To Upgrade My Trailer or Not
07-26-2012, 08:55 AM
#11
Registered
The welded trailers can and will crack. There are plenty of posts about it and even more posts that were deleted about it.
I'd have a hard time selling a perfectly good trailer to upgrade to a new one. Do your research, they aren't necessarily better.
I'd have a hard time selling a perfectly good trailer to upgrade to a new one. Do your research, they aren't necessarily better.
07-29-2012, 06:05 PM
#12
Registered
We ordered a Myco for our Hydra-Sports 3300vx fish boat a couple years ago. Welded aluminum, triple torsion axles, EOH brakes, LED lights, Kodak s-cad discs, aluminum wheels was around $15k out the door with tax.
Welded trailers are night and day better than bolt together I-beam, anyone that says otherwise must haven't experienced the difference yet. Some things to note with Myco, do not put the crap chrome plated steel axle covers on as they rust immediately and hold water. Also, they have to be towed perfectly level due to the torsion axles. The Hydra-Sports is at the upper end of the trailer capacity and if your tow ball isn't high enough you will overload the front axle and blow through tires. Experienced this when I used the ball mount I normally tow my Velocity with while towing the HS to Islamorada a couple weeks ago. I have a 2012 Ram 3500 mega cab with air suspension on the rear and even though my truck wasn't sagging at all, after blowing two tires I measured the beam height at ball and rear of trailer and there was a 5" difference. The weight distributing ball mount I usually use with the Myco wouldn't slide all the way in the receiver on my new truck, so I just used my other one...still rated at 16,000 lbs. Big mistake as the ball height was different enough I guess. After changing one of the blowouts with the nice State Farm road assistance guy I had the same wheel (port front) break all 8 lugs off and fall off the trailer going 60mph. The trailer pulled straight as an arrow while I slowed down and watch the wheel roll past me. Now I don't know why the lugs sheared off, but guess they were either over-tightened at some point or the wheel wasn't fully seated properly when the SF guy changed it.
What would I do differently? 1. Go full stainless with the brakes, you'll spend the money replacing the rusted s-cads anyway. 2. Use ceramic brake pads, the metallic ones disintegrate after repeated dunks in salt. 3. Tell Myco to carefully separate the paired wire they use on the trailer. The only other problem I've had was with the lights due to corrosion on the wire. Sometimes when they pull the paired wire apart one side will pull all the plastic sheeting off the other. This leaves exposed wire that corrodes quickly and eventually fails. Took me a while to find the problem because all my connections were good.
The boat loads perfectly on it and the weight is distributed much better on the hull than on I-beam trailers.
I have no experience with Manning so can't comment on those.
Welded trailers are night and day better than bolt together I-beam, anyone that says otherwise must haven't experienced the difference yet. Some things to note with Myco, do not put the crap chrome plated steel axle covers on as they rust immediately and hold water. Also, they have to be towed perfectly level due to the torsion axles. The Hydra-Sports is at the upper end of the trailer capacity and if your tow ball isn't high enough you will overload the front axle and blow through tires. Experienced this when I used the ball mount I normally tow my Velocity with while towing the HS to Islamorada a couple weeks ago. I have a 2012 Ram 3500 mega cab with air suspension on the rear and even though my truck wasn't sagging at all, after blowing two tires I measured the beam height at ball and rear of trailer and there was a 5" difference. The weight distributing ball mount I usually use with the Myco wouldn't slide all the way in the receiver on my new truck, so I just used my other one...still rated at 16,000 lbs. Big mistake as the ball height was different enough I guess. After changing one of the blowouts with the nice State Farm road assistance guy I had the same wheel (port front) break all 8 lugs off and fall off the trailer going 60mph. The trailer pulled straight as an arrow while I slowed down and watch the wheel roll past me. Now I don't know why the lugs sheared off, but guess they were either over-tightened at some point or the wheel wasn't fully seated properly when the SF guy changed it.
What would I do differently? 1. Go full stainless with the brakes, you'll spend the money replacing the rusted s-cads anyway. 2. Use ceramic brake pads, the metallic ones disintegrate after repeated dunks in salt. 3. Tell Myco to carefully separate the paired wire they use on the trailer. The only other problem I've had was with the lights due to corrosion on the wire. Sometimes when they pull the paired wire apart one side will pull all the plastic sheeting off the other. This leaves exposed wire that corrodes quickly and eventually fails. Took me a while to find the problem because all my connections were good.
The boat loads perfectly on it and the weight is distributed much better on the hull than on I-beam trailers.
I have no experience with Manning so can't comment on those.
