Well I pulled the motor out tonight, going to remove the transom assembly tomorrow, going to do a leak down on the motor this weekend and decide where to go from there. Looks like one thing for sure I have a couple bad rust spots on my oil pan so I'm thinking that will have to be replaced. And while the motor and transom assembly are out I'm gonna throw a coat of paint in the engine compartment.

Bajabob and mild thunder, I like your way of thinking, if i chose to use the carb setup, i could get some better heads on there and decent cam and make some more power. Heck if the boat doesn't sell then at least the boat would be faster and I won't be chasing as many rooster tails this summer.

Seriously thanks everyone,
Maybe I should move that SEXY carb setup i have to a place where I won't see it everyday, and perhaps that will get this idea out of my head.
:lolhit:

At the end of the day, its your engine, your boat. Have fun and do what you wish with it. You never know, you just may want to keep it after a few changes.

I realize this is not my thread however I have been reading and I wondered if anyone has used the FAST ez efi kit to go from the carb to efi. It appears to be very easy but I wondered if anyone had any feedback...thanks

If you bought the stuff , put it on , if you dont like it take it off, you have the skill set to do it REMBER HAVE FUN

My mech. installed an outboard squeeze pump in line, give it a couple squeezes and fires right up !!

Well guy's...... Got some bad news! I know it's been a while since I posted on this tread but after my last post I did the leak down test and the results were not good! I had lots of blow by from the valves and rings. I brought the heads to the machine shop for a rebuild and got a call two days later......one of your heads is wasted and the other is not far behind. Ok so now I'm thinking I need to find a set of heads to put on then do a freshen up on the block, rings and bearings. I dropped the block with the rotating assembly still installed off at the machine shop. I got a call a few days later.....I think you better come down I got some bad news. Well come to find out the block is wasted to. They found a crack through the cap and block around the rear main seal.
This is not the news I wanted to hear a few weeks before the 2013 season kicks off. Its just weird that there was absolutely no signs of there being a problem with the motor last season. So now I'm in the market for a long block or a complete drop in motor.

Ahhh $HIT. How many hours were on this engine? very surprised to hear a stock 502 mag mpi that was running good to be junk and unrebuildable.

Well it wasn't exactly a stock motor. It was already punched to a 509, srp pistons, crane cam, comp push rods and lifters and crane gold rockers and an intake porting job from Arizona speed and marine. I bought the motor as a complete drop in at the begining of last season with 150 hrs on the rebuild and I put 40 on it so 190 hrs.....bummer!
The rotating assembly is still usable, there were some scuff marks on the crank were the bad cap was but the machinest said it didn't look horrible. He said it might not even have to be cut just a polish should take care of it. He also said you should look for a long block or a drop in motor and sell what good parts you have left.

that sucks . 190hours is nothing ! that motor should of ran longer then that.

Yupp that's what I would've thought. Any idea what would cause the block to crack in that location? I have heard people say that's where they are prone to cracking.......it doesn't seem like a common problem but I am just curious is that the weak point on a gm gen 6 502 block?

Any how i am going to look at a low hour hp500 long block this weekend. Hopefully we can make a deal and get this project wrapped up.