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Keeping engine hatch down
What are you guys doing with the engine hatches with the hydraulic rams. Ours in rough water will lift about 2" up and drop very hard bc the rams dont hold actual pressure down.
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Mine does the same thing on my 31. I just crank it down with the rams. Ultimatly we should switch to a normal ram and ditch the hydraulics. What I don't understand is that my hatch is so heavy it takes four people to lift it and it still pops open I wondered if it was the way my vents are on the outside of the boat pushing air in with no place to go.
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I think its the weight that makes in come open bc its actually jumping up and hanging in the air. Im going to price linear actuators, but was uncertain of the actual weight of the hatch. Also im going to look for some hidden latches i can use, but i dont really want to have to get up and twist or unhook something to open it up.
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No ideas or fixes??? I would have been sure other people have corrected this issue.
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I hold the switch for a few seconds after it is down and that does the trick unless the water is real rough.
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yeah that doesnt work to well. When 36' skaters are running next to you and you can see there #6's all the way out of the water, that hatch is taking a beating!!
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Try cycling the rams open and close a few times to try and purge air. There might be just enough air in the middle lines to make it spongey.
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we have used electric openers since 1999
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Originally Posted by quest
(Post 2859893)
we have used electric openers since 1999
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what boat do you have. a 2600, NSX or a 3100 and what year. if it is a 2600 is the rear seat part of the engine hatch.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by gtsmpuc
(Post 2825485)
What are you guys doing with the engine hatches with the hydraulic rams. Ours in rough water will lift about 2" up and drop very hard bc the rams dont hold actual pressure down.
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its a 2600, the seat is attached to the engine hatch and the whole part while lift up when hit good sized rollers
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Originally Posted by gtsmpuc
(Post 2859411)
No ideas or fixes??? I would have been sure other people have corrected this issue.
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I dont know if they would work how the hatch comes down. I was looking for something a little more technical and tricky. Like maybe running some door lock solenoids and some hiddens pins on the back side. I just figued somebody else already did something and i was just going to copy them!
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I bet your ram is shoot or u have air in it !!!!!!!!!
Think about it ,,,if a hydraulic ram does that then your drives would be all over the place !!!! Same system !!! Just fix the ram and u be ok !!:ernaehrung004: |
It doesnt seem like the ram is bad, maybe one of the solenoids isnt holding properly. I never really checked how the lines ran, i just figured that maybe on the system that getting it bled fully or getting rid of the slop may not be possible. Hydraulcis seem to always have some play in them.
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We all have the same problem. Low pressure hydraulic system. Crank it down tight and the problem goes away. Or switch to mech lift.
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Originally Posted by el indio
(Post 2863227)
fool proof.
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We have the same problem with our boat hatch. I have been thinking about an electro-magnetic door lock, which could be connected to the hatch switch and release when you open the hatch or you can connect it to the on position on your ignition switch it would only hold when you were running. You could mount it to the hatch in the middle and have the plate attached to the floor.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#electromagn...-locks/=1uvd1j. |
Originally Posted by wuped
(Post 2865228)
We have the same problem with our boat hatch. I have been thinking about an electro-magnetic door lock, which could be connected to the hatch switch and release when you open the hatch or you can connect it to the on position on your ignition switch it would only hold when you were running. You could mount it to the hatch in the middle and have the plate attached to the floor.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#electromagn...-locks/=1uvd1j. |
I agree it would be easier but he would need two 24' rams @ $250.00 each, it gets a little expensive. Unless you know where to get them for less.
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Originally Posted by wuped
(Post 2865324)
I agree it would be easier but he would need two 24' rams @ $250.00 each, it gets a little expensive. Unless you know where to get them for less.
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I would like to switch mine to make it easier to reach the outside of each motor.
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Originally Posted by wuped
(Post 2865228)
We have the same problem with our boat hatch. I have been thinking about an electro-magnetic door lock, which could be connected to the hatch switch and release when you open the hatch or you can connect it to the on position on your ignition switch it would only hold when you were running. You could mount it to the hatch in the middle and have the plate attached to the floor.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#electromagn...-locks/=1uvd1j. :coolcowboy: |
There has to be a leak somewhere. Leave the hatch open for a day and see if it bleads off and comes down any.
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