Oversized brakes on 3500 dually ???????
06-21-2012, 06:40 PM
#21
Registered
F-350 Brake issues.........Never,Never,NEVER use a aftermarket brake pad on a F-350 or F-450...You will be a victim of incompatible wear and hardness. Ive tried all the NAPA pads and they all cause problems. Buy the motorcraft replacements and your nausea will disappear. Its really the easy button!!!
06-21-2012, 06:59 PM
#22
Registered
Thread Starter
F-350 Brake issues.........Never,Never,NEVER use a aftermarket brake pad on a F-350 or F-450...You will be a victim of incompatible wear and hardness. Ive tried all the NAPA pads and they all cause problems. Buy the motorcraft replacements and your nausea will disappear. Its really the easy button!!!
Yes. Special linings are exactly that, special. Most braking does not go far enough away from the norm, or design, to need special linings. Semi-metalics are the O.E. material for the most part and it is about the best for most braking.
I have tried some special linings on cars and I still like O.E. for most driving. I intend to keep O.E. style material on my truck too.
06-21-2012, 07:14 PM
#23
VIP Member
F-350 Brake issues.........Never,Never,NEVER use a aftermarket brake pad on a F-350 or F-450...You will be a victim of incompatible wear and hardness. Ive tried all the NAPA pads and they all cause problems. Buy the motorcraft replacements and your nausea will disappear. Its really the easy button!!!
I was using all Napa top o' the line parts. Last year, day before a tow/trip to FL, I had a caliper start sticking, I threw on brand new Motorcraft loaded calipers. That surely wasn't cheap, with only a 10 minute notice calling just after 5PM to the closest Ford dealer. Before I installed the new wheels last week, I installed new Motorcraft rotors at the advice of 45sonic/Bill here on OSO.
I'd love to replace my Emergency Brake shoes as well, but unfortunately the entire axle has to come apart to do so.
06-21-2012, 07:59 PM
#24
Registered
Thread Starter
I see the wildwood system. http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...kup&modoption=
and I see the Baer stuff. http://www.baer.com/products?page=sh...egory_id=14693
I have some questions for both makers.
Any other products that you all know of to look at ?
and I see the Baer stuff. http://www.baer.com/products?page=sh...egory_id=14693
I have some questions for both makers.
Any other products that you all know of to look at ?
06-21-2012, 09:04 PM
#26
Registered
Thread Starter
2006 3500 CC, DRW, LBZ, Duramax/Allison, 4X4. No warranty issues. I want the braking to be optimal all around. I plan to tow at max rating with this truck but the trailer will be EOH and the truck will have to be good for it too.
The current probs are from PO but I am wanting to improve my truck to meet or exceed the 2012 truck.
Last edited by aquaforce; 06-21-2012 at 09:14 PM.
06-22-2012, 10:23 AM
#27
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Perry Lake, KS Lake of Ozarks
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
19.5 commercial wheels or 20" rims and tires plus the $1500 in parts to properly level the front end is a big expense! Then spend more money on performance brakes.
I am sure you will stop a little better unloaded and thus loaded but the $5,000 spent to do all that can go much further and yeild better results.
Assuming tow control is most important, get a custom tune from Duramax tuner, Idaho Rob or other well known EFI Live tune writers. Poke around on dieselplace.com
Your LBZ is perfect for a DSP5 switch that allows for 5 separate tunes of your choice. Maybe Stock, 40 hp tow, 90hp, 150hp, and a detuned "Valet".
You can specify the Turbo Brake be turned on in T/H mode just like the 2012. It will bring you down faster than any high end brake set. Turbo Brake is often incorectly refered to as an Exhaust Brake or Jake Brake but those are separate systems that are possible but expensive, $1.5k additions. (still would do more than performance brakes, IMO)
EFI Live can do tons of fun stuff like, remove the speed limiter of 93mph, restrict the EGR and turn off tire pressure warning (dont think you had that in '06 though).
Since you are towing heavy, I would spend the money on an EGT sensor/gauge and 900ish on EFI Live/DSP5. With less than $1500 spent to have someone else do it all you will be stopping shorter and towing safer - Guaranteed!
If you want to spend more money, $3500 - have the trans built by a skilled shop with a triple disc torque converter, better clutches and the other little things they do to hold big power and weight.
This will make it bullet proof for bigger hp tunes. If it is not built, dont go more than +40hp. Keep the rpm's up around 2k, dont lug 6th even if the motor can pull it, exhaust temps will climb.
I just had my trans built after 60k miles running a 50-70hp tune and NOT hot rodding or pulling extensive heavy, it was starting to slip.
Exhaust system will not gain anything except noise until +120hp and then only if you go "turbo back" to remove the restrictive DOC.
Prodigy P3 a fantastic brake controller that does EoH and up to 4 axles (which I have done towing several doubles)
You can be bullet proof tough or look pimp but pimps ain't tough.
I am sure you will stop a little better unloaded and thus loaded but the $5,000 spent to do all that can go much further and yeild better results.
Assuming tow control is most important, get a custom tune from Duramax tuner, Idaho Rob or other well known EFI Live tune writers. Poke around on dieselplace.com
Your LBZ is perfect for a DSP5 switch that allows for 5 separate tunes of your choice. Maybe Stock, 40 hp tow, 90hp, 150hp, and a detuned "Valet".
You can specify the Turbo Brake be turned on in T/H mode just like the 2012. It will bring you down faster than any high end brake set. Turbo Brake is often incorectly refered to as an Exhaust Brake or Jake Brake but those are separate systems that are possible but expensive, $1.5k additions. (still would do more than performance brakes, IMO)
EFI Live can do tons of fun stuff like, remove the speed limiter of 93mph, restrict the EGR and turn off tire pressure warning (dont think you had that in '06 though).
Since you are towing heavy, I would spend the money on an EGT sensor/gauge and 900ish on EFI Live/DSP5. With less than $1500 spent to have someone else do it all you will be stopping shorter and towing safer - Guaranteed!
If you want to spend more money, $3500 - have the trans built by a skilled shop with a triple disc torque converter, better clutches and the other little things they do to hold big power and weight.
This will make it bullet proof for bigger hp tunes. If it is not built, dont go more than +40hp. Keep the rpm's up around 2k, dont lug 6th even if the motor can pull it, exhaust temps will climb.
I just had my trans built after 60k miles running a 50-70hp tune and NOT hot rodding or pulling extensive heavy, it was starting to slip.
Exhaust system will not gain anything except noise until +120hp and then only if you go "turbo back" to remove the restrictive DOC.
Prodigy P3 a fantastic brake controller that does EoH and up to 4 axles (which I have done towing several doubles)
You can be bullet proof tough or look pimp but pimps ain't tough.
Last edited by ChargeIt; 06-22-2012 at 10:29 AM.
06-22-2012, 07:54 PM
#28
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
If you have the extra coin? you can also look at "Brembo", they make sure REALLY nice stuff, a buddy of mine upgraded his Escalade with them, he was fortunate to find them on Ebay used, but, still paid around 5K. 8 Piston front, 6 piston rear, the kit bolted on and fit like a glove, hardware, fit, finish, etc was top shelf! He went to 22" rims, but, I beleive they would have fit under 20's?
Anodized red calipers and braided brake lines look pretty killer too [-:
The one drawback was the price of replacement pads, parts are quite pricey, but, when he stands on the binders it feels like your brain is going to start running out your nostrils!
Michael
Anodized red calipers and braided brake lines look pretty killer too [-:
The one drawback was the price of replacement pads, parts are quite pricey, but, when he stands on the binders it feels like your brain is going to start running out your nostrils!
Michael
06-22-2012, 09:36 PM
#29
Registered
Thread Starter
19.5 commercial wheels or 20" rims and tires plus the $1500 in parts to properly level the front end is a big expense! Then spend more money on performance brakes.
I am sure you will stop a little better unloaded and thus loaded but the $5,000 spent to do all that can go much further and yeild better results.
Assuming tow control is most important, get a custom tune from Duramax tuner, Idaho Rob or other well known EFI Live tune writers. Poke around on dieselplace.com
Your LBZ is perfect for a DSP5 switch that allows for 5 separate tunes of your choice. Maybe Stock, 40 hp tow, 90hp, 150hp, and a detuned "Valet".
You can specify the Turbo Brake be turned on in T/H mode just like the 2012. It will bring you down faster than any high end brake set. Turbo Brake is often incorectly refered to as an Exhaust Brake or Jake Brake but those are separate systems that are possible but expensive, $1.5k additions. (still would do more than performance brakes, IMO)
EFI Live can do tons of fun stuff like, remove the speed limiter of 93mph, restrict the EGR and turn off tire pressure warning (dont think you had that in '06 though).
Since you are towing heavy, I would spend the money on an EGT sensor/gauge and 900ish on EFI Live/DSP5. With less than $1500 spent to have someone else do it all you will be stopping shorter and towing safer - Guaranteed!
If you want to spend more money, $3500 - have the trans built by a skilled shop with a triple disc torque converter, better clutches and the other little things they do to hold big power and weight.
This will make it bullet proof for bigger hp tunes. If it is not built, dont go more than +40hp. Keep the rpm's up around 2k, dont lug 6th even if the motor can pull it, exhaust temps will climb.
I just had my trans built after 60k miles running a 50-70hp tune and NOT hot rodding or pulling extensive heavy, it was starting to slip.
Exhaust system will not gain anything except noise until +120hp and then only if you go "turbo back" to remove the restrictive DOC.
Prodigy P3 a fantastic brake controller that does EoH and up to 4 axles (which I have done towing several doubles)
You can be bullet proof tough or look pimp but pimps ain't tough.
I am sure you will stop a little better unloaded and thus loaded but the $5,000 spent to do all that can go much further and yeild better results.
Assuming tow control is most important, get a custom tune from Duramax tuner, Idaho Rob or other well known EFI Live tune writers. Poke around on dieselplace.com
Your LBZ is perfect for a DSP5 switch that allows for 5 separate tunes of your choice. Maybe Stock, 40 hp tow, 90hp, 150hp, and a detuned "Valet".
You can specify the Turbo Brake be turned on in T/H mode just like the 2012. It will bring you down faster than any high end brake set. Turbo Brake is often incorectly refered to as an Exhaust Brake or Jake Brake but those are separate systems that are possible but expensive, $1.5k additions. (still would do more than performance brakes, IMO)
EFI Live can do tons of fun stuff like, remove the speed limiter of 93mph, restrict the EGR and turn off tire pressure warning (dont think you had that in '06 though).
Since you are towing heavy, I would spend the money on an EGT sensor/gauge and 900ish on EFI Live/DSP5. With less than $1500 spent to have someone else do it all you will be stopping shorter and towing safer - Guaranteed!
If you want to spend more money, $3500 - have the trans built by a skilled shop with a triple disc torque converter, better clutches and the other little things they do to hold big power and weight.
This will make it bullet proof for bigger hp tunes. If it is not built, dont go more than +40hp. Keep the rpm's up around 2k, dont lug 6th even if the motor can pull it, exhaust temps will climb.
I just had my trans built after 60k miles running a 50-70hp tune and NOT hot rodding or pulling extensive heavy, it was starting to slip.
Exhaust system will not gain anything except noise until +120hp and then only if you go "turbo back" to remove the restrictive DOC.
Prodigy P3 a fantastic brake controller that does EoH and up to 4 axles (which I have done towing several doubles)
You can be bullet proof tough or look pimp but pimps ain't tough.
I think the engine etc of the drive train can do wonders like you mentioned for tow braking. I like what the truck already has in T/H mode but it definately needs bumped up some. The most braking that I need is non tow I think. Currently the brakes don't hold the truck at idle in gear well at all.
If there are good ways for less coin I will check them out. There is a lot of info here to research. I got some info last year and thought that was about it but I am seeing a lot more info and resources here.
Oh great, more hours of study.
If you have the extra coin? you can also look at "Brembo", they make sure REALLY nice stuff, a buddy of mine upgraded his Escalade with them, he was fortunate to find them on Ebay used, but, still paid around 5K. 8 Piston front, 6 piston rear, the kit bolted on and fit like a glove, hardware, fit, finish, etc was top shelf! He went to 22" rims, but, I beleive they would have fit under 20's?
Anodized red calipers and braided brake lines look pretty killer too [-:
The one drawback was the price of replacement pads, parts are quite pricey, but, when he stands on the binders it feels like your brain is going to start running out your nostrils!
Michael
Anodized red calipers and braided brake lines look pretty killer too [-:
The one drawback was the price of replacement pads, parts are quite pricey, but, when he stands on the binders it feels like your brain is going to start running out your nostrils!
Michael
Yes, Brembo is another name I have heard. I know of some Dodge vehicles that are running that make. I want to check them out too.
06-23-2012, 10:48 AM
#30
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Perry Lake, KS Lake of Ozarks
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
An 8,000# truck is not going to stop like a 3k sports car (especially without a lot of work) but if general slow speed is an issue, there may be an under lying problem.
Have you compared your brake feel of a new truck?
I dont know when they switched from rear drum to disc but have heard with the drum brakes; driving backward and braking several times over the course of say, a block can tighten drums.
Another suggestion would be to flush the brake/steering system. The fluid is shared by both systems and is subjected to Extreme heat with the Hydroboost. It is a hydraulic fluid that is hydroscopic which will lose some of its properties and has likely never been changed?? People often fail to think of any other fluid than oil and sometimes trans.
Look for a shop that uses BG Equipment. It is designed to do a complete fluid exchange and clean a system, not just drain and fill like many shops. (it is also safe for your Allison trans which should not be "power flushed")
Have you compared your brake feel of a new truck?
I dont know when they switched from rear drum to disc but have heard with the drum brakes; driving backward and braking several times over the course of say, a block can tighten drums.
Another suggestion would be to flush the brake/steering system. The fluid is shared by both systems and is subjected to Extreme heat with the Hydroboost. It is a hydraulic fluid that is hydroscopic which will lose some of its properties and has likely never been changed?? People often fail to think of any other fluid than oil and sometimes trans.
Look for a shop that uses BG Equipment. It is designed to do a complete fluid exchange and clean a system, not just drain and fill like many shops. (it is also safe for your Allison trans which should not be "power flushed")
