24 Outlaw floor
 

Just back from LOTO and also have hit some rough spots here ath there in the river. I have noticed a seam in the carpet. If i lean on the driver bolster the floor will come up a little. What is the best way to repair it and is anyone fimiliar with it's construction? Should i replace the floor boards. And where can i get marine grade plywood. Also i would most likely have to replace the carpet. Where can i get that too?

you need to take rug up, then there will be screws a long the center floor on both side also back seat needs to come out. I think the center board is 5/8s or 3/4. if you just want to replace it you can get marine or good plywood cover it in 1 to two coats of glass or mat seal the edges and reinstall. what I did before covering with glass I measured where my seats stand screwed into the floor and cut a piece of 4x4 to glass under and also used it as ribs to stregthen the center floor then caulked the lips and put the floor back down, you could also threw bolt the seat stand before you reinstall it. for rug you can call r&r textile in georgia they sell to baja/ formula/ fountain/ cig and so on its there 40oz carpet you want with no backing so you can glue it down. the trouble with glued rugs it phucks up the floors. you are better off to fit the new floor close caulk it and paint it with grit paint, deck paint and get a pull out rug. good luck art

I have always wanted the hard style fiberglass floor. I am very interested in doing this now. But all the walls and sides have carpet. What do i do there. How do i break between carpet and white floor. Where do i get this stuff and how do i apply it. I Have all winter. But i think im going to need to speak with you airtime over the phone.

I'm sure your floor construction is very similar to what mine was, in that it is only a piece of 1/2 plywood over top of some two-part urethane foam. I'm to the point where I will be doing the stringers from the engine bulkhead forward and will be adding an additional stringer between the main stringer and out chine, as well as some lateral stringers between them on the hull and just below the floor. Should be picking back up on the project again in the next few weeks. Unfortrunately I was so pissed off when I ripped the floor up awhile back I forgot to take any pictures of what it looked like.

If you have to replace the floor then you'll need some fiberglass cloth, mat and resin. Cloth/biax tape on the seams and mat everywhere else, probably a good two-three layers to level out where you put the tape. Then sand your ass off to get it somewhat smooth, gel coat, sand, gel coat, sand and buff. I wouldn't mess with the walls that already have carpet on them. I'd bring the gel up about an inch on the sides, then get some new carpet, have the bottom edge serger'd and glue it back down to the sides/gunnels.

I have a ton of pics if you want any pm me and I will email them to you. they are of new structure since there was nothing left of the old. Problem is that if the floor is going, usually so is the stringers, transom, and bulk heads.

+1.

What hull are your pics from?

Same hull as you. Seems to be the common rotter.

You've got that right. I'd like to see your pics, do you have a photobucket account?

No but I have been planning on setting one up. Maybe I should stop being so cheap and just pay for a membership so I can put up some pics. :lolhit: Anyway FIXXXER plenty of people here that have been or are going through it so plenty of help, Just ask. Good luck, it can become a lot of work real quick and expensive.

617 833 3327 PHONE FOR ANYONE:bigbird:, RUG IS EASY it breaks at the sides anyway. if I keep mine I PUT RIBS down the side to stop the flexing of the gunnel next would be a coring board to glass or bolt on the sides so you could vinly it as a panel with a opening to storage. I have a friend that took a 4x8 sheet of teak with the stripe of yellow wood between it shaped it out to fit on top of his floor and screwed it in that looked cool too.

my main floor is fine but back in 01 I change the middle piece which Isaid is screwed down on top of the stringers and mine was thicker than 1/2, like I said you can use coring to lighten up or plywood marine or other cover with mat and glass a full wrap to protect the edges. so on. art

there is a slightly sunk stringer on the port side of the engine. as far as the floor.... I belive the bolster pulled it up. It was until monday that it really became apparent. i hit a wave really really really wrong and it spit me up real high in the bow and on the star side. I have many bruises and i bent the steering wheel just holding on. the bolster pulled up the floor from me being in it. I did not see it comming. I was going too fast for sure but there was no traffic. I was just near a boat ramp and i think that is where the sideways wave came from.

I am going to need to talk to you. I am working with a friend on heated storage this winter. so i can take the job on. I want to fix the boat but i really want the white fiberglass floor.

Thanks for the pictures and the advise.

So i'm guessing the bulkhead is the second support where the stringers tie into. (kind of like a second transom but at the front). i have taken the exhaust tips, drive and gimbal ring out, engine and am going to start on the floor. I am going to carpet it again but i would like to install new wood and do not know where to buy it. Also, i have received some pics and i saw the stringers looked similar to what came in the boat. Is there any upgrade options? can i use a bigger sections of wood and can i box it off so water does not sit on the outside of the stringers. i think that is a big problem also. no matter what if i am swimming or we are jumping in and out of the boat i get water on the outside of the stringers that hold the engine mounts. it has no drain and nowhere to go. I know that is not good.

anyways i have a sunk stringer on the port side of the engine. the engine mount sunk into it. I was also looking at the offshore cradle style mount for the bbc. but how do you align the drive and engine with that style of mount? Anyways, AIR TIME... I will be calling. I can do anything as long as i am taught. I have never worked with fiberglass but i know i can learn. And the boat could not be at a better place. heated garage with a 5000 square foot woodshop below it.

oh yeah, the transom looks really good. lots of caulk and sealant. also the pink gelcoat is inside the holes so, i think someone may have done some preventative maintainance?????

You can drill drain holes in the new stringer, just seal them good with resin before you gelcoat/paint them. If you want to use offshore mounts you will have to move the stringers out quite a bit.

I see... Hey, our engines are identical. same risers, manifolds, valve covers, intake. How is yours running for ya?

Not my motor, just a pic I had saved. :D