24' Outlaw with 650hp
 

Looking at putting a Tall Deck 650hp in my 24' Outlaw.
Any advice on prop sizes?
What kind of speeds will I see? 80's?
Yes, I will be upgrading the outdrive.

I ran 77 gps in my 24 Outlaw which had around 550 hp. So that being said I recommend you add an extension box and a better drive and you should see around 85-88 once it is totally dialed in.

As for props I would start with a 30" Bravo 1.

I guess propeller sellection would be best decided upon once you figure out what you are going to do outside the boat first.
I'm with smitty on the extension box. I'd slam on a shorttie drive while you are at it.
I'm going to spin 5 blade 30s on 1:36 gears.
Call Brett Anderson @ Bblades. He knows what he is doing. Trained by the best, Dennis Cavanaugh of Mercury Racing.

I was running right up to 650 hp in a warmed (and chilled) 525SC. I was seeing almost 80 with her....Never really had a chance to GPS or radar it.

It was ****IN SCARY FAST!!!

Loved that boat.

I ran a 4 blade 28 pitch on it. Stock bravo with hydrolic steering. Never blew a drive:eek: But did blow a motor:( Sucked a valve...Water in the exhaust. That hurt the check book.:eek:

Looks like you had a '97 also. Even have the same color scheme.
We even had the same mechanical problem, a Sucked Valve from water in the exhaust. lol

Our boats were seperated at birth!:eek: :drink:

It was agreat boat, ran like a raped ape....Liked to chine a "bit" in the upper 70's. Had GIL dry pipes on it too...Loud as a MO-FO!:eek: :drink:

My 1993 24ol runs about 74 on gps with around 500 hp at the prop. Thats with a labbed 26 bravo 1 at 5250. I got my prop back from julie a couple weeks ago. They let out a little pitch to settle down my chine walking.

There's a guy (cant remember his screen name) on TBM that ran 115 mph in his 24 OL. BIG HP though. :eek:

That guy has a hammer or something not an Outlaw. And he's running 1150 hp :eek: :eek: :eek:

I'm turning a 30p bravo worked by Julie. I'm around that HP,running 85mph gps at 5200rpm.

Any problems with Chine walk???
What size tabs are you running?

Yes, boat liked to chine in the high 60's/and 70's. You had to drop some tab. But of course, when you drop tab, you loose top end. I noticed the boat wouldn't chine until you got into a little chop or a wake that started you to rock. Mine had the stock, twin rammed tabs.

Deep Vee, no pad....It's the old saying "It's like balancing a bowling ball on a razor blade".

Hydraulic steering will take care of the chine walk. You need it if you're going to run that fast.

No it won't. It makes running faster safer because there is no cable to break & no tiller arm to break. :drink:

Well, I was planning on the twin ram steering, but I will be running in the GOM down here in SW Florida. Don't get many days that are flat calm here. A lot of 2-3 days, with some days bigger and some days smaller. But I was always told if you want to run 60 mph all day long, have a motor that will run 80 mph.
Thank you everybody for all of the imput. The first of next week I start the transformation from stock to modified. I will keep you updated on the progress.
Tank, love your old boat!!! Once Baja, always Baja!

It took care of My chine walking. I agree on the safety factor.

before my sh&t was stolen I got out for a couple of test runs with a 2'' shortie and new carb on my 509 650 hp add on steering going to full. with the add on it still chine walked above 75gps, I hit 83.2 with 75 to 80 gals 2 foot chop at 5900rpm to 6000rpm with a 26 b1, but you have to fight the walk:eek: . I hope when its back together with a bigger prop to hit 86 or so. about the box I was told no boats to short. but a guy in germany has the 25ol with a 525 3'' raised box and is hitting 81. mine is a 24ol 88. if you look up pics of my boat you can see what I did or call me, I have made changes since I bought it in 1990:rolleyes: :p art ps the shortie made it handle the rough water better flys level and add the 380 k planes to.

I would go with the tall deck say the 598 will get you easy 700 to 750,nice nickerson carb talk to jc performance, wazzup racing smitty, or tyler crocket engines there great guys all three. thats my nexted motor some day 598 850 hp I want to hit the 90s:D

Looks like the motor will be done the end of this week, first of next week. Decided to stick with the 454 block as most of it was in great shape. So, bigger cam, new exhaust, new intake and carb, new ignition(distributer), roller rockers, ...
Should be in the 550-575hp when it's done.

If anyone is interested in a "Cool Fuel" MPI fuel injection system, let me know. Mine is for sale.

Motor is done, 10 hours break-in time is done, time to start figuring out the prop selection.
This is what I am working with ...
Cam is a little hotter than a 500hp, 750 Demon dual feed carb, Merc Thunderbolt Ignition/Distributor, Revolution Marine Exhaust Manifolds, 4" Pipes, ...
Broke the motor in varying rpm's up to 3500. 22" 4 blade barely hooked-up, went to a 26" 4-Blade. Could not keep it hooked-up. Tried the original 3-blade 23" and as long as it was trimmed in and very slowly accelerated it would stay hooked-up.
My best speed was 59mph at 4000rpm with the 26 when it hooked-up once hit a small wave and so much for being hooked-up.
How much bigger should I go? 27" 3-blade? 28" 4-blade? Bigger???

I use to spin a 26b1 at 5100 to 5200 with stock drive with a 650hp. now it was hitting 6000 at 83 with a 2'' shortie before the drive was stolen. you should try a rev 4 25p if you have 550hp . I ran a 25mirage with 400hp to 4700, at 580hp 5600. you can test props with BBLADES ask BRETT. THE STOCK OLBAJAS LIKE THE REV 4 AND IF YOU HAVE 500 TO 550HP A 25P SHOULD WORK FINE YOU SHOULD SEE 70 TO 73, ARTIE

A 28 4 BLADE YOU WILL SEE 3600RPMS YOU NEED A 25REV 4 THE 26 IS TO BIG FOR YOUR MOTOR IF ITS ONLY HITTING 4000rpm

During the break-in time I only ran it up to 4000rpm a couple of times. The motor had a lot more rpm left to go. Just couldn't keep the prop from cavitating.

I was wondering if the 4 blade is lifting the back end of the boat? In comparison to the 3-blade?

Those hulls need bow lift. That is where the 4 blade comes in. I think you need a bigger pitch, around a 27 or 28. If you're really putting out that much power you'll be closer to a 30p.

Yes, they need tons of bow lift. Adding blades will lift the stern. I haven't tried any 3 blade props yet but would like to. I'd bet you could spin a non-labbed 30 right out of the box. If not, some mild tweaking would probably get you there.

when I had 580hp I could only spin a 28 to 4800, when we put the 650hp motor in with stock drive height we were getting 5200 with a 26 b1 with the 2''shortie and carb change making 670hp we are at 6000rpm with a 26 b1 83,2gps going to a 28 lab. when the boat is back together. you could try a 27mirage plus through BBLADDES PROP PROGRAM its like 20 bucks to try aeach prop the b1 WORKS BETTER WITH A HIGHER DRIVE HEIGHT, THE MIRAGE OR THE REV 4 WORKS BETTER WITH STOCK HEIGHT. I have tryed most of them over the last 18yrs I started witha 330hp, then a 93 502 390hp, 580hp, 595 hp, 509 650 hp, 670 hp. so I hope this helps oh when you said 4000 rpm I thought that was your max. if your slipping at 4000 it could be to much trim. good luck and check with BBLADDES.

HAS ANYONE PUT A EX BOX ON A 24?? i THINK i AM THE ONLY ONE TO TRY A 2'' SHORTIE AND IT WORKED GREAT.but now that it was stolen I am thinking about a ex box with the bult in 3'' lift and no shortie, put artic put one on a 27baja and hated it. so I may just go with a new shortie again.:rolleyes:

Hey Air Time,
The best run was with the motor barely trimmed out. I mean a quick touch to the trim button. I was thinking a 3-blade 27 or 29. Will let you know how it works out.
Thanks for the input. Calling BBlades today.

I'm using a Stern Jack. Same principle I think with less work. It was worth 3 mph before the procharger. ( Right Shoe?)

Guess I just have to add something, here. As you know, I´m totally convinced about the improvements in handling and speed that the 3" lift box have added to my 25OL. However, I was beginning to believe that the 4 1/2" prop to pad dimension that I am running was as high as I should want to go.
Then a buddy of mine with a similarly configured, but longer boat (29 Aerotek - pad bottom, notched transom), who had already fitted a 3" lift box after seeing the success on mine, decided to raise his drive even further. He has gone up from a similar 5" dimension up another 2"!
With only 3" prop to pad, his boat runs even faster, and he says the handling is even better. He runs a TPM 900 motor and is still pulling hard at over 90 mph (also using a labbed 28" Bravo, but on a 1.36 Imco SC drive)
What I´m saying is that two different boat/motor settups really responded well to the Imco box.
I can imagine the 24OL would work good too.

You may want to get with Don Carter at Offshore Performance Specialties here in south Ft Myers about prop selection. He's great to work with. Where do you do your boating here? We're usually hangin' out at the Lani Kai.

Hey Kennyo,
I miss party cove at Priest. Not quite the same atmosphere down here. Saw Checkmate's buddy Brian out running his Pantera the other day.

Who is this?

Haven't heard of a 24 ol with a box yet, it might work or it might suk,the bottom of my 272 is different then a 25 or 24 so it can't really be compared , as far as a 24 with a box,it's one of those "unknown" things. I'm surprized your bud was able to go so high. My prop centerline was 7.5" stock,the plus 1" with the box made mine cavitate and bow steer,blow prop out,wouldn't carry the bow well cruising in rough water,a 1" spacer got rid of 80% of the problems the box created but slowed my boat down 3-5 mph more,the box had already slowed it down 3-5mph too. I still might try a shortie drive this year after I re-establish my base line. A 24 O/L is short so it shouldn't have much problem carrying the bow but 1 foot back might drasticlly change the c/g also. I sold my box to a guy with a 25 O/L in wis,I haven't heard his results yet,Smitty

i THINK YOUR 27 hull is only 25ft my friends had 89 250 s one had a90 270 same boat hull was only 25ft mine is the real 24ft 240ol not the lake boat 226 which is now a 240. and the 2'' shortie gave me with a carb change alot. I still had the chine walk over 75 to 83 put you got to drive it I hope with the full hdy steering on it will stop altogether. I just order a new B1X DRIVE and going to order the box or the lower shortie nexted.

did you have to change your tail pipes too re cut?? thanks art

Yeah, I assembled the whole drive and motor with the raised front mounts that I had made up and fitted the tailpipes to the CMI´s, and then marked out the new postions on the transom.
The pieces that I cut out with the hole saw I reused to fill the old holes in the transom.
You can´t really see any sign that the old motor lived 3" nearer to the bilge. A high x dimension is a real bonus on a single - the access to the lower parts of the motor, raw water pump, the depthfinder sender and the bilge pump is sooo easy!

@ Smitty. Your problem with cavitation really did surprise me. None of my props show any signs of it. You can throw my boat into a 75 mph turn with the trim still up for speed and it won´t cavitate at all.
The handling is awesome!

well I will stick with the shortie 2'', I already filled the holes in once when I went to S/M dry ex the pipes were raiosed 4'' from the factory that way my pipes are a foot above the water now. I am going polished this time:D with the lower. order the drive mon, 07 b1 x. artie

(Hint): Saw you, Butch, and Corey at bike week. Used to live with Butch and run around with Sharon.