how to fill dash holes
#41
#43
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,041
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From: Toledo Oh
DAmn that sounds like a lot of work. My friends cousin's, uncles, ex wifes new brother in law is the structural design engineer at Bayliner. He said to put duck tape on the back side, then point the chopper gun at the front. Then close your eyes, hold your breath, squeeze the trigger and count to 3. Next he said to take a wide putty knife and scrape off any excess before it dries,. To finish it he said the white spray paint from the dollar store is more than good enough.
#44
Key word ...... Bayliner ......
DAmn that sounds like a lot of work. My friends cousin's, uncles, ex wifes new brother in law is the structural design engineer at Bayliner. He said to put duck tape on the back side, then point the chopper gun at the front. Then close your eyes, hold your breath, squeeze the trigger and count to 3. Next he said to take a wide putty knife and scrape off any excess before it dries,. To finish it he said the white spray paint from the dollar store is more than good enough.
#45
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 282
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From: Buffalo, NY
This question comes up every so often on here so i thought i would put up a thread on the subject.
This is a plywood cored dash on a 35 Cig and is pretty representitive of most offshore boats . I start by grinding the inside surface with a 3" 36 grit disk. Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth, the heavier the better, to fit with at least an inch or so of overlap from the original hole. I use a 24 0z. bi-ax cloth because it can easily support itself when saturated. Wetout the fiberglass and apply to the inside surface and allow that to cure before doing anything else. I use polyester for repairs like this because the finish work is much easier and i doubt you will really benifit much from an epoxy.
This is a plywood cored dash on a 35 Cig and is pretty representitive of most offshore boats . I start by grinding the inside surface with a 3" 36 grit disk. Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth, the heavier the better, to fit with at least an inch or so of overlap from the original hole. I use a 24 0z. bi-ax cloth because it can easily support itself when saturated. Wetout the fiberglass and apply to the inside surface and allow that to cure before doing anything else. I use polyester for repairs like this because the finish work is much easier and i doubt you will really benifit much from an epoxy.
#46
vinylester, I used poly in a past life but VE is far superior.
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
#48
ahhhh . . .good times good times
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
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