ALL_IN!

iTrader: (1)

Was asked by a member to document my electric over hydraulic conversion - I didn't take enough pictures, as I didn't think about it at the time, but I'll share what I have.

This is a 2002 Myco Trailer (M30-31XHTA) Dual Axle, Disc Brakes

Parts List
- Titan Brakerite Brake Actuator
- Tekonsha Prodigy P3 In-Cab Controller
- Actuator Mounting Bracket
- Axle U-Bolt Kit
- Dual Breakaway Battery Kit with Breakaway Switch
- Fabbed Battery Mounting Brackets
- Grade 8 Bolts (3) 1/2" x 5", washers, nuts
- Wiring in standard colors from autoparts store
- Solder, shrinkwrap, stainless fasteners, misc

Mounted the actuator using vendor supplied mounting bracket. Bracket has been painted using Rustoleum Primer and Rustolem Industrial White (rattle cans). Bracket was then secured to the trailer with square u-bolts.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523163[/ATTACH]

Welded some brackets to secure the battery boxes to trailer. These brackets are basic C shaped and the trailer upright is clamped between the two brackets.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523162[/ATTACH]

Removed tongue slider, dampers, breakaway lever, reverse solenoid, and master cylinder from tongue.
Connected factory flex brake line to actuator. This required a 180* U bend in the hard line. I know that brake line looks terrible. I wanted to make sure if fit properly before going to purchase a new one.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523165[/ATTACH]

Drilled 3-1/2" holes in front of slider portion on tongue. This will lock the slider in place. I debated on welding vs bolting. Existing setup was bolted, therefore I believe that strength is same similar. Plus I reinstalled the slider bolts as a secondary fail-safe. I will likely end up removing the bolts and welding the slider portion solid, as well as plug the misc holes left over from the master cylinder setup.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523164[/ATTACH]

Not finished yet...
- need to wire the actuator harness to the trailer and plug. At this point, I have only soldered / shrinkwrapped additional length to the standard actuator wires.
- need to bleed the brakes.
- need to install the Prodigy 3 controller in the tow vehicle.

I hope this helps someone with their project!

VoodooRob

Thank you for posting.

Steve H

Don't weld it, just leave the bolt, and install a pipe plug in the back of the master cylinder. Then you have a back up system if your EOH fails.
It happened to me in the middle of the night midway thru a six hour trip. It was a hassle, but was able to reconnect the brake line to the surge master cylinder, bleed the brakes, and be on our way. We only lost an hour.

ALL_IN!

iTrader: (1)

I did some wiring last night - unfortunately, it has been raining every day here lately, so I'm a little bit behind.

Anyway, I ran wires from the actuator to the 7 pin connector, then ran the wires from the actuator to the breakaway batteries, and breakaway switch. I then pulled the breakaway pin and woila! ...the actuator started!

Next up, is installing the new Prodigy P3 in the dually. It has what I believe is a factory controller mounted to the lower IP, so hopefully that will be a quick swap. Then need to bleed the brakes and test the actuator with the truck connected.

If anyone wants more pictures, let me know.

ALL_IN!

iTrader: (1)

...unfortunately, I've run in to an issue. Brakerite powers up when pulling the breakaway switch, but does nothing when hitting vehicle brake pedal. When using the manual over-ride switch on the Prodigy P3, the Brakerite actuator doesn't come on until 6 volts. WTF??

...and even larger mystery is that the vehicle brake pedal WILL cause the Brakerite actuator to come on immediately after using the manual over-ride switch on the Prodigy P3. ...but wait a few seconds, a click is heard in the Brakerite actuator and then, no vehicle brake pedal input. WTF x 2 !?!?

I called Titan today - they are stumped, and will be shipping me a new Brakerite actuator.. ...looks like it's going to be a late night thrash on Thursday night to get trailer ready for 8am Friday morning departure to the lake!

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

There are two + wires from your truck to your trailer.
First is 12V+ constant power.
Second is 0-12V+ variable power which is the varying signal from the brake controller.

Ensure that you have proper pinouts all the way from the vehicle connector through the pigtail, and to the actuator.

Some pigtails have been known to be wired completely different than expected, including the one that I bought from Champion several years ago. I had to wire my circuits on the trailer by location, not by color.

ALL_IN!

iTrader: (1)

Well, I feel stupid - but I never checked the B+ 12volt pin on the truck side connector. I was so focused on the Blue 12volt signal wire, I must have just overlooked it. I had another truck with a properly wired and operational Prodigy P3 - and it worked perfectly with the Brakerite unit on my trailer. So at that point, I knew I had a truck-side problem. I traced the issue to a missing 40A fuse in the under hood fuse panel - which powered up #1 B+ stud which is connected to the tow connector on the back of the truck. Swapped the 40A fuse from the blower motor - and everything appears to working perfectly.

The other complexity is that this truck tow harness was hacked into by a previous owner / dealer for a fifth wheel horse trailer - it is a Western Hauler edition 3500 Silverado out of Texas.

I'll do a test drive tomorrow night to confirm. Calling Titan early in the morning to cancel the return/replacement. Whew!