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Old 07-02-2009, 07:10 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by gofastkyle View Post
The fords use a sterling 10.5 rear end, that uses a crush sleeve. Once a sleeve has ben tightened it should not be re-used. Unfortunately to replace a crush sleeve both axles and the dif have to be removed. When removing the dif be careful to keep all of the shims in order to reinstall later. It's not hard to do, but is time consuming.
???


Drop the drive shaft, remove the yoke, r&r seal, polish the yoke with a little emory cloth, put it back together! Add gear oil.
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:26 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Beak Boater View Post
F350 4X4, my rear pinion seal started leaking. Got the same type of estimate as you did. Had a local dealer do it. There are several different rearends they used. They have to go by the tag on the differential, to determine what model it is, and whats envolved.
They talked about the tag and told me how to read it, I do have the 10.5 rear end. I also saw a tag that said to only use a certain weight of synthetic oil only.
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:31 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by johnny g View Post
???


Drop the drive shaft, remove the yoke, r&r seal, polish the yoke with a little emory cloth, put it back together! Add gear oil.
This is what my brother keeps telling me, (he builds alot of drag cars), thats why I cant understand the price being so high?
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:48 PM   #14
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Use a dial indicator torque torque wrench on the nut to check the preload before you pull it apart. Pull it apart and just match the preload torque on reassembly everything should be good, rears are all about proper preload.
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Old 07-03-2009, 02:09 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofastkyle View Post
The fords use a sterling 10.5 rear end, that uses a crush sleeve. Once a sleeve has ben tightened it should not be re-used. Unfortunately to replace a crush sleeve both axles and the dif have to be removed. When removing the dif be careful to keep all of the shims in order to reinstall later. It's not hard to do, but is time consuming.
Quote:
Originally Posted by baja bailey View Post
This is what my brother keeps telling me, (he builds alot of drag cars), thats why I cant understand the price being so high?

Gofastkyle answered why. If the axle uses a crush collar you have to install a new one after you take the pre-load off it. You could take the chance and tighten the pinion nut to get back to the initial pre-load, but I would suspect that would then pull the pinion away from the ring gear and screw up you gear pattern and backlash.
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:01 PM   #16
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Thanks for the replies, the dealer told me today if I have them do it they would need it for a few hours.
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Old 07-04-2009, 07:56 PM   #17
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???


Drop the drive shaft, remove the yoke, r&r seal, polish the yoke with a little emory cloth, put it back together! Add gear oil.
You could do that, your $200.00 dollar fix will cost you $800.00 later. $200.00 is the cost of a moderate bar tab. Stay home one Saturday nite and have it fixed right. The dealers work will come with a warranty.
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:04 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by gofastkyle View Post
You could do that, your $200.00 dollar fix will cost you $800.00 later. $200.00 is the cost of a moderate bar tab. Stay home one Saturday nite and have it fixed right. The dealers work will come with a warranty.
I think I am leaning toward letting the dealer do it.
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:07 PM   #19
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Smart, he has to give you a warranty too.

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Old 07-08-2009, 08:23 PM   #20
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Ended up letting the dealer fix it, they quoted $180 but ended up charging me $147. Thanks for the replies..
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