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Leaking power steering fluid.....help
I posted this up in general discussion and been looking on mercruiser parts website to figure out what parts these are. I have a bad leak (you can see in the pics how bad its gotten with teh brown in the bilge). Its coming from the steering cable box and the part that the power steering lines run into. I know its going to be a decent amount to fix, but any help to identify these would help.. I'm trying to get an idea on cost..
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...ing-fluid.html http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tleak2copy.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../Boatleak1.jpg |
I believe you are missing a grease "boot" there? Are you losing fluid or grease?
I have a complete unit in good condition that you can have for half what you are quoted.....:coolcowboy: |
I'm leaking fluid... Pump was completely empty today when I checked it today so over the winter the seal must have completely went to hell. I know I was losing fluid last year, but was minor. I couldn't tell where it was coming from until I turned the wheel today and it started pouring out. What are you looking for for the unit you have? How old is it?
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Originally Posted by sleev-les
(Post 3658303)
I'm leaking fluid... Pump was completely empty today when I checked it today so over the winter the seal must have completely went to hell. I know I was losing fluid last year, but was minor. I couldn't tell where it was coming from until I turned the wheel today and it started pouring out. What are you looking for for the unit you have? How old is it?
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You already have add-on external steering, instead of chasing this why not just go ahead and upgrade to full hydro to the helm?
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Originally Posted by c_deezy
(Post 3658404)
You already have add-on external steering, instead of chasing this why not just go ahead and upgrade to full hydro to the helm?
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I'd go full hydraulic also. It depends on where you buy the sysytem. It makes a huge difference in the feel of the boat. Fgure on 1200.00 to 1400.00 for the rest of the kit. I also have the part that is leaking on your boat (we just moved so it may take a bit to find it)
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Originally Posted by R Addiction
(Post 3658584)
I'd go full hydraulic also. It depends on where you buy the sysytem. It makes a huge difference in the feel of the boat. Fgure on 1200.00 to 1400.00 for the rest of the kit. I also have the part that is leaking on your boat (we just moved so it may take a bit to find it)
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I agree with John, full hydro is the way to fix this. Especially since you are topping out over 80mph.
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Originally Posted by My Addiction
(Post 3658644)
I agree with John, full hydro is the way to fix this. Especially since you are topping out over 80mph.
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Originally Posted by sleev-les
(Post 3658596)
Where did you move to? Still up in PA?? My bday falls on a Saturday this year (21 July) and am going to try and get some locals (or fairly local lol) to raft up at Dobbins Island.... I know we were tryin' to get some of the fellow Tantrum owners to meet up last year
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I have been messing with the same piece all weekend. It is e "relief valve" for the zero fitting.
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Boat is going to MDG Performance on Saturday for full hydraulic upgrade and carb tuning....
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You will love the solid feeling with this upgrade Scott!
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Originally Posted by R Addiction
(Post 3659249)
You will love the solid feeling with this upgrade Scott!
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Originally Posted by sleev-les
(Post 3659299)
Aside from cost, I'm pretty psyched about the upgrade.. Im def more than ready for the summer
How bad does the engine roll at idle? I doubt you will get all of it out. It's a characteristic of carbs on big blowers... Rich-lean roll. Real pain in the ass to get it in gear. Some guys disable neutral safety switches and just start it in gear like it was a crash box. |
I love that sound although I have never had to deal with it. Is it a pian to operate? Are we talking about a high surge then it almost shuts off?
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Just drop it in gear when the idle goes low.
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Originally Posted by REMEDY
(Post 3659623)
Forget the cost... It is a big safety upgrade! Especially with big power.
How bad does the engine roll at idle? I doubt you will get all of it out. It's a characteristic of carbs on big blowers... Rich-lean roll. Real pain in the ass to get it in gear. Some guys disable neutral safety switches and just start it in gear like it was a crash box.
Originally Posted by My Addiction
(Post 3659632)
I love that sound although I have never had to deal with it. Is it a pian to operate? Are we talking about a high surge then it almost shuts off?
Originally Posted by R Addiction
(Post 3659752)
Just drop it in gear when the idle goes low.
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Originally Posted by sleev-les
(Post 3659959)
It rolls to the point of almost dying. It has stalled on me when shifting into gear at the low point of the roll. If I leave a little throttle to it after the engine is warm and been running a while, it smooths out and is still under 900 rpm. Its not hard to operate otherwise. Im just not a carb guy and I figured I'd let Dave take a look at it and see if he can correct some of it.
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Originally Posted by REMEDY
(Post 3659977)
It also helps if you have a locked out distributor and control the timing with a programmable ignition box. Such as a digital msd 6. If you have any mechanical advance in the distributor it will aggrevate the problem. With a digital box you can also put a boost retard curve in with a map sensor and run more boost... more power!! :evilb::evilb:
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