Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

On my 1997 Tahoe 2 door, the rear brake line is leaking (from rust) about 1/2 way down the body of the truck, up inside the C-channel of the frame.

All of the lines look terrible, rust wise; the fuel and return, the brake and the E-brake cable.

My question: Can I just buy a replacement pre-bent line "off the shelf" somewhere, or does this have to be relined by someone who bends and installs brakes and lines for living?

Hematite

Usually it's more cost effective to just buy straight lengths of replacement brake line, couplers, and a tubing bender and go at it, if you are doing this yourself. I had my older truck brake lines replaced and the garage also did it this way. It sounds like you have quite a job ahead with brake, fuel, and brake cable rust. I wish you the best, a nasty project for sure.

smokin' gun

iTrader: (30)

absolutely i use www.classictube.com i get the stainless kit think i paid $175,00 for every brake line on my 02 2500 hd and free shipping .they also make fuel lines and trans lines for every model car hope this helps

GEORGE MAZ

http://www.classictube.com
Stainless Steel lines pre-bent using OEM blueprints

I'm doing the same complete replacement job on my '03 Yukon Denali. Brake failure occurred while pulling my boat out of the water. I had to quickly hit the throttle to get up the ramp...could've easily ended up underwater. This should have been a safety recall as it is such a common problem.

$300. Full kit comes with everything. Took 3 weeks to make. Call them with your VIN# and I had to ask my GMC dealer two questions about certain options on my vehicle.
I had to drop the fuel tank on my truck. Forget removal of the old lines, just cut them all out and start installing the new S.S. lines...which will outlive the truck, you'll never have to worry about it again. Do one line at a time and I like to take pictures before I start so I can reference how things are supposed to end up. Blow out the lines with air to be sure no debris inside. High boiling point fluid, Hawk HPS pads...the works!

I wasn't pissed about almost losing my truck in the water, or having to tow my boat home no brakes, just using gear reduction at 1am (less traffic), but I was fu@king furious that just the day before I was on a road trip with my son that could've ended in disaster.

From the research I did, apparently the special anti-corrosion coating for the brake lines reacts with the brakeline itself to rust even faster. Dummies

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

if you really plan on keeping the tahoe then go the SS route..if not all you have to do is go to carquest and buy a 25' roll of 1/4'' brake tube and under the vehicle around your foot well theirs a union that connects the lines..cut it their and piggy back it to the old brake line and and feed it through the c channel in the frame..i use wire ties and 1/4'' rubber hose so it dont rub through the lines..then cut it to legnth and flare both ends and bleede the brakes..if you are going the SS line route then plan on pulling the fuel tank,replacing the tank straps and whyle its down you may as well replace the fuel pump....expect to spend a grand when all said and done..

Knot 4 Me

Remember that stainless line requires a different flair than standard line.

wannabe

You are better off getting generic line and abandoning the old line and running a new parallel line. Do not try to remove the old line you may break the others. We have an old pickup we did this on GM 1995-

wannabe

wananewboat

My friend just did it on an 02 HD and he said it was a hard job. The more he did the more would brake. Had to drop the tank and do all gas lines also. He went with the SS preformed lines.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

I am considering dropping the tank and doing both fuel lines and the E-brake cable at the same time. Thanks all.

For those of you with experience with Classic Tube, how do they ship? Does it come in sections? Are the long straight runs still shipped as coils? Curious.

aquaforce

The raw brake line can be purchased then run and flared for the connection point but look at the flare type and see if it is going to require a special flare tool.
I had a line blow due, to rust a on a previous chassis, and the flare was not a normal single or double. It was an ISO design that required a $235 tool. Fortunately I was able to find one to borrow but a special tool requirement can make a DIY job cost prohibitive.