I had the EXACT same problem, turn key and hear "click" but starter didnt spin, after 3-6 times it would start, the WEIRD thing was once engine was "warm" it would start on first turn of the key.

Was told it was "probably" the slave solenoid, so, I changed it. Made NO difference, 60 year Father spent 2 hours with a toothbrush and a cup of water with baking soda in it cleaning all the starter/battery/cables. Boat has started on the first turn of the key for the last month, hot OR cold. It can sit for a week and still starts right up. I had checked the battery connections BEFORE Dad cleaned them, everything was tight and didnt look corroded

Cheap fix, and now I have a spare slave solenoid!
Thanks Pops!

Michael

I'm pretty sure mine has always started when warm also on the first try. Sounds like identical behavior.

There's a test procedure in my service manual for the slave, gonna do that and clean things up as several have recommended. Thanks!

I see you're in Oshawa, I'm in Etobicoke. Maybe it's our air here or something!

Did the slave test today in the Merc manual, where you energize the 2 small terminals with a 12v source, and check for continuity between the 2 large terminals. There was continuity, but a different value every time I energized it.

Which makes me think it might be slightly corroded, blackened, inside. Gonna replace it since they're cheap, (and it's 15 years old) and do the terminal cleanups as many of you suggested.

Was a bastard to get out of the bottom of the Mercathode box too. :)

That little bolt that holds the reset breaker in the Mercathode box is a *****, top one is easy, bottom was a nitemare!

I changed mine too, even though it was "fine" I figured while I had it apart for the sake of $20, and as you say its 15 years old, cheap insurance

Michael

I live in Oshawa (sadly!) but, boat in the Kingston area (1000 Islands) air is MUCH nicer here!

Yeah, I got it out without removing the CB, as the lower nut looked like hell to get out. Can't believe I didn't lose any hardware in there, as the box is barely wide enough to get a hand in.... :)

I ended up blowing the head off the CB bolt with a cutoff wheel, after going at it for about an hour with hand tools! I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and a long extension to loosen the nuts, and had a telescoping magnet to pick up the nuts........which I dropped about a dozen times.

Check this out. On Google somewhere, I saw a PDF of a guy who took a slave solenoid apart, so I thought, what the hell. All you have to do is bend the tabs of the backplate out, undo the nuts, and gently tap everything out.

Here are pics of mine..... see any problems? The one output pin is almost completely black, and the disc is half assed too.

Anyway, cleaned 'er up with sandpaper, and put it back together. When I do the Merc test now, continuity is always the same value. Wouldn't be surprised if that was my only issue judging from the condition. Like I said, 15 years and multiple starts, not too hard to believe.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...y/IMG_2222.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...y/IMG_2220.jpg

Just to follow up from my original post..... slave solenoid was the culprit. Have not had a starting issue now in 3 or 4 starts. Best part..... free fix!

Bajapred, you were right on the money with this one!

Puzzle, mine is doing the same here too. Seems to be getting worse now as when it is cold it may take 4 or 5 tries to get it to catch. I always just wiggled the neutral lever and thought it might be that. How long was the process to pull this and clean and re-install. Heading to the Kongston poker run in the morning. Will need to tackle tonight after work..

Yeah, I used to wiggle the lever too thinking it might be that, but I think it would start after the third or fourth attempt due to heating the solenoid from the attempts..... just a theory. Is working perfectly now.

Getting the solenoid out and back in was the hardest part due to access. Mine is mounted on the bottom of the Mercathode box (the one with the large 50A breaker on the front with a hinged lid). Mine is located beneath that breaker.

Pulling the solenoid apart is relatively easy. There was a PDF online somewhere where the guy described it, with pictures. But basically, you just bend the tabs outward on the back plate, remove all the nuts from the studs, and gently tap the studs out. Be careful with the small copper wires which go to the small studs, they're soldered on. The large studs have nothing attached. Then you just have to clean all the copper contact surfaces, and reassemble. I used a vise to clamp the tabs back together on the back plate, as it takes some force.

I'd say you can do the entire job in a couple hours.

Alternatively, the solenoids are relatively inexpensive from a dealer too. I think around $20 for a Sierra, $30 or so for a Merc.

Have fun at the PR, I wanted to bring the Baja down but my buddies are a pain in the ass!