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72 Cigarette 24-Keep it Old School?
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What is the opinion on the restoration of this old girl. Should it be straight old school or can you make modifications?
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kept original
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That is a true classic...Keep it that way....
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just make it shine like it was !!
And don't forget to post pics !! |
That is a cool ride, keep it original. Is that teak? Nice
Jim |
Original for sure.......if you don't like a classic original boat there are many newer ones to choose from........(not trying to be a jerk).
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Where did you find that boat? Is it new to you? It looks great. I have been looking for a 24 for a while, but they are pretty scarce. I found one this past spring that was just a bare hull in rough shape, but I missed it by a few hours. It was there in the AM and gone that same afternoon when I called back to arrange a deposit. Because of the shape it was in, I was going to make it into a modern boat (think 24' Gladiator), but with the shape your boat is in, I would probably leave it original. Damn that's a cool boat!
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I'm new to the Cig world, but it seems to be in good shape other than cosmetic stuff. The teak needs to be sanded and recaulked, some of the bungs are missing. The hull is sound, has a lot of bottom paint on it that is falling off. The windscreen is fogged out and needs replacement. It seemed to run well, the gentleman who owned the boat had it for 20 years and kept it heated indoors during the winter. My plan is to clean it up and see what happens. I am not a purist, just someone wanting to get into performance boating and this opportunity came up.
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He are a couple more pics.
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Very cool old boat, Just due what your wallet will let ya.....Keeping things old school is nice but old school and modern touches is nice also.....Good luck post as many pics as ya like we love em....
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Originally Posted by Hot Duck
(Post 2247872)
Where did you find that boat? Is it new to you? It looks great. I have been looking for a 24 for a while, but they are pretty scarce. I found one this past spring that was just a bare hull in rough shape, but I missed it by a few hours. It was there in the AM and gone that same afternoon when I called back to arrange a deposit. Because of the shape it was in, I was going to make it into a modern boat (think 24' Gladiator), but with the shape your boat is in, I would probably leave it original. Damn that's a cool boat!
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Originally Posted by nocigarette
(Post 2247897)
Very cool old boat.....post as many pics as ya like we love em....
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I'll keep that in mind. I think this may be my only opportunity to own a Cig, so well see what happens. I think I'll need some repowering advice when the time comes.
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Does anyone know how many 24's they produced in 72. This hull number is 72240101? I was curious where this fits in there production run.
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what is a24 worth its like a 1986 or 87 and a #3
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Originally Posted by knollwoodworker
(Post 2248189)
I'll keep that in mind. I think this may be my only opportunity to own a Cig, so well see what happens. I think I'll need some repowering advice when the time comes.
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Scott mentioned that they had sold one that came from Lake Tahoe, it should be back this or next week. It will interesting to see it.
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I still can't get over how cool your boat is. Clean your teak up with Te-ka and leave natural gold.
Jim |
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Here's the one from Lake Tahoe.....
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Nice pics, my boat has the railing around the engine hatch. I looked the sales brochure on the boat and that wasn't offered as an option, which leads me to believe that a previous owner added it. I think the boat looks much better without the railing, would you all agree?
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I agree no rear railing is better, but filling holes with out painting will take some doing. I would rather see the rail then the repairs unless you plan to paint it. Its Nice 24 Degrees added his pictures.
Jim |
Jim, Any thoughts on how much it would be to paint the boat? I would like to soda blast the bottom to remove the paint and then possibly paint. Just a single color with as much prep as I could realistically do myself. Thanks for the Pic s 24 Degrees!
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It wouldn't be fair for my to guess, There are so many variables. I will say though my friend has a paint shop in Annapolis, Maryland and has been painting boats for 30 some years. Lilly Sport Boats paint a lot of boats and are very good. Labor rate in MD is less then where you are. What ever you do have someone with boat experience paint it. Boats are very different then cars.
Jim |
I'm not near the boat to check but it look from my pictures that the stanchion mounts are in the teak along the side and only in the fiberglass along the back. Maybe after the screw hole repairs the color could be blended into the surrounding area? Just a thought. I want to rename the boat and was thinking "Got Wood!?"
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My guess is the old name will show after you remove it. If the gelcoat is in really good shape you might get a decent match on the blend but the reality is blending paint to gelcoat anyways shows. It might not at first but the gel chaulks and fades and the paint doesn't. Maybe the repairs in the back can be done with gelcoat to suffice for now and restore everything you can, enjoy the boat and paint it at some later time.
Jim |
knollwood, check w/ Jamie from Lakeside... he'd be a good person to talk to!
http://lakesiderestorations.com/ He goes by Donzi33 on the site here. |
Thanks Stormrider.....Ross
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Hey Ross,
You can sand or scrape the bottom paint off and instead of painting the bottom...wet sand it perfectly smooth with like 600-800 grit sandpaper. My stinger came out great that way. If you repaint it...it's likely the paint will come off if it is not well bonded, and will most assuredly slow the boat down more than a bare wet sanded hull. I gained 5 mph after stripping the bottom paint, and wet sanding the bottom. It looks like new, as I'm sure yours would as well. As far as repower...what drives do you have? Alpha's? If you could stuff a couple of 350's in there, I'll bet that thing would take off running like you could not believe. Pop some holes in the transom and put the exhaust out the back to let them breath. If it does nearly 60 now with the 6 cyl and bottom paint, I'll bet she would really scream with the torque of v8's and no bottom paint. You could also spin some larger props with the larger engines. You might even be able to try better props now. If the guy had the boat for 20 years...prop technology has changed big time and you might even get a few knots with different props. Try a few wide open runs and see where your rpm's are. With more efficient props at the optimum engine rpm you would be amazed what kind of performance you can get. This site is an amazing resource for anything you need to know...engine / outdrives,technical, paint, props, trailering, parts pretty much anything you never wanted to know. The brain power here is worth more than gold when it comes to keeping these things running. Saw your missed call the other day. No message, so I figured it was not important, and I was putting out a few fires on my end this weekend. Try me again when you get a chance. I'll be on the road with Hodge the next few days. Todd |
Originally Posted by 24degrees
(Post 2248452)
Here's the one from Lake Tahoe.....
Is that boat still at Ocean Performance? |
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Here's a few more pics of early 24s.......stolen from the internet......:)
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And more.....
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:)
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If your going to repower it and get away from what you have a single big block is worth thinking about. Personally I would make every attempt to keep it as is except for a counter lower unit and props. If you change to either twin small blocks or single big block you will need to fill and recut transom and reconfigure stringers. Good luck deciphering everyones opinions. I have added your boat to my hope to find list.
Jim |
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