Tank, Doc and others....Bolster seats
 

Hey, did you guys ever come up with a sure fire way to fix these bolster seats without pulling the floor and intalling backing plates?? I need to fix the passsenger bolster, bolts have pulled outta the floor. I have tried a few different things, they work for a few weeks and then they fail.

Anyone else have an idea, I know this is a common problem on the Outlaws. I have a 98' 24.

Thanks......ALLAN:)

Allan,

The last I heard from Tank, the stuff I sent him worked. It is called LabMetal. Is almost like a putty that you use straight out of the can. It hardens and can be drilled, tapped, sanded, etc.

Send me a PM with your address and I'll get you fixed up.

Mark

Hey Allan,

The stuff Mark sent has worked really well for me. However I run my boat in some pretty harry sh!t sometimes out in the Pacific Ocean and I think if I came down sidways....Which I have before;) :D ....I would knock the bolts out again. I think the only true fix will be the backing plates, but they have been mounted in there now for about 3-4 months and I haven't had any probs yet. I let it set and dry for a week before tapping them though. Try it out, it works good and Mark will take care of ya;)

Tank

WOW.....!! What response time!!!!!! I'm impressed....:D I guess Tank uses his 1 hour state supervised recreation time efficiently......HeHeHe......atleast you get 3 square meals a day big guy.............

Gotta love this OSO thing......;)

Okay, I will send you my info Mark, thanks a ton. I assume you just remove the seat totally, then fill the holes, then drill and tap...correct??

Thanks, Seeya guys.....ALLAN

Hey Tank.....better buy your Cig, becuase someday I might beat ya to it....(okay, so maybe someday is a few years off.....;) :D :D )

Any leads or pics. You gotta buy Devilman's Cig....that is officially my favorite vee on the planet......

Allan, Ron's Cig is sweet....A little out of my price range though. I'm looking at early 90's gun or cafe. However, I need to sell my boat first....Of course I'd have to put it up for sale first....Are you getting the way this is going. Every time I take my boat out with that new motor, I just think, "I don't need a new boat, this ones too much fun!!":D :D :D Can you imaging what it will cost to get a cafe or gun (10,000 pounds at least) up to 85!!?? BIG POWER!!

Bolsters
 

Just take the bolster out and glue in a five gallon bucket like your IROC-Z drivers seat:D :D

HaHaHa.......It will out run that Maaco paint job Porshce you have.......:D Anytime funny boy.............HeHeHe......btw, will those headers match up for me, I don;t see why they would not. Need to figure that out before I sell the Gils.

Yo Tank, yeah, you are gonna double your daily boating expense with a big Cig, that is the problem. I bet you are looking a t 700-750hp per side and some stiff drives to hit mid 80's. Does that sound about right?? I know what you mean about an upgrade. I get these wild ideas about trying to go bigger at some point, then I start to think.."DO I really need to do that....?" It's a weekly struggle it seems...:D

The diff is you are in big water alot and I am not. We run the Ohio river most of the time, Cumberland and other inland lakes. I might make it to Erie one or two times per year, but that's about it. The river can get pretty snotty sometimes, but nothing like BIG water stuff. One thing for sure, I get sick of getting the **** kicked out of me on Poker Runs and rough days, plus I am getting close to the top speed I want to run in this thing...80 is tops, hope to be a daily 75 this season. If I were in big water all the time, or atleast part of the time, then I would love to have a Cafe Racer with blown 540's. How sweet would that be. Run a 420's with moderate boost and see 750hp....coooollllll. Heavy gas hog though....but at that point, you can;t worry about fuel......

Go for it dude, put that 24 up for sale and I'll see you in Havasu....HeHeHe.....

Oh yeah, it's not an IROC.....it is a Z-28. Stopped making IROC's in 90, mine's a 91. It needs a super charger....:D ;) ;) :(

Bolster
 

Actually I think you would probably prefer this type of seat!!:D Then you can move the bolster over to the passenger:D

It is PORSCHE anyways...........bring that IROC-Z over and lets race before I sell the thing!!

Allan,

Havasu poker run April 25th 26th....All the scope boys will be there, even D-man and running w/the devil. Get your ass out there we'll get you on some nice boats!! Ron's always giving out free rides!!:D ;)

I've got enough frequent flier miles..........:D :D

I have a prior obligation that weekend, but one of these days I will show up out there.........I promise;)

Damn......that sounds like a sweet time.....hhmmmmmmm

Hey Ittlfli, ya toolbag, keep your boyfreind's sex toys off my thread.....next thing you know I will look over into your boat and see Micheal with his back arched and his feet on the dash begging you to hit more waves......WUHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA..........ahhhhhh, I crack myself up...;)

Well said. For me it is an hourly struggle. I start looking at some big Cigarettes and saying, woah, only 70k for this one with motors and drives....

As for the Macco porsche and 5gal. bucket Z28......

Allan,
You can use stainless toggle fasteners for the outside screws and you should be able to access the inside screws from the access ports in the middle of your floor to put washers and locknuts on the bolts from the underside of the floor. The stainless toggles I am talking about should work fine. You would have to drill the existing holes a little larger, then put the toggles in which are secured by nylon straps. They work great. Here is a link to the toggles I am talking about.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...55&storeNum=13

Thanks
Allen

I can't see exactly what those toggles are from the pics. How do they work? The problem with the access panel to the bolts under the floor board is, the panel is too far away from the outside seat mounts. I believe this is why Baja used screws (instead of nut/bolt like on the inside mount). The ideal easy fix set up would be some sort butterfly skrew that went in straight but opened once in the hole (don't get perverted!!:p )

Tank

These toggles basically do what you want. They go into the hole sideways, then they are tightened to the underside of the floor by the nylon straps. The nylon straps go through a round nylon piece that sits on the top of the floor. The excess nylon straps are just cut off. I've used them before and they work great! Very simple to use. If you buy a set, you will see how they work. I don't know how to explain it better. But you do not need access to the underside of the floor.

Tank is 100% correct about the outer bolster bolts. That is my concern as well.

FB, I understand the philosopy behind what you are saying. CFD12 showed me a gadget something like what you are talking about. I might order one and try it out, but they look a little whimpy. I think that could work though, do you think is is strong enough to withstand all the stress??

Do you have an extra you can send me and I will try it out before I order 10-12 of them? I guess I could always just order one and eat teh shipping. Thanks

I believe they would be strong enough for the outside row of screws for your bolsters. They are definitely stronger than wood screws. Once you tighten the toggle up with the nylon straps, you then have essentially a threaded nut on the bottom side of your floor that you would screw a bolt or panhead screw into. The toggle is pretty long, so that will grab alot of the floor. It's not as good as big washers or a backing plate, but it is 100 times better than wood screws. These type of toggles are used to mount swivel seats when you can not get access under the floor. (Like when a boat has a fiberglass inner liner that does not have access below) They can be used for battery boxes, etc. I will probably change out my wood screws used to anchor my battery boxes and my anchor box I made in my engine compartment. So far I have not had any problems with my screws comming out on my bolsters. If I do, I will use these toggles. I replaced my inside row of screws on my bolsters with big washers and nylon locknuts and have had no problems.

I do not have any of these toggles available to send you. It might be worth it to buy a set and check them out. But I think you will like them. Very easy to use!

FB,

Those actually sound great. I might have to check those out too.
However, like I said, the Lab metal has worked well. You may want to try it out too Allan.

Tank

duct tape

Yeah Tank, I pm'ed Doc and have not heard from him yet. I might order these little jobbies that FB is talking about

Thanks for the info FB.

Catch ya on the flip side Tank......

I'll let you guys know if I order some. Sounds pretty good though, like Ole' Titty Boner Tank said.......

;)

Okay...back to making bondage films...........

My fix was to fab 1/4" stainless steel straps about six inches long, weld standoffs on the bottom on each end, and lag bolt them perpendicular across the original bolt holes. This gave it the most side to side strength without a nut on the bottom. Has not moved for three years. I know it sounds like it would look like sh*t but it actually is not bad at all. I just did not have time to try and pull up the floor to put a nut and washer. I'll try to post a pic later this week. I do like the toggle bolt idea too. I looked at them today at west Marine and that might work too. Andy

I am ordering the West Marine toggles things tomorrow, I will let eveyone know how they work.

Thanks again, Allan:)

Allan,

VERY SORRY!

I knew I forgot to do something.

Please e-mail me again with your address and I will ship the Lab Metal out on UPS tomorrow.

[email protected]

Mark

Doc

No need to apologize!! I may look ya up in a few weeks, but I want to try the toggles first.

Thanks for the reply and don't sweat it, we all forget stuff. Just look at Tank, he forgot to have his foreskin removed.....hehehe........:D :D :D

(hope that one doesn't piss anyone off......;) )

No ant eater here snoop!!:D :D :D :D

You guys are too funny! LOL

Hope the repair works Allan.

Good Luck

Ant eater......:D :D :D

Haven't heard that one yet.....that is hilarious!!!!

Spring Break at Havasu Tank....why are you still in Cali.....:D ;) ;)

Doc, thanks, I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Allan, even though the weather in Havasu right now is in the mid 80's, the first trip for us is the weekend of April 25th. Going to be a BIG poker run. My boat goes down to Trail Rite on Monday to get the whole thing re=done. However, boat will be down for 4 to 5 weeks!!!!:eek: :( They say it's getting to the season where they are swamped. It's all good though, I'll be running on Kevins Cig for the spring!;) ;) :D

bolster seats
 

here is what i did to fix my 272 driver's bolster (3 years ago)

i removed all 4 bolts on the inside via the access plate in the middle between the 2 seats. there is an alum plate that is tapped for the 4 ss screws to fit into. the 4 lags screws on the outside just fell out, all 4 had completely ripped out and tore up the fiberglass pretty good. i cut a 4" hole in the deck directly under the driver's seat, fabricated an alum plate (just like the one for the inside screws) tapped all four holes and used some double sided tape to hold it in place. i purchased a deck access plate to cover the hole (i always had cockpit carpet down so you never saw the plate anyway) the placement of the hole was far enough under the chair that when you stood up you would be on top of it.
this worked "perfect" never once had a problem!! it was stronger than the passenger side... when i sold the 272 2 years ago the buyer looked at the deck and did not even question the 2nd access plate!!! no harm no foul!!! it only took 3 hours but well worth it!!

jc

Thanks for the info JC. Sounds like a good process, I'm gonna try to sneek by for a little bit though, see what happens

Tank......redone? What redone?