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Originally Posted by Shotgunn
(Post 4714771)
Looks nice, does it plug directly into the mercruiser MPI distributor? I think your boat has a bit faster hull design than mine, but a reliable starting, excellent sounding 75mph boat would make me very happy.
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Originally Posted by Knot 4 Me
(Post 4714935)
I've hydrolocked a cylinder before to where it bent a rod but the boat still ran. It shortens the rod enough to where the underside of the piston hits the counterweight on the crankshaft and makes one hell of a knock. It will run but no way you are running the engine WOT for any amount of time before destroying the piston or beating the rod bearing out of it.
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Originally Posted by ThisIsLivin
(Post 4714967)
IF you check their install manual, you will find how to connect it to the Mercury distributor. I recommend disabling the mechanical advance and using the digital advance in the Daytona controller. I'm running an MSD distributor that is locked.
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K. Headers pulled. Pics taken, how do I post?
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Got it! Also took a pic of the fuel regulator set up, If I am going with the MPI, I will need help diagnosing why it is running so rich.
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Getting Late(dark) here I was going to pull the drive today, but it will have to wait till next weekend. It's dark when I leave for work and dark when I get home. Might get ambitious and get the engine out and on the stand too. So I capped the collector end water outlet with my hand and blew into the rubber water inlet. Starboard side held, port side was definitely not holding. I know its not a real test, but it doesn't seem good. Wondering how the "send it in and have it tested" thing works, if one side is for sure not holding pressure, should i just order a new set and save the 150? Or do they apply the 150 toward a new set? If there is any chance they could be saved it would sure help with the repair cost of this engine job.
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Originally Posted by Shotgunn
(Post 4715023)
I will take your word for it, cause I have no experience with a boat engine. I have seen the skirt knocked off a piston with a bent rod and the engine still running, but unfortunately it did tear the the cylinder up due to the lack of piston support. Have never even seen a 502 piston so I dont know if they even have much of a skirt. What else could cause low compression on only the two rear cylinders? I could do a leak down, but why bother, it is coming out no matter what. I hear 400 hours is pretty much time for an overhaul anyway? Boat has 392hrs. I had the boat out several times but actually only put 9 hrs on the engine. I bought it (unknowingly) in this condition, so when whatever happened it could have made a racket.
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Originally Posted by tmmii
(Post 4716136)
If they are next to each other you could have a head gasket blown between cylinders. |
Originally Posted by Shotgunn
(Post 4716139)
Number 7 and 8( back cylinders one on each bank). If both head gaskets are blown, they are blown into water jackets, as there is no external signs. I would think there would be some water in the oil. We will find out soon. Gosh I hope the block is ok...
the rear of the fuel rail. That part of the block should be fine unless it was seeing a ton of blower heat. They will probably deck it though to be sure everything is straight. |
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