2005 6.0 powerstoke
#31
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Ford gold coolant has silicates. Silicates fall out of suspension and plug the oil cooler. Cat ELC is silicate free. And the thinner oil just flows easier when the motor is cold so the injectors fire easier. The injectors are electonically controlled but fired from high pressure engine oil.
#32
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those earlier 04 and previous lockouts were problematic. The biggest problem being they corrode here and almost become impossible to turn after a few winters. And they want so damn much from ford for them. They must think everyone is made of money. I agree, the warn kit/replacement is superior.
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fixx
If the truck is an 04 or older, no heat can be caused by leaking wheel bearing/hub seals. They are vacuum actuated. When the seals go it also loses vacuum to the heater controls. There is a T in the vacuum hoses next to the vacuum pump and resivior. Unhook the line going to the front axle and plug the remaining vacuum line into the resivoir box directly.
Last edited by FIXX; 03-24-2013 at 08:56 PM.
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fixx
one thing i found out the hard way was i thought warn had enough greace in their hubs to keep them from burning up..make sure you pack the backside with low temp grease or they may blow apart on the inside and you wont know until you go to use them..
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Ford gold coolant has silicates. Silicates fall out of suspension and plug the oil cooler. Cat ELC is silicate free. And the thinner oil just flows easier when the motor is cold so the injectors fire easier. The injectors are electonically controlled but fired from high pressure engine oil.
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I just plug mine in when i get home and run 15w-40 motorcraft always. change every 3k and call it a day. i stop plugging it in when night lows are above 35 or so. It is just so much easier on the engine. Im pretty sure the heater element in the 7.3, 6.0, 6.4, 6.7 is a 30a heater. If you plug it in stone cold you will draw that amount max. if you plug it in when you get home right away and your ECT is 200 or so then the heater dosent have to bring anything up. it is actually a little colder than that. average ect when plugged in is 130. and the draw (which i have verified) is around 2a. So, it uses less current to plug it in hot.
#37
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Im pretty sure the heater element in the 7.3, 6.0, 6.4, 6.7 is a 30a heater. If you plug it in stone cold you will draw that amount max. if you plug it in when you get home right away and your ECT is 200 or so then the heater dosent have to bring anything up. it is actually a little colder than that. average ect when plugged in is 130. and the draw (which i have verified) is around 2a. So, it uses less current to plug it in hot.
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Once again, I know that. I just wanted to see what the other guys response was to it. He stated that the 5w wasn't good for the coolers, and that did not make any sense to me. I use the AMSOIL Series 3000 5w-30 in both my 6.0's. One has 250000 miles on it, and only two injectors replaced so far and the other 175000 (knock on wood) trouble free miles on it. I change my oil about 45-50,000 miles and filter changes every 15,000 miles.
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There is more to the 6.0l head issues than coolant type. Im sure the fact that it has so few head bolts has something to do with it. Go to any diesel shop and they will tell you that the 6.0l keeps the lights on! Im all about sticking up for what you like but there is NO arguing the 6.0 is a fragile diesel. We see 1-2 a week with major issues. Some of those have different coolant with filters added and egr
Delete and fleet maintained and still dont last.
Delete and fleet maintained and still dont last.