Upgrading stereo
#33
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Well, got the sub in. I ended up turning the box around so the sub is facing the front of the boat. The L7 moves so much air it was necessary to cut a vent in the plywood bed base and scre the bed base down with 1 screw every 4-5 inches to keep it from flexing and ratteling.
As far as pic, nothing really to look at since the speaker is facing forward. It would just be a picture of the back of the box....
As far as pic, nothing really to look at since the speaker is facing forward. It would just be a picture of the back of the box....
#34
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodstock, GA
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Well, got the sub in. I ended up turning the box around so the sub is facing the front of the boat. The L7 moves so much air it was necessary to cut a vent in the plywood bed base and scre the bed base down with 1 screw every 4-5 inches to keep it from flexing and ratteling.
As far as pic, nothing really to look at since the speaker is facing forward. It would just be a picture of the back of the box....
As far as pic, nothing really to look at since the speaker is facing forward. It would just be a picture of the back of the box....
#35
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With the sub facing forward it doesn't bother the porta-potty at all. But the plywood floor for the bed will need to be screwed down about ever 3 inches. I also vented it by cutting a 6 x 12 hole in the plywood floor up at the front of the bed. without the vent the air pressure was causing the floor to flex and rattle. It's only 1/4" - 3/8" plywood so it doesn't take much to flex it.
#36
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Woodstock, GA
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With the sub facing forward it doesn't bother the porta-potty at all. But the plywood floor for the bed will need to be screwed down about ever 3 inches. I also vented it by cutting a 6 x 12 hole in the plywood floor up at the front of the bed. without the vent the air pressure was causing the floor to flex and rattle. It's only 1/4" - 3/8" plywood so it doesn't take much to flex it.