ziemer

iTrader: (1)

Looking for recommendations and source for disc brakes...

Does everyone pretty much use the Kodiaks???

I think I would prefer the over hub rotors versus the integrals.

Thanks!

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Kodiak and Tie-Down are really the two most often seen marketed.

Of those two, the Kodiak are MUCH better.
You have several material choices. I recommend the SS Caliper and Nickel Cadmium rotors.

There are several threads on brakes in the past that will yield lots of info with a search. The recent thread looking for trailer parts places will have your best options for sourcing. Although, I bought my Kodiak brakes direct from the manufacturer a few years ago.

rchevelle71

iTrader: (1)

As Brian said, if you launch in salt at all, or just cuz you live in FL, I would at least get the cad plated, or better yet SS, my new trailer came with kodiak's, but EZ loader cheaped out, and I didnt know any better, they put the unplated, and 2 years later, they are junk to the point I had to remove the calipers just to move the trailer, they were locked up.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

On my last trailer, I also adapted the flush kits sold by Champion Trailer Parts to my disk brakes as well.

I used SS band zip ties to affix the "nozzle" to the top/side of the spindle housing clocked to the same position as where the caliper was installed. I didn't use them often, but I figured it was cheap insurance.

bob_t

Most of my trailers have had Kodiak disc brakes. Only one time out of about 9 trailers, I got a "bad" caliper that kept sticking and Kodiak replaced it free of charge, including new pads (called a "loaded caliper") and they even paid the return shipping for the bad caliper, no questions asked! I had Tie Down "Eliminators" or Dominators, or something like that, and they were absolute JUNK! Stripped that entire set-up off the trailer and bought complete Kodiak 6 lug integral disc cad plated kit from a shop I found on the internet. Right at $250 for a complete kit for one axle. Kodiak came out with a 2 piece rear seal a couple of years ago, and it is really nice. The seal slides (rotates) on itself and doesn't make a groove in the spindle, nor does the seal get torn up from any groove or pits already in the spindle. They are sort of a PIA to install in the hub without wrecking the seal though (I found that out the hard way ... twice), but they are a much better seal than the standard single or double lip grease seal. Spindle sizes are pretty much standard, but you should measure the outer and inner spindle diameters to be sure you get the right kits. When I go on long trips now, I just carry an extra complete hub/rotor with bearings and seals already installed and packed with grease in a big ziploc bag. If needed, I could change-out the entire hub/rotor in about 5-10 minutes, along the road (knock on wood, I have not had to do that, yet), with very little effort, if I had to. From my experience, Kodiak stands behind their products quite well. Just google "kodiak disc brake kit" and it will list several. I think mine came from northeasttrailerparts dot com or etrailer dot com. Thats been a couple of years ago (and I don't quite remember anymore ). I had one trailer that had Reliable Casting / Machine Tools brand axle / disc brakes and didn't care for their axle or brake set-up. When I bought a new caliper from Reliable, the caliper said "Kodiak 225" on it! The original one on the axle did not have Kodiak's name on it. Had I known they were going to send me a Kodiak caliper, I could have bought it several other places for much less than I paid. My 2cents.

WVBoater

Ok, so i have a 10 year old tennesee trailer with tandam axle and surge brakes, it has a coupler with the mastercylinder under the top steel plate and the cap for the mastercylinder was a plastic piece that leaked constantly.
This thing has the absolute worst brakes ever, every year i am fixxing where it blows out the fluid or the mastercylinder just fails.
I actually finished this summer with no brakes.
So, i want to refurb this year with a new coupler and i thought i would just do the whole thing, and replace the drums with disc assemblies and reading on here it seems kodiac is best?
However, looking thru the eastern marine site they offer kodiac and others but kodiac just has the hub/rotors/calipers, but not the couplers.
Overtons shows titan and tiedown couplers, anyone have experience with either of these brands for a coupler?
Eastern marine shows the tiedown kits/ or couplers and i have no problem piecing together the parts, just dont want to do tbis more than once so i thought i would ask first.
Dont ya just love this wintertime armchair wrenching?

Thanks

Doug
2000 Stingray230SX

happy hours

I have a titan coupler and all stainless Kodiak on both axles. (tandem trailer) . I love them, if you need parts in a pinch the calipers are same as late model GM. I have two friends that tried to save the $$ and got tiedown calipers and both turned to junk in less then a year. (all were/are salt water boats).

If you really wanna be top of the line get a EOH and put Kodiak on all wheels. Thats what I am gonna do on next boat. My boat only weighs 4500# but I love brakes. Figured a brake set costs same as my ins deductible with less hassle.

WVBoater

My trailer currently has brakes on one axle only.
I am hoping to trade in 2 years for a 34/35, so i need the trailer to be right.
Gonna strip it and paint it and replace fendrboards and bunks/carpet, but i will prob just put the discs on the same (1) axle that currently has drums.
At about 125.00 per side, i dont mind changing to discs, as new parts for the drum brakes would be about 100.00 or so
then add the coupler for 189.00 and HEY!! I got decent trailer brakes again.

fossil fuel

TIE DOWN IS JUNK Their customer service is non existant and arrogant. DONT BUY ANYTHING TIE DOWN

WVBoater

how about their actuator(coupler)??
From a description standpoint it "seems" better than the titan or Atwood( which is what is on the trailer oem, and it sucks)