Having fun with electric gremlins :-(
08-10-2016, 09:11 PM
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Having fun with electric gremlins :-(
I apologize in advance for the long note, I am attempting to be detailed. First – this is in reference to 1996 32’ AT
I am adding a 2nd switch panel in the cabinet above the sink. This panel was designed to leave space to transfer existing componentry on to it as is (fuse, resister, barrier strip, wires in/out) and everything being added would be new. So, all of my new stuff would also sit on the same panel but there would be zero interaction between the two.
Yesterday my port engine would not start, but the starboard side would. Not even a click when I turn the key, almost as if it was in gear, but it wasn’t. Port gauges didn’t move, all switches on the dash function properly (except for muffler ) ). Corrective steps done so far (until I can get my meter to the boat); 1) checked all fuses, 2) put dielectric grease on all connection points (there were a number of connection points I could not break free of rust/tarnish/black tar like corrosion protector), 3) reset the engine breaker, I’m not sure what this is used for, but I reset it anyways, 4) checked all fuses, 5) confirm the boat has voltage somewhere. Why would one engine start but not the other?
Further troubleshooting led me to peeking behind the instrument panel and I was surprised by how rusted and corroded the terminal barrier strip was....it also looks like a prior owner put this black tar like substance over these terminals. I was surprised that there was no fuse box and there were what look like broken pieces of brass pieced together creating a daisy chain for additional fuses. Wiring is super tight, I’m sure it looked impressive new, but now I am afraid to touch it for fear of breaking it or not being able to put back together. Anyways, about chasing down a break in circuits that may exist behind the dash, to get at wiring behind the dash, even when removing the access hatch door between the head and the back of the dash, it is really tight and a wide chested guy will find it hard to extend through enough to really be able to work (if you can stand the heat and ability to maintain that position for hours)….is there a reasonable way to take down the wall between head and dash? I found the starboard panel in the hatch pops out (is this where the contraband goes ), but that doesn’t help here.
SO bigger question first. I happen to have a new Donzi breaker panel that looks like this Attachment 558178 (upper left corner) and I am wondering if I can use this to replace the rusted and out of date electronics behind the dash (is it sacrilegious to put a Donzi part on an AT? ). It won’t be fun, actually it will suck. Benefit? Hard to measure? Question here is, “is the juice worth the squeeze”? The upside is better organization and newer components, downside…I could really mess things up and it will hurt and not be easy (unless I have a better access to the back of the dash).
Back to my initial starter switch issue. I wonder if the port side starter is sending a signal into the cabin switch panel so that some of these switches cannot be active unless the ignition is hot (i.e. either yellow hot or red hot - battery switches on+) and this circuit is looking for some form of a response back to permit the engines to start? I do know there is a switch on the dash that turns on cabin power and it lights the switches on the panel but not the lights the switches are to turn on (however the water pump works fine). Reason for speaking to the cabin electronics first is that this starter issue began while I was cleaning up existing wiring in anticipation of adding in my new circuits. Prior to this issue surfacing, I had disconnected the connectors to the switch panel, removed a stereo and amplifier that was mounted next to the switch panel. Isolated old speaker wiring from wiring coming from the behind the driver’s side dash and removed wiring from the just removed radio to the barrier strip. Everything worked fine after this. A couple days later my lady wanted to go for a ride and I knew she would freak if she saw all of these wires existing wires hanging out of the cabinet above the sink, so I rolled them all up, zip tied them and then sealed this cabinet back up without connecting anything new or removing any wires. So having done nothing beyond rolling up loose wires that were not in use, the boat should have started as it did last time, right? NOPE. I attempted to correct this doing the fundamental troubleshooting steps mentioned above.
I then hooked up the existing switch panel which had been off because I am in the process of mounting a 2nd switch panel. All existing switch lights fired up once I enabled cabin power from the dash, but power was not going to the lights these switches controlled (however the water pump was working and the switch for this is on the same panel). Unfortunately my multimeter was at home so I couldn’t test much. The only fuse like component I could not visually confirm was not blown was a resister on the existing panel, so have ordered a resister to replace it. I also went ahead and ordered a solenoid since that seems to be a fairly common failure point. I realize I have yet to test these components I am ordering, but not having history with this 20 yr. old boat, I don’t mind upgrading components that could use it….I also want them available asap in the event I do find they are need of replacement (end of summer is coming too quick to wait for parts).
Another surprise, the existing cabinet circuit board was piece of ¼” plywood with exposed barrier strips and fuses. This plywood was loosely secured in the above sink cabinet, it was essentially suspended sideways and was held up by the wires leading in/out plus extra speaker wire and harness wire (in the attached pic this plywood has been removed from the cabinet).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]558207[/ATTACH]
On the cabin board we have wires coming from behind the dash fed to the top of the strip starting on the right hand side starting with the white wire which here which is hot (isn’t it odd to use duplex with white and black - I thought were both color coding for negative?) and the ground for this is the 7th position from the left where there is a cluster of grounds. I was kinda focused on this area because it is where I did remove some stereo and amp connections since I have a new stereo and amplifiers coming in on my new circuit. I also suspected there may be some sort of connection from the radio to ignition? What is the likelihood of my issue being in the cabin wiring?
I want to order a replacement ignition switch itself but I don’t know which part to order and I don’t want to pull this to look for a part number unless absolutely necessary, it will be a b!tch to get off and back on…any parts help here would be appreciated here.
While pursuing the proper fix, is there a way to jumpstart the engine? I found this in another forum “I COULD jump between the big terminal on the solenoid and the terminal coming from the neutral safety switch whereupon the solenoid would engage and the starter would crank the motor normally.” Assuming I can locate the neutral safety switch (if I have one?), could I jump start it?...or are there better methods? I believe I also read that if I connect the yellow/red wire on the solenoid post with another power source will this jump start the engine? Not only would this keep the family from being pissed at me for breaking the boat, this would also be a clue as to where the issue is not (I suspect this mat trigger some safety comments?).
The port and starboard ignition switch are fed by a red, yellow and black wire. The starboard side also has an orange wire connected to it. I had read somewhere that this orange wire is a bit of a voltage booster bringing it up to 12v while attempting to start vs. the 9v that is sent when in all other states. Should I test this by bridge this over to the port switch?
I have a merc manual for a similar but not same engine config/wiring harness info (i.e. I have multiple flavor of the 454 7.4L vs. my modified 454 transformed to the HP450) but I have nothing beyond engine ignition, might anyone have an AT wiring diagram?
SUMMARY - Looking for feedback on;
1. Winter Project - Swapping in a breaker panel for fuses & upgrading all wiring behind the dash. Good idea/bad idea? Way too much of an undertaking? I would probably only do this if I could remove the wall between the head and backside of dash.
2. Based on what was described above, what is your best bet on why the starboard engine would work and the port would not? Is there a master/slave relationship between the two?
3. Starter ignition switch model – any part replacement recommendation?
4. Tests to be run – what order would you do these in and is my method of testing reasonable and if not can you supply options?;
a. Battery check - Voltage reading on batteries (I have 4, A&B with a battery daisy chained to each)...starboard gauge reds ~ 12v
b. Starter ignition switch - Voltage reading between ground/yellow & ground/red…if I get a reading is this good enough to validate it is good or must it be a 9 volt connection? Anything to the orange wire? Might there be a circuit from the port starter into the cabin electronics to control them that I may have somehow disconnected?
c. Solenoid - Jump start the engine somehow. Is there another/better way to test the solenoid?
d. Kill Switch - Is there an emergency kill switch does it function at the individual engine level? Any idea where I can find this?
e. Sensor - May sound odd, but is there an engine hatch sensor that won’t let the boat start with it on?...or maybe some other sensor?
f. Trace all wires from cabin back to power/ground, starting with power and ground and then into the harness.
g. Orange wire test – bridge the orange wire from the starboard ignition to the port ignition
5. Is there an easy way to take down the wall between the back of the dash and the head?
6. Any AT wiring diagrams that can be shared?...going back to 96’
Could I be so luck as to have stumbled on to a common problem to which I am the last to know the answer?
I am adding a 2nd switch panel in the cabinet above the sink. This panel was designed to leave space to transfer existing componentry on to it as is (fuse, resister, barrier strip, wires in/out) and everything being added would be new. So, all of my new stuff would also sit on the same panel but there would be zero interaction between the two.
Yesterday my port engine would not start, but the starboard side would. Not even a click when I turn the key, almost as if it was in gear, but it wasn’t. Port gauges didn’t move, all switches on the dash function properly (except for muffler ) ). Corrective steps done so far (until I can get my meter to the boat); 1) checked all fuses, 2) put dielectric grease on all connection points (there were a number of connection points I could not break free of rust/tarnish/black tar like corrosion protector), 3) reset the engine breaker, I’m not sure what this is used for, but I reset it anyways, 4) checked all fuses, 5) confirm the boat has voltage somewhere. Why would one engine start but not the other?
Further troubleshooting led me to peeking behind the instrument panel and I was surprised by how rusted and corroded the terminal barrier strip was....it also looks like a prior owner put this black tar like substance over these terminals. I was surprised that there was no fuse box and there were what look like broken pieces of brass pieced together creating a daisy chain for additional fuses. Wiring is super tight, I’m sure it looked impressive new, but now I am afraid to touch it for fear of breaking it or not being able to put back together. Anyways, about chasing down a break in circuits that may exist behind the dash, to get at wiring behind the dash, even when removing the access hatch door between the head and the back of the dash, it is really tight and a wide chested guy will find it hard to extend through enough to really be able to work (if you can stand the heat and ability to maintain that position for hours)….is there a reasonable way to take down the wall between head and dash? I found the starboard panel in the hatch pops out (is this where the contraband goes ), but that doesn’t help here.
SO bigger question first. I happen to have a new Donzi breaker panel that looks like this Attachment 558178 (upper left corner) and I am wondering if I can use this to replace the rusted and out of date electronics behind the dash (is it sacrilegious to put a Donzi part on an AT? ). It won’t be fun, actually it will suck. Benefit? Hard to measure? Question here is, “is the juice worth the squeeze”? The upside is better organization and newer components, downside…I could really mess things up and it will hurt and not be easy (unless I have a better access to the back of the dash).
Back to my initial starter switch issue. I wonder if the port side starter is sending a signal into the cabin switch panel so that some of these switches cannot be active unless the ignition is hot (i.e. either yellow hot or red hot - battery switches on+) and this circuit is looking for some form of a response back to permit the engines to start? I do know there is a switch on the dash that turns on cabin power and it lights the switches on the panel but not the lights the switches are to turn on (however the water pump works fine). Reason for speaking to the cabin electronics first is that this starter issue began while I was cleaning up existing wiring in anticipation of adding in my new circuits. Prior to this issue surfacing, I had disconnected the connectors to the switch panel, removed a stereo and amplifier that was mounted next to the switch panel. Isolated old speaker wiring from wiring coming from the behind the driver’s side dash and removed wiring from the just removed radio to the barrier strip. Everything worked fine after this. A couple days later my lady wanted to go for a ride and I knew she would freak if she saw all of these wires existing wires hanging out of the cabinet above the sink, so I rolled them all up, zip tied them and then sealed this cabinet back up without connecting anything new or removing any wires. So having done nothing beyond rolling up loose wires that were not in use, the boat should have started as it did last time, right? NOPE. I attempted to correct this doing the fundamental troubleshooting steps mentioned above.
I then hooked up the existing switch panel which had been off because I am in the process of mounting a 2nd switch panel. All existing switch lights fired up once I enabled cabin power from the dash, but power was not going to the lights these switches controlled (however the water pump was working and the switch for this is on the same panel). Unfortunately my multimeter was at home so I couldn’t test much. The only fuse like component I could not visually confirm was not blown was a resister on the existing panel, so have ordered a resister to replace it. I also went ahead and ordered a solenoid since that seems to be a fairly common failure point. I realize I have yet to test these components I am ordering, but not having history with this 20 yr. old boat, I don’t mind upgrading components that could use it….I also want them available asap in the event I do find they are need of replacement (end of summer is coming too quick to wait for parts).
Another surprise, the existing cabinet circuit board was piece of ¼” plywood with exposed barrier strips and fuses. This plywood was loosely secured in the above sink cabinet, it was essentially suspended sideways and was held up by the wires leading in/out plus extra speaker wire and harness wire (in the attached pic this plywood has been removed from the cabinet).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]558207[/ATTACH]
On the cabin board we have wires coming from behind the dash fed to the top of the strip starting on the right hand side starting with the white wire which here which is hot (isn’t it odd to use duplex with white and black - I thought were both color coding for negative?) and the ground for this is the 7th position from the left where there is a cluster of grounds. I was kinda focused on this area because it is where I did remove some stereo and amp connections since I have a new stereo and amplifiers coming in on my new circuit. I also suspected there may be some sort of connection from the radio to ignition? What is the likelihood of my issue being in the cabin wiring?
I want to order a replacement ignition switch itself but I don’t know which part to order and I don’t want to pull this to look for a part number unless absolutely necessary, it will be a b!tch to get off and back on…any parts help here would be appreciated here.
While pursuing the proper fix, is there a way to jumpstart the engine? I found this in another forum “I COULD jump between the big terminal on the solenoid and the terminal coming from the neutral safety switch whereupon the solenoid would engage and the starter would crank the motor normally.” Assuming I can locate the neutral safety switch (if I have one?), could I jump start it?...or are there better methods? I believe I also read that if I connect the yellow/red wire on the solenoid post with another power source will this jump start the engine? Not only would this keep the family from being pissed at me for breaking the boat, this would also be a clue as to where the issue is not (I suspect this mat trigger some safety comments?).
The port and starboard ignition switch are fed by a red, yellow and black wire. The starboard side also has an orange wire connected to it. I had read somewhere that this orange wire is a bit of a voltage booster bringing it up to 12v while attempting to start vs. the 9v that is sent when in all other states. Should I test this by bridge this over to the port switch?
I have a merc manual for a similar but not same engine config/wiring harness info (i.e. I have multiple flavor of the 454 7.4L vs. my modified 454 transformed to the HP450) but I have nothing beyond engine ignition, might anyone have an AT wiring diagram?
SUMMARY - Looking for feedback on;
1. Winter Project - Swapping in a breaker panel for fuses & upgrading all wiring behind the dash. Good idea/bad idea? Way too much of an undertaking? I would probably only do this if I could remove the wall between the head and backside of dash.
2. Based on what was described above, what is your best bet on why the starboard engine would work and the port would not? Is there a master/slave relationship between the two?
3. Starter ignition switch model – any part replacement recommendation?
4. Tests to be run – what order would you do these in and is my method of testing reasonable and if not can you supply options?;
a. Battery check - Voltage reading on batteries (I have 4, A&B with a battery daisy chained to each)...starboard gauge reds ~ 12v
b. Starter ignition switch - Voltage reading between ground/yellow & ground/red…if I get a reading is this good enough to validate it is good or must it be a 9 volt connection? Anything to the orange wire? Might there be a circuit from the port starter into the cabin electronics to control them that I may have somehow disconnected?
c. Solenoid - Jump start the engine somehow. Is there another/better way to test the solenoid?
d. Kill Switch - Is there an emergency kill switch does it function at the individual engine level? Any idea where I can find this?
e. Sensor - May sound odd, but is there an engine hatch sensor that won’t let the boat start with it on?...or maybe some other sensor?
f. Trace all wires from cabin back to power/ground, starting with power and ground and then into the harness.
g. Orange wire test – bridge the orange wire from the starboard ignition to the port ignition
5. Is there an easy way to take down the wall between the back of the dash and the head?
6. Any AT wiring diagrams that can be shared?...going back to 96’
Could I be so luck as to have stumbled on to a common problem to which I am the last to know the answer?
08-10-2016, 09:22 PM
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lanyard attached?
No idea how bastardized it has been, but the engine nd gauges should come off the the main harness. additional wiring for everything else is just that. So you should be able to isoolate the main harness loom and troubleshoot from there. Google merc 10 pin harness colors and that should get you started. purple ignition, yellow with red stripe neutral switch
No idea how bastardized it has been, but the engine nd gauges should come off the the main harness. additional wiring for everything else is just that. So you should be able to isoolate the main harness loom and troubleshoot from there. Google merc 10 pin harness colors and that should get you started. purple ignition, yellow with red stripe neutral switch
Last edited by phragle; 08-10-2016 at 09:26 PM.
08-10-2016, 09:42 PM
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Thanks Phragle - this makes me really interested to find fuse A....and there appears to be nothing here going into the cabin or "accessorieis" area
I am not aware of a kill switch on the boat, Now there is this odd looking thing below the dash and next to the halon monitor/gauge that I have no idea what it might be. It is possible this thing that kinda looks like a 90 degree triangle glued to something the size of a plastic guage is a kill switch? I know I have seen these on other boats but I have no clue what they are....either way, I have never before run this boat with a lanyard attached.
Oh my gosh (not exactly the phrase I just used). I searched on kill switch and I saw the aftermarket ones I am used to, after scrolling further through google images of kill switches, SOB...I have a kill switch I have and have never used. Might I have previously and accidently have fixed something? I wonder if something had been wedged in the switch to keep it from going off and this recently broke free? why would a kill switch kill the port engine but not the starboard? I need to look, but I would not be shocked to hear that at some point in time the kill switch was disabled. I need to see how this is wired.,
I am not aware of a kill switch on the boat, Now there is this odd looking thing below the dash and next to the halon monitor/gauge that I have no idea what it might be. It is possible this thing that kinda looks like a 90 degree triangle glued to something the size of a plastic guage is a kill switch? I know I have seen these on other boats but I have no clue what they are....either way, I have never before run this boat with a lanyard attached.
Oh my gosh (not exactly the phrase I just used). I searched on kill switch and I saw the aftermarket ones I am used to, after scrolling further through google images of kill switches, SOB...I have a kill switch I have and have never used. Might I have previously and accidently have fixed something? I wonder if something had been wedged in the switch to keep it from going off and this recently broke free? why would a kill switch kill the port engine but not the starboard? I need to look, but I would not be shocked to hear that at some point in time the kill switch was disabled. I need to see how this is wired.,
08-10-2016, 11:30 PM
#4
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If the gauges didn't move, you have no power to the key switch.
Most likely tripped the 50amp breaker on the engine or blew the 90amp fuse at the starter.
The black stuff is like liquid electrical tape and from the factory that way.
As for "that wall" it is bulk head and structural.
Most likely tripped the 50amp breaker on the engine or blew the 90amp fuse at the starter.
The black stuff is like liquid electrical tape and from the factory that way.
As for "that wall" it is bulk head and structural.
Last edited by Griff; 08-10-2016 at 11:33 PM.
08-12-2016, 05:59 AM
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I believe my HP 450 configuration is one without a fuse of sorts at the starter. I was aware of the breaker and did reset that. I did take a closer look and sure enough I do have a kill switch and it was in the closed position. I also checked on the neutral position switches making sure all looked connected and while there I tidied up some wiring. I also went and pulled every fuse I could find to make sure none were blown and to also allow me to clean up the fuse holders.
There has got to be a clue here somewhere. I replaced the relay I was suspect of and then went to try to start the port engine and what do you know, it fired right up. I then fired up the starboard engine and , whoops, the starboard engine would not start now? Exact same symptoms; turn the key and nothing. My problem somehow swapped sides on me. I went back and checked the fuses and one had blown. The fuse that blew was one that ended up powering lights in the cabin. So now when I attempt to start the starboard engine I blow a fuse connected to a line bringing power into the cabin...and the engine won't start.
SO, mechanically both engines are fine and will start, given the proper instructions. Before the port engine would not start, this problem has shifted over to the starboard engine.
In the cabin, the original switch panel is working. The new switch panel I added in the cabin is also working. This panel is for light weight dc stuff like a tv, usb charger, some spare cigarette lighter power connectors and about half is currently not in use. This is connected by it's own 8 gauge power line. As soon as 4 gauge wire arrives I will run a couple more lines from battery to stereo amplifier (I want high power lines isolated from one another, from the new switch panel as well as the original one). I realize there are more economical and efficient ways to design the config, but I want to keep it simple and understandable.
I can only think of one thing I did that could have moved the problem from one engine to another. When cleaning up some of the wiring behind the dash I disconnected and reconnected connectors with 2 sets of wires coming off the shifter control. If those wires are the neutral indicator and if I intended to reconnected wires P2P & S2S however I actually connected P2S & S2P, if one of the P (port) wires was "bad" theoretically those could have moved the problem from port to starboard. I however do not believe i did this, I was intentional in only opening one set of connectors at a time.
So, kill switch is fine, neutral indicator is questionable, all other starter parts are work and engines working, I guess this leaves me with a wiring gremlin. too.
oh, possibly one more clue, my auto bilge pump is not working, manual still works (auto was working on just a few days ago). The light is out on the auto bilge switch on the dash too (I could not get the light behind the dash to turn on either).
The stereo switch on the dash will light up when turned on, but since I removed the stereo, I wonder what this is powering? This probably leads into the cabin and may be one of the wires coming off the dash that are no longer connected to anything now that the stereo has been removed. What should I do with these wires that are connected to a buss but no longer have a corresponding connection...how would I simulate a radio's response or cap them off properly?
There has got to be a clue here somewhere. I replaced the relay I was suspect of and then went to try to start the port engine and what do you know, it fired right up. I then fired up the starboard engine and , whoops, the starboard engine would not start now? Exact same symptoms; turn the key and nothing. My problem somehow swapped sides on me. I went back and checked the fuses and one had blown. The fuse that blew was one that ended up powering lights in the cabin. So now when I attempt to start the starboard engine I blow a fuse connected to a line bringing power into the cabin...and the engine won't start.
SO, mechanically both engines are fine and will start, given the proper instructions. Before the port engine would not start, this problem has shifted over to the starboard engine.
In the cabin, the original switch panel is working. The new switch panel I added in the cabin is also working. This panel is for light weight dc stuff like a tv, usb charger, some spare cigarette lighter power connectors and about half is currently not in use. This is connected by it's own 8 gauge power line. As soon as 4 gauge wire arrives I will run a couple more lines from battery to stereo amplifier (I want high power lines isolated from one another, from the new switch panel as well as the original one). I realize there are more economical and efficient ways to design the config, but I want to keep it simple and understandable.
I can only think of one thing I did that could have moved the problem from one engine to another. When cleaning up some of the wiring behind the dash I disconnected and reconnected connectors with 2 sets of wires coming off the shifter control. If those wires are the neutral indicator and if I intended to reconnected wires P2P & S2S however I actually connected P2S & S2P, if one of the P (port) wires was "bad" theoretically those could have moved the problem from port to starboard. I however do not believe i did this, I was intentional in only opening one set of connectors at a time.
So, kill switch is fine, neutral indicator is questionable, all other starter parts are work and engines working, I guess this leaves me with a wiring gremlin. too.
oh, possibly one more clue, my auto bilge pump is not working, manual still works (auto was working on just a few days ago). The light is out on the auto bilge switch on the dash too (I could not get the light behind the dash to turn on either).
The stereo switch on the dash will light up when turned on, but since I removed the stereo, I wonder what this is powering? This probably leads into the cabin and may be one of the wires coming off the dash that are no longer connected to anything now that the stereo has been removed. What should I do with these wires that are connected to a buss but no longer have a corresponding connection...how would I simulate a radio's response or cap them off properly?
08-12-2016, 07:37 AM
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Stop. Back away from the wire cutters, Sit down and study those schematics. Dont overly complicate things.
The schematics are nothing more than a Rand McNally road atlas. You happy little electron wants to go from point A to point B. All you have to do is look at the map, find the route, then follow it and look for the pot hole/orange barrels thats screwing up your happy electrons journey.
With the stereo, find out where the starting point is on your happy little electrons journey. Mr Electron starts somewhere (initial power supply)then he goes to a gate (the switch) when you open the gate (flip the switch) he goes thru the gate to his work station (the stereo) When he done with work for the day he goes home (ground). You removed his work station. Mr Electron still gets up every morning and goes to the gate thinking he has to go to work. Since you removed his work station, you need to find out where he goes when you open the gate, because if he cant get to his work station he will get bored and try to cause trouble because electrons dont like to sit still.
The schematics are nothing more than a Rand McNally road atlas. You happy little electron wants to go from point A to point B. All you have to do is look at the map, find the route, then follow it and look for the pot hole/orange barrels thats screwing up your happy electrons journey.
With the stereo, find out where the starting point is on your happy little electrons journey. Mr Electron starts somewhere (initial power supply)then he goes to a gate (the switch) when you open the gate (flip the switch) he goes thru the gate to his work station (the stereo) When he done with work for the day he goes home (ground). You removed his work station. Mr Electron still gets up every morning and goes to the gate thinking he has to go to work. Since you removed his work station, you need to find out where he goes when you open the gate, because if he cant get to his work station he will get bored and try to cause trouble because electrons dont like to sit still.
08-12-2016, 08:20 AM
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I have to play with my shifter sometimes, back and forth to get it to crank, not sure if twins have separate nuetral switches to each coresponding engine, because only have a single in my little boat. Can't afford a big boy toy yet
08-12-2016, 10:21 AM
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08-12-2016, 02:38 PM
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Rest assured, I am not cutting any wires intentionally, I just nicked one trying to cut off a zip tie that was preventing me from tracing other wires.
I can just imagine your cartoon bubble's with an image of a guy snipping all wires behind the dash while chasing what is probably a very minor issue....and then wondering why he can't figure it out.
Question - the multimeter I am using auto calibrates and I see that some wires I am testing are reading very low volts (e.g. 3.X - 0.XX) . What does this mean? 1) "static" on the line, 2) intended amount of voltage, 3) some circuit is "leaking", 4) other?
I can just imagine your cartoon bubble's with an image of a guy snipping all wires behind the dash while chasing what is probably a very minor issue....and then wondering why he can't figure it out.
Question - the multimeter I am using auto calibrates and I see that some wires I am testing are reading very low volts (e.g. 3.X - 0.XX) . What does this mean? 1) "static" on the line, 2) intended amount of voltage, 3) some circuit is "leaking", 4) other?
