Can I ask a dumb Question?
07-18-2011 | 11:45 AM
#51
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Springfield, Louisiana
just go slow as you can... because rushing things will get you in troulbe quick. I went out on week days and practiced docking at a bar that was closed when there were no other boats. Having one or two people who understand docking and what to have ready to dock when you do go out is also a BIG PLUS!!
07-18-2011 | 02:33 PM
#52
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From: Thousand Islands area
I just got twins this year. Can somebody please explain to me how to get up to a dock in a nice manner. Doesnt matter what I do the front or back end either wants to dive in or out. IVe tried everything and the best I can so is get the boat about 4ft from the dock
07-18-2011 | 09:14 PM
#53
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From: marbury, md
I have a single. when docking on a pier, like at the ramp I try to get the bow close with the rear of the boat a couple feet away and then cut the wheel fully opposite and then shift into reverse. perfect every time and stops. Im still going no faster than I would want to hit the dock, and if there is wind, adjust accordingly.
RED RIGHT RETURNING, for markers. which is the same as green left returning. This is returning to port, which is usually where that body of water begins.
Out cruising around watch for other boat wakes. If they look big, try to cross them perpendicularly, not at an angle or rolling over them sideway.
Dont run your motor with the drive up!
Keep the drive down when coming on plane and usually you can trim it up/out a little bit for a more efficient run once the boat is on plane at speed.
Good Luck
RED RIGHT RETURNING, for markers. which is the same as green left returning. This is returning to port, which is usually where that body of water begins.
Out cruising around watch for other boat wakes. If they look big, try to cross them perpendicularly, not at an angle or rolling over them sideway.
Dont run your motor with the drive up!
Keep the drive down when coming on plane and usually you can trim it up/out a little bit for a more efficient run once the boat is on plane at speed.
Good Luck
07-19-2011 | 09:47 AM
#54
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From: Simsbury ct
Many times you can run through a marina using nothing but the gear selectors and throttles on your boat, never needing to touch the steering. Just dont shift them unless the engines are at the lowest opperating RPM.
Its the best way to get into a dock IMO
It takes a little practice. You will get good at it though but it will take some time. I learn something new about boating every time I go out, maybe very small maybe big but your always learning.
If I pull into a dock parallel to the boat, I usually hop off (with stern line in hand fenders alreay on the side) and catch the stern line on the back cleat of the dock. I use this to slow the boat as I go forward to get the bow line, As I put pressure on the line it will do two things slow the boat and also make the bow and the rest of boat pull in towards the dock. If you time it correctly you will have your boat exactly where you want it to tie up when you get to the bow.
Every dock is different though, wind, current etc plays a role.
Oh yeah and stay CALM the worst thing you can do is PANIC in any situation! Remember its only a boat and its insured!!! The most important thing is the people on board not the boat.
Hope that helps
Last edited by 30ctsutphen; 07-19-2011 at 09:57 AM.
07-19-2011 | 10:08 AM
#55
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From: Simsbury ct
Perfect!!
I'll throw out a couple tips and and a couple things I have seen people screw up in the past
Go scout the ramp out before you show up also. Make sure you know where the ramp ACTUALLY ends (not where the sign says it does). Make sure there aren't any nails/screws stuck in the sides of the pilings - they will **** up Fiber Glass real quickly.
Make sure the plugs are in, make sure the drives are not in the trailer position or you'll be replacing U-Joints soon.
Put some lines on before you start backing down the ramp. Put bumpers out as deemed necessary. Go on a high tide so you don't have to force it off, and so there is more room for error.
As for driving - if it is a dual engine boat don't use the throttle. Steer ONLY with the shifters. Using lots of throttle will screw you up real quickly. As you pull up to a dock (or whatever your target is) take stock of which way the wind is blowing AND which way the tide is running. You can look at the waterline on pilings to tell if the tide is running one way or the other.
Not a bad idea to go out and practice on something like a channel marker.
As for getting it back on the trailer - I like to dunk the trailer far enough that you don't have to rip the carpet off getting the boat back on, but not so far that the boat will float. Then I walk it up on the trailer pretty far, jump on the boat, and give it some throttle up on the trailer to the bump stop. When I do this I always make sure to shift both engines into gear at the same time or you will go off center immediately.
I'll throw out a couple tips and and a couple things I have seen people screw up in the past
Go scout the ramp out before you show up also. Make sure you know where the ramp ACTUALLY ends (not where the sign says it does). Make sure there aren't any nails/screws stuck in the sides of the pilings - they will **** up Fiber Glass real quickly.
Make sure the plugs are in, make sure the drives are not in the trailer position or you'll be replacing U-Joints soon.
Put some lines on before you start backing down the ramp. Put bumpers out as deemed necessary. Go on a high tide so you don't have to force it off, and so there is more room for error.
As for driving - if it is a dual engine boat don't use the throttle. Steer ONLY with the shifters. Using lots of throttle will screw you up real quickly. As you pull up to a dock (or whatever your target is) take stock of which way the wind is blowing AND which way the tide is running. You can look at the waterline on pilings to tell if the tide is running one way or the other.
Not a bad idea to go out and practice on something like a channel marker.
As for getting it back on the trailer - I like to dunk the trailer far enough that you don't have to rip the carpet off getting the boat back on, but not so far that the boat will float. Then I walk it up on the trailer pretty far, jump on the boat, and give it some throttle up on the trailer to the bump stop. When I do this I always make sure to shift both engines into gear at the same time or you will go off center immediately.
It washes out the end of the ramp so larger boat trailers will fall off the shelf and not be able to get back out. If you get the trailer in properly you wont need to do this, also Ive seen guys run right up and over thier trucks doing this manuever.
07-19-2011 | 10:17 AM
#56
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From: Simsbury ct
That makes two of us. I never use the blower anymore. I never start up with the hatch closed. It's always open.
On my Baja, at some point the propeller somehow became dislodged from the blower motor shaft. I have no idea when it happened or how long it was like that at the time I discovered it. So there I was turning the blower on before each start, I'd listen and hear it turning and thought everything is just fine. Luckily I never needed it, because if there ever was fuel vapor present I would have blown up.
There's just so many things that can go wrong with blower ventilation, blower failures like mine and clogged hoses/tubes, etc., that I just don't trust them.
The first thing I do before firing up is a quick cursory inspection of the engines anyway, check oil, check drive fluid level, belt condition and tension, sea strainer clarity, etc. In the meantime, your bilge is being ventilated. Lastly, while in the bilge I sniff around to ensure there are no fumes present. Then I fire up and look again to make sure water's flowing, the belts are turning and all that good stuff.
Finally, if for some strange reason there are vapors present which do ignite, it's best to have the hatch open anyway, rather than closed. The firecracker theory: If one blows up in your hand with your palm open it will sting a little, but if you make a fist you'll likely lose some fingers.
On my Baja, at some point the propeller somehow became dislodged from the blower motor shaft. I have no idea when it happened or how long it was like that at the time I discovered it. So there I was turning the blower on before each start, I'd listen and hear it turning and thought everything is just fine. Luckily I never needed it, because if there ever was fuel vapor present I would have blown up.
There's just so many things that can go wrong with blower ventilation, blower failures like mine and clogged hoses/tubes, etc., that I just don't trust them.
The first thing I do before firing up is a quick cursory inspection of the engines anyway, check oil, check drive fluid level, belt condition and tension, sea strainer clarity, etc. In the meantime, your bilge is being ventilated. Lastly, while in the bilge I sniff around to ensure there are no fumes present. Then I fire up and look again to make sure water's flowing, the belts are turning and all that good stuff.
Finally, if for some strange reason there are vapors present which do ignite, it's best to have the hatch open anyway, rather than closed. The firecracker theory: If one blows up in your hand with your palm open it will sting a little, but if you make a fist you'll likely lose some fingers.
Always use a BLOWER on an IO boat Even if you open the hatch the Fuel is heavy and sits in the bottom of the bilge, one spark and BOOM. Its very unlikely openeing the hatch will remove all the fuel fumes in the bilge.
go to a boat slavage auction and see all the peoples BURNED boats who didnt think they needed a blower. Then youll respect it.
07-19-2011 | 10:39 AM
#57
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From: Lapeer, Mi
I've found one of the best alternatives to power loading (which I have never done and never will do). As I back the trailer into the water I stop right at the point that the boat is touching the trailer. Then throw a dock line onto the front cleat (anchor), then route it to and thru the saftey chain loop on the trailer. Hand rope to wife get back in truck slowly start backing into deeper water (pushing boat as I go) with her holding onto the rope. As the trailer starts to drop lower she can then pull the rope to walk the boat right onto the trailer. No wet feet no jumping from end of dock to catch boat etc.etc.
07-19-2011 | 10:44 AM
#58
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All good info except using the throttles to load. I see this all the time and in some areas ITS ILLEGAL!
It washes out the end of the ramp so larger boat trailers will fall off the shelf and not be able to get back out. If you get the trailer in properly you wont need to do this, also Ive seen guys run right up and over thier trucks doing this manuever.
It washes out the end of the ramp so larger boat trailers will fall off the shelf and not be able to get back out. If you get the trailer in properly you wont need to do this, also Ive seen guys run right up and over thier trucks doing this manuever.
TWO WORDS ON THIS SUBJECT:
HERE HERE!
07-19-2011 | 10:50 AM
#59
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From: At the office.
Use the blower!!!
For those that don't use the blower, I would strongly suggest you use it!
Air has a vapor density of one. Substances with a vapor density of less than one are lighter than air and tend to dissipate easily (such as helium)... Opening the hatch would help with these type of vapors, but not with gasoline vapors. Unfortunately, gasoline has a vapor density of 3 to 4. What this means is gasoline vapors will accumulate in low places (the bottom of your bilge) and they are tough to dissipate...
Opening your hatch will often do little to remove gas vapors without a lot of turbulence. Don't rely on just opening the hatch to remove the potential danger!
If anyone has ever seen a boat explode from failure to use the blower, you'll know such an explosion is absolutely nothing to take lightly. It's no F-ing joke!!!
Use the blower, it's there for a reason! Run it before starting the engines and leave it on anytime you're running the boat... it costs you nothing and it's there to save your azz!
Air has a vapor density of one. Substances with a vapor density of less than one are lighter than air and tend to dissipate easily (such as helium)... Opening the hatch would help with these type of vapors, but not with gasoline vapors. Unfortunately, gasoline has a vapor density of 3 to 4. What this means is gasoline vapors will accumulate in low places (the bottom of your bilge) and they are tough to dissipate...
Opening your hatch will often do little to remove gas vapors without a lot of turbulence. Don't rely on just opening the hatch to remove the potential danger!
If anyone has ever seen a boat explode from failure to use the blower, you'll know such an explosion is absolutely nothing to take lightly. It's no F-ing joke!!!
Use the blower, it's there for a reason! Run it before starting the engines and leave it on anytime you're running the boat... it costs you nothing and it's there to save your azz!
07-19-2011 | 07:15 PM
#60
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 476
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From: Wichita, KS
2 thoughts on docking with a side wind (Kansas boater here, so plenty of experience, unfortunately, with that).
First, there is no substitute for practice. Go to the lake during off hours (weekday morning is great) and just practice. Come in, dock, back out, pull around, and repeat. No pressure from the crowds or a crew with you who wants to get on the water. Just go get a feel for it.
Second, I don't like having friends or family "catch" my boat. One slip or wrong move an they could get injured easily. Maybe just a bruise, maybe a broken arm, maybe a fall and a bashed head. Too much risk for me. The boat can always be fixed, friends and family not so much. Put out bumpers and ask people to not get involved unless they are trusted and have some experience. I have seen people get pinched between a boat and the dock before (not my rig) and it's not pretty. This gets much worse if the wind is bad or really worse if there is a big storm blowing in and everying is rushing around.
First, there is no substitute for practice. Go to the lake during off hours (weekday morning is great) and just practice. Come in, dock, back out, pull around, and repeat. No pressure from the crowds or a crew with you who wants to get on the water. Just go get a feel for it.
Second, I don't like having friends or family "catch" my boat. One slip or wrong move an they could get injured easily. Maybe just a bruise, maybe a broken arm, maybe a fall and a bashed head. Too much risk for me. The boat can always be fixed, friends and family not so much. Put out bumpers and ask people to not get involved unless they are trusted and have some experience. I have seen people get pinched between a boat and the dock before (not my rig) and it's not pretty. This gets much worse if the wind is bad or really worse if there is a big storm blowing in and everying is rushing around.
