Problem - smoke, rumbling
 

Took the 272 out yesterday for the first trip of the year, and it was cut short.

After planing for about 3 minutes or so, there was smoke coming out of the back of the boat and a heavy rumbling. At first I thought it was the engine, but I opened the hatch and a lot of smoke came up from the back of the engine. And it smelled like hot steel. Everything on the engine looked fine. Shut her down, let it cool for a while. Started it up, and at low speeds operated correctly, but still had a rumbling noise. If I trim it anywhere from straight out, the noise increases dramatically.

So, I'm guessing the universal joint maybe? I bought the boat two years ago, and have never had the drive off, and I don't really know if the PO ever maintained it to that level. There's a zerk on the outside of the Gimbal housing (which I believe is only for the gimbal bearing) which I have greased, but I found another one inside the boat, close to where the shaft goes out the hull. Likely never been greased.

It's a Bravo 3 (duoprop).

Any thoughts or experiences? Does a Bravo need an annual removing and grease job?

Gonna check my Service Manual also.

Thx.

Could be your diagnosis, could be the coupler or could be both.

Gonna pull the drive today and have a look at things. Should be evident, I hope.

Any idea what a B3 weighs? I'm pulling it myself....

I'd say u-joint or gimbal bearing....

Most likely the coupling if it was smoking, I dont think a gimbal bearing, or u-joint would smoke enough.

I think Teamsynergy was onto something!

Next post:

Got the bastard off. Combination of driving in wedges, etc. Unbelievable, and fought 'til the end. I'm guessing it's never been off from the original owner.

Anyway, found the culprit. And it smells like burnt ass, so I'm pretty sure that was the issue. Question - are the bellows open to the boat's engine area? That would explain the smoke coming into the boat. (Never changed a set before).

There was some water in the drive bellow, so I guess I'm into a bellows/bearing/seals job. But the U-joints feel fine, can't feel any play in them, etc. Anything else I should do while I've got it all apart? I also want to make sure I get all the required parts for the job up front (clamps, seals etc.)

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...y/IMG_2762.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...y/IMG_2767.jpg

if i remember right from seeing it done if you dont have the bellow install tool doing it without one is like a monkey and a football not pretty

Anybody know the right procedure to align the engine? I have use of the tool. Gonna check my SM too (engine, or drive?)

Thanks,

:)

I put my bellow boot on with out a tool, not the easiest thing to do..but not the hardest thing ive ever done either...

Was thinking of ordering one of those kits on Ebay that has six tools - Alignment tool, bellow expanders, seal tools, etc.
$120, all U.S. made.... anybody have any experience with them? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALIGNMENT-GI...207be2&vxp=mtr

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...nmenttools.jpg

Anyway, ordered this kit today: MerCruiser Bravo Transom Seal Kit 30-803100T1 from a buddy who can get OEM Merc. parts at good prices ($175 CAD) for the kit. Not sure if the bearing will be the greaseable, or Permalube type yet... we'll see.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...TransomKit.jpg

I had a bad gimbel bearing , it didn't smoke, it just made alot of noise

If the gimbal bearing was that bad. It could have done damage to the coupler, that could on been what was smoking. Especially if it smelled like rubber burning.

It might not have been the coupler burning. Most likely the rubber seal just in front of the gimbal bearing being the motor. By the looks of it, the bearing got pretty hot and transfered the heat the seal. Check the seal for damage prior to re-assembly.

Gonna inspect the coupler as best I can, and I guess the next trip out will tell me if there's any damage. Splines look good, but hard to inspect the rest. Pulling the engine is not high on my fun things to do list....

On the coupler, there are a couple zerks. What do they lube exactly, just the splines?

Damn thats the first time I've seen a gimbal bearing come out on the shaft when you pull the drive!! It didnt mess up the transom asembly where the bearing mounts in at did it? Was that sucker welded onto the shaft from all the heat that was generated?

Apparently it does happen when the bearing seizes sometimes. Haven't had a chance to look at it yet. Seal is toast too...

Chances are the coupler is fine. I have seen bearings much worse and the coupler was still fine and in perfect shape. Buy the new seal, yank the old one out, install the new one, install the new gimball bearing in the correct orientation (if its not the updated version) and drive it to the correct depth. You should be fine.

Yep, parts will be in next week. As long as the housing is fine, shouldn't be a big issue...

And you're right about the seal (just fwd of the bearing)... It's all charred/chewed, so i'm pretty sure that's what was smoking.

What's the updated version bearing?

Parts guy says the seal just forward of the gimbal bearing is not required if the new bearing is the Permalube type. I believe I read somewhere that this seal is only to keep grease at/near the bearing, so maybe this is correct, and not required?

TTT, anybody know about the seal mentioned above (seal just forward of the gimbal bearing, Bravo drive)? Buddy says it's not required if you install a Permalube bearing.

Thanks!

That seal is required thats the seal that keeps water out of the bellows with out it boat could sink!! Your talking about the thick rubber seal inside the bonnet of the gimbal housing right???

The seal just forward of the gimbal bearing. The bellows keep out water.... I can't see how that seal could keep water out of anywhere.

If you haven't got your tools yet, check out whoya's tools. He is a member here, bought his alignment tool awhile back. From what I recall he was making bellow install driver as well.


http://myworld.ebay.com/whoya2350/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

http://www.ebay.com/sch/whoya2350/m....&_trksid=p3686

The seal would keep out water if the bellow was leaking, provided the driveshaft was still installed.

I would, but his listings say that he doesn't offer international shipping for some reason, and the Contact Member link doesn't work either.

I had a bellow tear last year and it would have sunk the boat for sure if that seal was not there. It will not stop all the water but slows it down to almost none.

I did notice that when I was looking at one of the items after I already posted the link.

Send him a PM on here: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/members/whoya.html

I left the seal in. The instructions that came with the new bearing said it doesn't matter, but I see what you're saying about the water.... Although I would think the bearing and driveshaft would stop most of the water too.

Just finished the new water hose and shift cable bellow.... Knuckles are bloody enough for one session. That tapered threaded bung to hold the water hose in place behind the engine coupler was lots of fun...