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Originally Posted by safeandsound
(Post 4446350)
What drives are you running? Ext boxes, shorties? Just curious as I'm getting ready to put a 97 32 back in the water with 550 each side running -3 Ext boxes and -2 imco shorties on XRs. I'm starting with P5 31's turned down to 30s- sounds like you may have a similar setup. If 88mph is in my future I'll be pretty damn happy.
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Originally Posted by ToMorrow44
(Post 4449355)
Is the 32 you refer to the blue one currently listed in the classifieds? Looks like that one has boxes and imco lowers but the pics are small. Curious as to how it runs..?
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Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4439154)
No wood in the hull construction, so no rot to worry about. But I would have it both inspected and compression & leak down tested.
How many hours on motors? Have the valve springs been replaced? That's a great boat overall. |
1997-ish was when Pat cut over to no wood. It's Divinycell foam in place of wood that is used. Your best bet is to run the exact boat you are looking at by Pat directly, and he can answer better.
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This is probably a silly idea, but some times these work out :D
If I could open the fiberglass on the top of the transom and drill out the rotted wood sandwiched between the fiberglass, would it be possible to shoot some divinycell into the transom where the wood was and get an extremely sturdy transom out of the deal. I suspect I would need to re-fiberglass the top of the transom except for a small hole to insert the foam into. I am viewing this much like the insulation in a can where it expands to fill gaps. If this works and it was substantially cheaper and/or better than the alternative of cutting off the back of the boat and rebuilding it, there might be a sizable market for this in the boating industry. Anyone tried this? |
Originally Posted by scottgjerdingen
(Post 4457353)
This is probably a silly idea, but some times these work out :D
If I could open the fiberglass on the top of the transom and drill out the rotted wood sandwiched between the fiberglass, would it be possible to shoot some divinycell into the transom where the wood was and get an extremely sturdy transom out of the deal. I suspect I would need to re-fiberglass the top of the transom except for a small hole to insert the foam into. I am viewing this much like the insulation in a can where it expands to fill gaps. If this works and it was substantially cheaper and/or better than the alternative of cutting off the back of the boat and rebuilding it, there might be a sizable market for this in the boating industry. Anyone tried this? |
Originally Posted by scottgjerdingen
(Post 4457353)
This is probably a silly idea, but some times these work out :D
If I could open the fiberglass on the top of the transom and drill out the rotted wood sandwiched between the fiberglass, would it be possible to shoot some divinycell into the transom where the wood was and get an extremely sturdy transom out of the deal. I suspect I would need to re-fiberglass the top of the transom except for a small hole to insert the foam into. I am viewing this much like the insulation in a can where it expands to fill gaps. If this works and it was substantially cheaper and/or better than the alternative of cutting off the back of the boat and rebuilding it, there might be a sizable market for this in the boating industry. Anyone tried this? |
no boxes just bravo lwps spinning 30 b1s but my boat went over 90 when pat built it back in 2000 i would consider selling it as i dont use it near as much last few years but had it out over the 4th weekend still runs like new and 87 88 on gps boat has alot of extras done to it when built and i must say it is bad ass
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