What's better than carpet on trailer boards?

[Sydwayz]

Originally Posted by marylandmark

I put bunkaps on my lift- easier to get on//off at low tide since they slide when wet.

Resistance when dry? More than carpet IMHO... Try running your hand across your car tire- won't make it 2 inches...

A fixed lift is a lot different than a trailer; and that application actually makes a lot of sense.

Remember your car tire is made of rubber, not plastic.

[laszlo01]

Originally Posted by Sydwayz

I've found that no one installs the carpet on the bunks as well as I do. That's probably because I am slow and anal retentive with my work.

I've redone all four of my trailers and the carpet has held up remarkably well. I didn't like the carpet that any of them came with either. I use the ribbed indoor/outdoor carpet available from Home Depot/Lowes with SS staples and some carpet adhesive on the long flat side of the bunks to keep the carpet from bunching.

I wouldn't use the plastic runner stuff. It's too easy for these boats to come off the trailers. The plastic runners just make it even worse.

I will attest to brians work, i bought his old trailer and yes he is as anal as they come, but does nice work, stick with the outdoor carpet and you should be good to go.

[pookie]

Originally Posted by Sydwayz

I don't coat the whole board. In the case of a 2x6; I coat about 70% of the flat side of the board.

My Myco was 4 seasons old when I got it, and the wood was JUNK. I mean it was falling apart; all splintered up and cracked. I started from scratch (beginning of this season) with all new 2x6 PT Grade A Pine. I consulted a buddy and OSO member who owns a Cypress mill, and he said just use PT pine.

IMHO and experience, leaving the bottom/back side of the wood/board/bunk open is the most important factor to allow for drying. My Myco had black carpet over 80% of the board, and exposed wood was then coated with black paint for looks. I did NOT repaint the back of my boards when I redid everything.

See this thread on SOS:
http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forum...arpeting+bunks

I replaced a broken bunk board and carpet and when I called MYCO they said to use plain rather than pressure treated pine because it is softer and would mold to the hull better. I have used the trailer several seasons and it still looks perfect. I have a 47 Fountain so it is a heavy boat and the bunk was in the rear, holding a lot of the weight. I also launch a lot in shallower ramps and use a small amount of dish soap for lubricant before backing the trailer in which makes a huge difference if you can't go all the way in with the trailer.

[Sydwayz]

Originally Posted by pookie

I replaced a broken bunk board and carpet and when I called MYCO they said to use plain rather than pressure treated pine because it is softer and would mold to the hull better. I have used the trailer several seasons and it still looks perfect. I have a 47 Fountain so it is a heavy boat and the bunk was in the rear, holding a lot of the weight. I also launch a lot in shallower ramps and use a small amount of dish soap for lubricant before backing the trailer in which makes a huge difference if you can't go all the way in with the trailer.

Fountain owners are the only ones who have to worry about soft wood. (just kidding)

[marylandmark]

Originally Posted by Sydwayz

Remember your car tire is made of rubber, not plastic.

• Constructed of a flexible white vinyl that won't scuff or scratch your boat’s hull while cushioning it on your bunks!

I thought they were rubber but guess not. I put them on about 2 years ago when I upgraded from my 04 Concept 30 to my 07 Concept 326. I needed to put the bunks closer together but did these instead to get the extra clearance I needed plus the slip and slide for low tides.

[Catmando]

Originally Posted by Sydwayz

Fountain owners are the only ones who have to worry about soft wood. (just kidding)

p:

[CcanDo]

Has anyone tried remnants from the carpet store ? Heaviest plush, bonded, mildew protected they have, some gets up to 100 oz. The indoor- outdoor is usually pretty light.

[CcanDo]

Originally Posted by Sydwayz

I don't coat the whole board. In the case of a 2x6; I coat about 70% of the flat side of the board.

My Myco was 4 seasons old when I got it, and the wood was JUNK. I mean it was falling apart; all splintered up and cracked. I started from scratch (beginning of this season) with all new 2x6 PT Grade A Pine. I consulted a buddy and OSO member who owns a Cypress mill, and he said just use PT pine.

IMHO and experience, leaving the bottom/back side of the wood/board/bunk open is the most important factor to allow for drying. My Myco had black carpet over 80% of the board, and exposed wood was then coated with black paint for looks. I did NOT repaint the back of my boards when I redid everything.

See this thread on SOS:
http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forum...arpeting+bunks

Is the Pine, Southern Yellow or Lodge Pole....Southern Yellow warps...Lodge Pole doesn't, but not as strong...How about Douglas Fir, strong and doesn't warp, #2 or better, minimum knots (soak w/Thompson water seal)...or, Cypress, White or Red, but heavy.

[gofastkyle]

On some of myco's commercial apps and govt stuff they have used a white vinyl wrap with a rubber cushion. I had it on a trailer and it worked great!

[Sydwayz]

Originally Posted by CcanDo

Is the Pine, Southern Yellow or Lodge Pole....Southern Yellow warps...Lodge Pole doesn't, but not as strong...How about Douglas Fir, strong and doesn't warp, #2 or better, minimum knots (soak w/Thompson water seal)...or, Cypress, White or Red, but heavy.

It was Lowes Pine. Good question, and I'm not sure of the exact tree/pine type.