of fuel and gear weighs in at 12,745 lbs and the triple axles trailer has a capacity of 18k lbs. That gives me a good service factor or cushion which keeps everything from being maxed out all the time.
Tire Tips:
You MUST maintain proper tire pressure on a trailer no exception.
If you don't have one you should invest in a simple non-contact Infrared Thermometer. I keep one in the drivers door compartment and everytime we tow a long didstance and stop at a rest area or for fuel I shoot the trailer tires and the truck tires to make sure they are good and I don't have one that is starting to fail. What I mean by shooting the tire is simply pointing the laser at them and seeing what the temperature is on the side wall of the tire. If you have a tire that is hotter than the others by 15 degrees or more you are wish to go ahead and pull it off while at a safe location because it will blow.
Note that you are looking for consistency of tire temps on one side of the trailer only. The tire temps can vary from side to side because one side will be shaded and the other will have direct sunlinght. In the winter months temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees are normal and in August I can see temps of 110 degrees on the shaded side and 120 degrees on the side in the direct sunlight. Again what you are looking for is consistency of all the tires on the same side.
You can pick these up at a lot of places now and I also stock and sell the Timken brand so if interested drop me a line and I'll ship you one. They have a 1000 uses and really handy.
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products...s/default.aspx
Happy Towing
Last edited by Dock Holiday; 06-04-2009 at 08:15 AM.
#26
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I run BF Goodrich extra miler w/f 9.50 x 16.50 10 ply load range E, they are getting old, tread is like new but just starting to crack. Should I stay with the same or change?
#27
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On the axle subject ... yes it seems most trailers were built with 5k axles right on the edge of capacity. My torsion type axle experience has been that they give out after time and the fenders rub the tires. I quess the rubber flattens out and it looses ride hieght . Had that problem with a couple sea doo's on a single axle dexter trailer. Have you had that experience yet ? Boats are much heavier seems like it would happen sooner.With spring axles seems like 30 yrs later there still about the same . What brands of temp guns are best for the money ? what should I expect to pay? Thanks
#28
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These are 8 lug wheels on 6K axles
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I have been using a Infrared Thermometer for years. As Dock said, I look for consistency in the temp on each side. I also shoot the hubs on each wheel.
I think I paid $40 - $50 for my Raytek minitemp which is very small and fits in the door storage compartment.
I have used it for all sorts of things like checking for missing insulation in walls, air leaks arouind outlets.
I think I paid $40 - $50 for my Raytek minitemp which is very small and fits in the door storage compartment.
I have used it for all sorts of things like checking for missing insulation in walls, air leaks arouind outlets.
#30
I have been using a Infrared Thermometer for years. As Dock said, I look for consistency in the temp on each side. I also shoot the hubs on each wheel.
I think I paid $40 - $50 for my Raytek minitemp which is very small and fits in the door storage compartment.
I have used it for all sorts of things like checking for missing insulation in walls, air leaks arouind outlets.
I think I paid $40 - $50 for my Raytek minitemp which is very small and fits in the door storage compartment.
I have used it for all sorts of things like checking for missing insulation in walls, air leaks arouind outlets.