Trim Gauge and hatch lift on 260

[cfo20]

The trim gauge on my 1999 260 has never worked since I bought it late last year. It is pegged in the up position. I have tested the gauge itself and it works fine, so the problem is the switches and/or wires attached to the switches on the drive. I do not have the expertise to fix this myself as the labor seems rather intensitive with special tools required. Quotes from local marinas range from $880 to $1340. I am debating is it worth it to get this fixed? Any thoughts, recommendations? Is it possible to just attach the new wires to the old ones and just pull them through the transom?

Second, my electric engine hatch lift is slow and noisy. Is this how they are or should I replace it? (this I can do) If so, what size is recommended for a little extra lift space? My 260 has the hatch connection more towards bow in front of the engine versus near the transom at the rear of the engine as most I have seen are. I can post pics if necessary. Thanks!

[Velocity Vector]

Alpha's and Bravo's have two Trim Senders.

They are mounted on either side of the Gimbal Ring.
One sender is for the Trim Gauge and the other sender is for the Trim Limit.

The Trim Limit Switch is mounted on the port side and the Trim Position Switch is mounted on the starboard side.

The switches are prone to damage from water intrusion. Water enters the switch and ruins the contacts. The wires tend to soften and/or rot with age and water leaks into the switch through the wires.

This is why the new switches are sold with the new wires are already attached at the factory. Always replace the wires when replacing the switches.


The Trim Position Switch operates the Trim Gauge.
When the Trim Position Switch fails, the gauge usually pegs to "full up".

When one switch fails, you will end up replacing both switches. This is because the switches are sold in sets of two. Both the Trim Limit and the Trim Sender switches are sold together as a pair. Replacing the switches requires removal of the drive and bell housing.

Changing the switches are the same procedures for replacing the Ujoint Bellows.

Tools Required to Replace Bravo I, II and III Bellows
The Bravo uses an aluminum sleeve to retain the u-joint bellows in place. You will need the Sleeve Removal Tool and the Sleeve Installation Tool. You will also need the Hinge Pin Tool and Bellows Expension Tool if you are going to install exhaust bellows. In addition, the Bravo requires an Tapered Insert Tool for removing and installing the plastic water hose tapered insert. This tapered insert locks the water hose in place on either end.

Hinge Pin Tool
Sleeve Removal Tool
Sleeve Installation Tool
Driver Rod
Driver Head
Bellows Expansion Tool
Tapered Insert Tool

They are about $100.00 I would wait till your drive needs more work. Unless you just want to fix it.

It sounds like the hatch is binding maybe making it slow and noisy. Pull the pin raise the hatch open secure it with something. Then work the hatch actuator without the hatch see how it does, If it is still slow replace it with something simular.

[Revd Up]

My hatch actuator was also very slow and only 12" of travel. I replaced it with a bigger unit with 24" of travel. Much better and faster. I think it was a harmon marine unit.

[cfo20]

Thanks for the advice. I think I will wait until the drive needs other work too. I pulled the pin on the hatch and it still runs the same speed, noisy and slow. I looked at some new hatch lifts and the fast ones only lift 250 lbs. That 260 hatch can't be anywhere near 250, right?

[Revd Up]

It's under 250, but heavier than you think. You'll need two guys to take it off.