What's better than carpet on trailer boards?
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10-23-2009, 11:19 AM
#12
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I've found that no one installs the carpet on the bunks as well as I do. That's probably because I am slow and anal retentive with my work.
I've redone all four of my trailers and the carpet has held up remarkably well. I didn't like the carpet that any of them came with either. I use the ribbed indoor/outdoor carpet available from Home Depot/Lowes with SS staples and some carpet adhesive on the long flat side of the bunks to keep the carpet from bunching.
I wouldn't use the plastic runner stuff. It's too easy for these boats to come off the trailers. The plastic runners just make it even worse.
I've redone all four of my trailers and the carpet has held up remarkably well. I didn't like the carpet that any of them came with either. I use the ribbed indoor/outdoor carpet available from Home Depot/Lowes with SS staples and some carpet adhesive on the long flat side of the bunks to keep the carpet from bunching.
I wouldn't use the plastic runner stuff. It's too easy for these boats to come off the trailers. The plastic runners just make it even worse.
I will attest to brians work, i bought his old trailer and yes he is as anal as they come, but does nice work, stick with the outdoor carpet and you should be good to go.
10-23-2009, 11:33 AM
#13
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I don't coat the whole board. In the case of a 2x6; I coat about 70% of the flat side of the board.
My Myco was 4 seasons old when I got it, and the wood was JUNK. I mean it was falling apart; all splintered up and cracked. I started from scratch (beginning of this season) with all new 2x6 PT Grade A Pine. I consulted a buddy and OSO member who owns a Cypress mill, and he said just use PT pine.
IMHO and experience, leaving the bottom/back side of the wood/board/bunk open is the most important factor to allow for drying. My Myco had black carpet over 80% of the board, and exposed wood was then coated with black paint for looks. I did NOT repaint the back of my boards when I redid everything.
See this thread on SOS:
http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forum...arpeting+bunks
My Myco was 4 seasons old when I got it, and the wood was JUNK. I mean it was falling apart; all splintered up and cracked. I started from scratch (beginning of this season) with all new 2x6 PT Grade A Pine. I consulted a buddy and OSO member who owns a Cypress mill, and he said just use PT pine.
IMHO and experience, leaving the bottom/back side of the wood/board/bunk open is the most important factor to allow for drying. My Myco had black carpet over 80% of the board, and exposed wood was then coated with black paint for looks. I did NOT repaint the back of my boards when I redid everything.
See this thread on SOS:
http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forum...arpeting+bunks
10-23-2009, 12:14 PM
#14
I replaced a broken bunk board and carpet and when I called MYCO they said to use plain rather than pressure treated pine because it is softer and would mold to the hull better. I have used the trailer several seasons and it still looks perfect. I have a 47 Fountain so it is a heavy boat and the bunk was in the rear, holding a lot of the weight. I also launch a lot in shallower ramps and use a small amount of dish soap for lubricant before backing the trailer in which makes a huge difference if you can't go all the way in with the trailer.
(just kidding)
10-23-2009, 01:58 PM
#15
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• Constructed of a flexible white vinyl that won't scuff or scratch your boat’s hull while cushioning it on your bunks!
I thought they were rubber but guess not. I put them on about 2 years ago when I upgraded from my 04 Concept 30 to my 07 Concept 326. I needed to put the bunks closer together but did these instead to get the extra clearance I needed plus the slip and slide for low tides.
p:
10-24-2009, 08:22 AM
#17
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Has anyone tried remnants from the carpet store ? Heaviest plush, bonded, mildew protected they have, some gets up to 100 oz. The indoor- outdoor is usually pretty light.
10-24-2009, 08:39 AM
#18
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I don't coat the whole board. In the case of a 2x6; I coat about 70% of the flat side of the board.
My Myco was 4 seasons old when I got it, and the wood was JUNK. I mean it was falling apart; all splintered up and cracked. I started from scratch (beginning of this season) with all new 2x6 PT Grade A Pine. I consulted a buddy and OSO member who owns a Cypress mill, and he said just use PT pine.
IMHO and experience, leaving the bottom/back side of the wood/board/bunk open is the most important factor to allow for drying. My Myco had black carpet over 80% of the board, and exposed wood was then coated with black paint for looks. I did NOT repaint the back of my boards when I redid everything.
See this thread on SOS:
http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forum...arpeting+bunks
My Myco was 4 seasons old when I got it, and the wood was JUNK. I mean it was falling apart; all splintered up and cracked. I started from scratch (beginning of this season) with all new 2x6 PT Grade A Pine. I consulted a buddy and OSO member who owns a Cypress mill, and he said just use PT pine.
IMHO and experience, leaving the bottom/back side of the wood/board/bunk open is the most important factor to allow for drying. My Myco had black carpet over 80% of the board, and exposed wood was then coated with black paint for looks. I did NOT repaint the back of my boards when I redid everything.
See this thread on SOS:
http://www.seriousoffshore.com/forum...arpeting+bunks
