Oh-no Drive issues
06-06-2019, 06:18 AM
#11
Registered
Thread Starter
Yep filled from the bottom, after letting it drain overnight. removed and cleaned out the reservoir. It is a 1995 MPI. Smells very rich. I am fine with upper 60's for now. Just want it to start and shift and be reliable lol.
06-06-2019, 06:32 AM
#12
Registered
Thread Starter
Which you shouldn't expect. Something is wrong. let's take a fuel psi test and report back. if you do not have a fuel psi tester they are cheap, or cheaper yet, AutoZone has free rental tools. Is this a 502 MPI ? Cool fuel or VST ? Serial # ? Very typical for rubber vac hose to fuel psi regulator to be off or cracked....even if 10-15 yrs ago it was typical. LOL.
06-06-2019, 09:21 AM
#13
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Your boat should have an electric lift for the hatch.
I put a stainless tee in my intake hose right before the sea pump. Muffs are a pain and fall off way to often even with the skewer.
I think that you have leaking headers, as said earlier. It’s very common and causes the issues you speak of.
The next guess is a fueling issue which is also very common. You’ll need to get the serial number off of the engine for us to help you much more though. There’s a lot of different variations of that MPI setup, and they can be problematic. Just do a search for VST or cool fuel system and read up on that.
I had had a similar shifting issue and it was just bad cables and neglected linkage. You can pop the back cover off the drive and there’s a ball/detent thingamajig in there that seizes up. Check the cables first and then that before ripping things apart. There’s a shift linkage in the bilge that you unhook the cables from and just start pushing and pulling on them to find the culprit.
I put a stainless tee in my intake hose right before the sea pump. Muffs are a pain and fall off way to often even with the skewer.
I think that you have leaking headers, as said earlier. It’s very common and causes the issues you speak of.
The next guess is a fueling issue which is also very common. You’ll need to get the serial number off of the engine for us to help you much more though. There’s a lot of different variations of that MPI setup, and they can be problematic. Just do a search for VST or cool fuel system and read up on that.
I had had a similar shifting issue and it was just bad cables and neglected linkage. You can pop the back cover off the drive and there’s a ball/detent thingamajig in there that seizes up. Check the cables first and then that before ripping things apart. There’s a shift linkage in the bilge that you unhook the cables from and just start pushing and pulling on them to find the culprit.
06-06-2019, 05:34 PM
#14
Registered
Thread Starter
Your boat should have an electric lift for the hatch.
I put a stainless tee in my intake hose right before the sea pump. Muffs are a pain and fall off way to often even with the skewer.
I think that you have leaking headers, as said earlier. It’s very common and causes the issues you speak of.
The next guess is a fueling issue which is also very common. You’ll need to get the serial number off of the engine for us to help you much more though. There’s a lot of different variations of that MPI setup, and they can be problematic. Just do a search for VST or cool fuel system and read up on that.
I had had a similar shifting issue and it was just bad cables and neglected linkage. You can pop the back cover off the drive and there’s a ball/detent thingamajig in there that seizes up. Check the cables first and then that before ripping things apart. There’s a shift linkage in the bilge that you unhook the cables from and just start pushing and pulling on them to find the culprit.
I put a stainless tee in my intake hose right before the sea pump. Muffs are a pain and fall off way to often even with the skewer.
I think that you have leaking headers, as said earlier. It’s very common and causes the issues you speak of.
The next guess is a fueling issue which is also very common. You’ll need to get the serial number off of the engine for us to help you much more though. There’s a lot of different variations of that MPI setup, and they can be problematic. Just do a search for VST or cool fuel system and read up on that.
I had had a similar shifting issue and it was just bad cables and neglected linkage. You can pop the back cover off the drive and there’s a ball/detent thingamajig in there that seizes up. Check the cables first and then that before ripping things apart. There’s a shift linkage in the bilge that you unhook the cables from and just start pushing and pulling on them to find the culprit.
06-08-2019, 01:39 AM
#15
Registered
Remove the Outputwaterhose from Header and close this side, and build somesthing to give pressure on the input side!
When there is a hole in the header,the pressure will allways gone!
Michael
When there is a hole in the header,the pressure will allways gone!
Michael
06-08-2019, 09:47 AM
#16
Registered
Thread Starter
I think my headers may be different, than ones you speak of, but maybe I could remove the straight pipe and cap the collector?
06-08-2019, 09:51 AM
#17
Registered
Thread Starter
I got the pressure tester, and a buddy coming over to help remove the cover. So, what am I testing?
06-08-2019, 10:23 AM
#18
VIP Member
VIP Member
could have a dead cylinder..you mentioned that one plug was missing an electrode? I would start with a compression and spark test and co from there...may have a bad head gasket causing low compression...once you get the running issues sorted out I would move back to the drive issue...I'm betting that is a bad intermediate shift cable...shifting them with the engine off can stretch those...I would also look at the shift cavity for evidence of water which could be a sign of the back cover leaking...this will cause the detent ball to rust a seize...mine had similar issues shifting when I got it and it ended up being that whoever put the drive on last didn't hook up the shift cable correctly to the drive and just crammed it on causing it to get stuck in gear....but like I said I would start with the engine issues first...one problem at a time...that thing should start just like a modern car and sit there and idle.
11-10-2019, 06:14 PM
#19
Registered
Thread Starter
Well, lake season is over here, winterized the boat. Had 6 ppl, fuel and beer and trimmed out at 65mph(GPS). This may not sound too impressive, but I am super excited for next year. Since muffs have never worked for me, I had to go at winterizing by draining everything. Since I was all wadded up in there any way, I did a compression test as suggested. All summer I always crossed my fingers everytime I shut it off, hoping it would start again. Some super stressful moments, but she always busted off eventually.
135-141 on cylinders 1-6. 7 was dead, yep 0psi, and 8 struggled to get 10psi. I am thinking leaking headers and 2 bent rods. Least I made it till off season. Question is where are the headers leaking? is it possible it is just at the collector gaskets/seals ? They were leaking black sooty water all over the engine and cover/hood when I first bought it. I tightened the clamps and is stopped spitting water everywhere, but there was still sooty residue after every outing. I want to run headers, I dont want to bend anymore rods. I hate to plop down cash on new headers if new gaskets is all I need. I know nothing of these marine headers, I have read a bunch on the forums about how hated they seem to be- and understandably so. If any one knows how to tell where a leak is, please let me know. Also would love to hear suggestions on a rebuild, any special components needed? I have heard about cams, and something about rings and head gaskets. is this stuff absolutely necessary? If the engine has a roller cam, can I put a cam for a 525 in its place? I want to stick with a marine grind for sure. Also thinking of losing 100lbs, and going with aluminum heads- any down side there? All of the plugs were sooted rich, so there is definitely a problem with the fuel system as well. Since I know nothing about this MPI setup, I am thinking of shelving it, till I can afford a procharger and figure how to tune it some day. May go with a good intake and a huge spreadbore Holley. Noticed they sell "marine" intakes as well, anyone no why I couldn't run an automotive version that's 200 bucks cheaper? Obviously the excitement is not from the cubic dollars I am gonna be forced to spend, but from seeing the results 2 more contributing cylinders are gonna net.
135-141 on cylinders 1-6. 7 was dead, yep 0psi, and 8 struggled to get 10psi. I am thinking leaking headers and 2 bent rods. Least I made it till off season. Question is where are the headers leaking? is it possible it is just at the collector gaskets/seals ? They were leaking black sooty water all over the engine and cover/hood when I first bought it. I tightened the clamps and is stopped spitting water everywhere, but there was still sooty residue after every outing. I want to run headers, I dont want to bend anymore rods. I hate to plop down cash on new headers if new gaskets is all I need. I know nothing of these marine headers, I have read a bunch on the forums about how hated they seem to be- and understandably so. If any one knows how to tell where a leak is, please let me know. Also would love to hear suggestions on a rebuild, any special components needed? I have heard about cams, and something about rings and head gaskets. is this stuff absolutely necessary? If the engine has a roller cam, can I put a cam for a 525 in its place? I want to stick with a marine grind for sure. Also thinking of losing 100lbs, and going with aluminum heads- any down side there? All of the plugs were sooted rich, so there is definitely a problem with the fuel system as well. Since I know nothing about this MPI setup, I am thinking of shelving it, till I can afford a procharger and figure how to tune it some day. May go with a good intake and a huge spreadbore Holley. Noticed they sell "marine" intakes as well, anyone no why I couldn't run an automotive version that's 200 bucks cheaper? Obviously the excitement is not from the cubic dollars I am gonna be forced to spend, but from seeing the results 2 more contributing cylinders are gonna net.
11-11-2019, 01:52 AM
#20
Charter Member # 55
Charter Member
Post a pic of what headers you have. You are going to need to pull the engine. Pressure test the headers with them removed from engine.
I doubt you have bent rods. No way it would keep running without blowing up. More likely to have holes in pistons or valves burned or stuck.
I doubt you have bent rods. No way it would keep running without blowing up. More likely to have holes in pistons or valves burned or stuck.
