When do "you" stop pumping grease in hub?
03-09-2016, 08:57 PM
#21
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Edit...the on highway swap with that setup would be a plus...just done think the narrow bearing spacing would hold up laterally.
Last edited by turbofox54; 03-09-2016 at 09:01 PM.
03-09-2016, 09:30 PM
#22
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I have been working on military helicopters drivetrains for 34 years now and this technic has never changed. Pump grease into the existing bearing by using a hand pump only until the new grease is visible. Than clean off all excess grease. Packing grease in a new bearing by scraping it across your hand is still used. I use this technic on all my trailers over the years. By the way at one time the military tried air pressurized grease buckets and we started blowing seals. Running a swashplate out of grease at 10,000 feet is not a good thing.
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03-10-2016, 06:38 AM
#24
More on Timken, and where to buy:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/t...ring-size.html
I am not certain on the exact number, but purely comparing the two side by side, I believe that Timken compared to the typical Asian imported bearing...
...the Timken bearing has at least 20% more rollers, and you can actually feel the quality difference in the action between them.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/t...ring-size.html
I am not certain on the exact number, but purely comparing the two side by side, I believe that Timken compared to the typical Asian imported bearing...
...the Timken bearing has at least 20% more rollers, and you can actually feel the quality difference in the action between them.
03-10-2016, 06:50 AM
#25
[QUOTE=fordf350;4413818Running a swashplate out of grease at 10,000 feet is not a good thing.[/QUOTE]
I know exactly what your talking about!!!!! All held on by the "Jesus" nut. But I think at 3 ft AGL, at 100 knots would be even worse!!!
I have the Tiedown Eng. super lubes, and hand pumping until new is seen is the way I do it. Had the trailer serviced with new bearings and seals at a location, they installed the rear seals to far into the hub, grease just pushed out and around the rear seal without going through the bearing out the front. Needless to say, I took it to another shop and new seals put in correctly.
I know exactly what your talking about!!!!! All held on by the "Jesus" nut. But I think at 3 ft AGL, at 100 knots would be even worse!!!
I have the Tiedown Eng. super lubes, and hand pumping until new is seen is the way I do it. Had the trailer serviced with new bearings and seals at a location, they installed the rear seals to far into the hub, grease just pushed out and around the rear seal without going through the bearing out the front. Needless to say, I took it to another shop and new seals put in correctly.
Last edited by 97FASTech; 03-10-2016 at 07:01 AM.
03-11-2016, 01:28 PM
#26
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I know exactly what your talking about!!!!! All held on by the "Jesus" nut. But I think at 3 ft AGL, at 100 knots would be even worse!!!
I have the Tiedown Eng. super lubes, and hand pumping until new is seen is the way I do it. Had the trailer serviced with new bearings and seals at a location, they installed the rear seals to far into the hub, grease just pushed out and around the rear seal without going through the bearing out the front. Needless to say, I took it to another shop and new seals put in correctly.
I have the Tiedown Eng. super lubes, and hand pumping until new is seen is the way I do it. Had the trailer serviced with new bearings and seals at a location, they installed the rear seals to far into the hub, grease just pushed out and around the rear seal without going through the bearing out the front. Needless to say, I took it to another shop and new seals put in correctly.
Helicopters don't fly. They beat the air into submission. 3 ft AGL @ 100 knots, You won't even get "Jesus" out of your mouth. But I have come back with tree limbs stuck in the rocket laucher and even had a duck get blown right in and out the other side of the cabin area during NOE.
08-18-2016, 10:35 AM
#27
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TRAILER BEARINGS ARE JUNK! Throw all your tricks out the window and just admit that the bearings, seals, races, axle machine tolerances, etc, are all JUNK! Doesn't matter. I mean look at the axle and suspension parts compared to the rear of your truck, what a joke.
I have a new 51' car hauler (and multiple others in the past) with triple 7k dexter axles and put on 100's of thousands of miles over the years, I have tried it all, replaced often, repacked often, pumped grease through the EZ lube spindle while spinning the tire after driving and warming it up, even checking my bearings with an inferred thermometer at every fuel stop, all bearings within 3 degrees of each other and STILL had a catastrophic failure ruining the spindle just 3 hours after checking. I like all my stuff perfect and maintain everything to the highest level. Nothing seems to work on trailers.
I have tried every brand of bearings, races and seals besides Timken. For some reason they are always on back order when I need them and can never find 6 of each in stock anywhere. I do have faith the Timken are better but there's more to it then that, and not sure if they are even good enough when the rest of the setup is piss poor.
I have friends who have had failures with the "air tight" and the "vault" hubs also, they did cover under wrnty but still a pain. What I do like about those systems is the more precisely machined piece spindle "washer" specialty piece that the seal rides on.
What some don't realize is the seals are spinning FAST on the axle spindle just wearing out. There is nothing you can do better then disassembling, replacing, and repacking EVERYTHING. Pumping grease in is not going to prevent a seal from wearing out, even worse might blow the seal out.
I plan on trying the dexter axles with the Nevrlube sealed bearings next. One thing I like is how easy it will be to change them in a parking lot while across the country without getting messy. They are guaranteed for 100,000 miles even though I plan on just changing them more often before the break, which is what I try to do with standard bearings anyways.
Most trailer parts are just cheap Chinese JUNK and there's not much we can do to make them last
I have a new 51' car hauler (and multiple others in the past) with triple 7k dexter axles and put on 100's of thousands of miles over the years, I have tried it all, replaced often, repacked often, pumped grease through the EZ lube spindle while spinning the tire after driving and warming it up, even checking my bearings with an inferred thermometer at every fuel stop, all bearings within 3 degrees of each other and STILL had a catastrophic failure ruining the spindle just 3 hours after checking. I like all my stuff perfect and maintain everything to the highest level. Nothing seems to work on trailers.
I have tried every brand of bearings, races and seals besides Timken. For some reason they are always on back order when I need them and can never find 6 of each in stock anywhere. I do have faith the Timken are better but there's more to it then that, and not sure if they are even good enough when the rest of the setup is piss poor.
I have friends who have had failures with the "air tight" and the "vault" hubs also, they did cover under wrnty but still a pain. What I do like about those systems is the more precisely machined piece spindle "washer" specialty piece that the seal rides on.
What some don't realize is the seals are spinning FAST on the axle spindle just wearing out. There is nothing you can do better then disassembling, replacing, and repacking EVERYTHING. Pumping grease in is not going to prevent a seal from wearing out, even worse might blow the seal out.
I plan on trying the dexter axles with the Nevrlube sealed bearings next. One thing I like is how easy it will be to change them in a parking lot while across the country without getting messy. They are guaranteed for 100,000 miles even though I plan on just changing them more often before the break, which is what I try to do with standard bearings anyways.
Most trailer parts are just cheap Chinese JUNK and there's not much we can do to make them last
Important Note: Nev-R-Lube is not designed for immersion in water, such as boat trailer use.
