Build Thread - Ford E350 Uhaul to Race Hauler conversion / Totter Home
#22
Racer
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Location: Chesterfield, MI
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while looking for plastic storage bins like theNascar rigs have I found them to be pretty pricey and kind of thin and cheap.
One of the best prices I found was 112 bins for $116.00 (free shipping), right around 1$ per bin.Not really bad, but considering the size
of the bins I would need a couple hundred bucks worth just do do a few drawers.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]548434[/ATTACH]
I found this plastic case at Harbor Freight for 8.99 with 20 removable plastic bins. Thats .45 cents each, they seemed a little thicker, a littler deeper
and will hold more parts than the red ones from Ebay.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]548436[/ATTACH]
Over all not bad. Every company make there tool boxes a little different size, so I used skid plate foam cut around the back and one side to fill in
extra space and to keep the bin boxes snug.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]548437[/ATTACH]
One of the best prices I found was 112 bins for $116.00 (free shipping), right around 1$ per bin.Not really bad, but considering the size
of the bins I would need a couple hundred bucks worth just do do a few drawers.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]548434[/ATTACH]
I found this plastic case at Harbor Freight for 8.99 with 20 removable plastic bins. Thats .45 cents each, they seemed a little thicker, a littler deeper
and will hold more parts than the red ones from Ebay.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]548436[/ATTACH]
Over all not bad. Every company make there tool boxes a little different size, so I used skid plate foam cut around the back and one side to fill in
extra space and to keep the bin boxes snug.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]548437[/ATTACH]
#23
Racer
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The LED's lights are wired to a large marine battery in one of the cabinets along with a REALLY BRIGHT halogen
110v light for when I might need some serious light while working. The back is finished.. now I'll start on the front.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]549116[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]549117[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]549118[/ATTACH]
110v light for when I might need some serious light while working. The back is finished.. now I'll start on the front.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]549116[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]549117[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]549118[/ATTACH]
#24
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After a mid winter break I'm back to work.. I cut the hole this weekend to access the cab, I was going to buy a
rubber accordion seal but after talking to the body shop guy at General RV I'll be doing something different.
His words " Every Class C RV and Most Ford Cube truck have the cab bolted to the chassis" it wont twist,
if it does you bent your frame and will have bigger issues.. The advantage for me is only cosmetic, a rubber
seal wont look as nice..
Also most people don't like the a table/bed combo and would prefer a couch. So I punted and will install a couch..
one problem I ran into is finding a couch small enough to get into the area and threw a 24" door way.
Problem solved (i Think) I found a 74" W couch for 169.99, but its short.. so I'll cut off the legs and build a base
from Overhead kitchen cabinets to raise it up to normal tall people height. This will also add a little more storage..
rubber accordion seal but after talking to the body shop guy at General RV I'll be doing something different.
His words " Every Class C RV and Most Ford Cube truck have the cab bolted to the chassis" it wont twist,
if it does you bent your frame and will have bigger issues.. The advantage for me is only cosmetic, a rubber
seal wont look as nice..
Also most people don't like the a table/bed combo and would prefer a couch. So I punted and will install a couch..
one problem I ran into is finding a couch small enough to get into the area and threw a 24" door way.
Problem solved (i Think) I found a 74" W couch for 169.99, but its short.. so I'll cut off the legs and build a base
from Overhead kitchen cabinets to raise it up to normal tall people height. This will also add a little more storage..
#28
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RV Panel is up and glued into place. I also used the plastic snap pieces between the planes for a clean finished look.
Upper crown molding is 9" chip board with carpet glued on. Each piece is 4ft long and attached with screws to a wood block that was fastened to the box. This way I can remove it to run my lights or to install speakers.
Between the doors I had a funky size gap that would have been difficult to finish, so I wrapped some carpet and screwed it in.
Upper crown molding is 9" chip board with carpet glued on. Each piece is 4ft long and attached with screws to a wood block that was fastened to the box. This way I can remove it to run my lights or to install speakers.
Between the doors I had a funky size gap that would have been difficult to finish, so I wrapped some carpet and screwed it in.
#29
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Total cost including the truck and mechanical repair is around 4k so far.
I bought CHEAP carpet with padding already attached (.64 cents) sqft
from Menards. It was thin enough to roll around round corners yet has a
little insulation and sound deadening properties.
The thin trim board is nothing more than OSB with the carpet stapled to it.
The reason I need todo this was the corners are metal so to cover them I
need wider wood to reach over to the box area.
I bought CHEAP carpet with padding already attached (.64 cents) sqft
from Menards. It was thin enough to roll around round corners yet has a
little insulation and sound deadening properties.
The thin trim board is nothing more than OSB with the carpet stapled to it.
The reason I need todo this was the corners are metal so to cover them I
need wider wood to reach over to the box area.
#30
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It was a nice Febuary weekend for Michigan so I spent a few hours
finishing up the back of the van.
I finished up the end cap on the drivers side boxes along with finishing
the aluminum trim around the boxes. I also mounted a dry erase board
on the wall for race times, lane assignments and general info.
Also finished up the floor trim with that "plastic" molding and found a great
(REALLY GREAT) Deal and a Flexsteel leather RV couch that folds out into a
bed. I wanted something with more brown, but I could not pass on this..
and the wife likes it so I'm happy
Now my one negative.. I removed some wrap material over a bump in the
outside. I knew it was damaged, just did not know to what extent.
The FRP was cracked and never sealed allowing water into the wood rotting
it out. I just cut the fiberglass layer back to dry wood and will dig out the
rot, much like a transom in a boat.. should be pretty simple, but will add some
time onto the project.
*The white patch was done by U Haul, not the best but I can work with it.
finishing up the back of the van.
I finished up the end cap on the drivers side boxes along with finishing
the aluminum trim around the boxes. I also mounted a dry erase board
on the wall for race times, lane assignments and general info.
Also finished up the floor trim with that "plastic" molding and found a great
(REALLY GREAT) Deal and a Flexsteel leather RV couch that folds out into a
bed. I wanted something with more brown, but I could not pass on this..
and the wife likes it so I'm happy
Now my one negative.. I removed some wrap material over a bump in the
outside. I knew it was damaged, just did not know to what extent.
The FRP was cracked and never sealed allowing water into the wood rotting
it out. I just cut the fiberglass layer back to dry wood and will dig out the
rot, much like a transom in a boat.. should be pretty simple, but will add some
time onto the project.
*The white patch was done by U Haul, not the best but I can work with it.