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with 800 hp a side in a 35 fountain with 6's you would go 120+. for the short boating season we have up north that seems like a awful lot of work for minimal gains. could you imagine going through all that. then prop testing then possibly having to buy spacers for 3-5mph on the top end? to go through all that i would sell the #6 stuff and put arnesons on it. unless your boat has an on-off switch for throttles i dont see it worth all the work. just my opinion. on a 1988 boat i would look into having the hull blueprinted if it hasnt been done before i started reglassing the transom.
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Originally Posted by TxHawk
(Post 3980445)
I can't imagine considering moving drives on a dry boat for 50HP a side.
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Originally Posted by kvogt
(Post 3980573)
If the boat was running over 100 then maybe there is 3-5 left on the table, but at mid 80s I would guess less than 1 mph.
Spend your money on props, they are expensive but will give you the best all around solution. |
Originally Posted by 88bullet
(Post 3980574)
with 800 hp a side in a 35 fountain with 6's you would go 120+. for the short boating season we have up north that seems like a awful lot of work for minimal gains. could you imagine going through all that. then prop testing then possibly having to buy spacers for 3-5mph on the top end? to go through all that i would sell the #6 stuff and put arnesons on it. unless your boat has an on-off switch for throttles i dont see it worth all the work. just my opinion. on a 1988 boat i would look into having the hull blueprinted if it hasnt been done before i started reglassing the transom.
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2" of -X- is a huge change. Zero Patience is right the 17" 4 blades are not be real happy with that set up. Your gonna need more diameter possibly even a five blade to get your efficiency up at cruise.
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On the other hand..Just picking up a few MPH would be ALOT easier (and cheaper) by switching the drives from wet-sump to dry sump. That'll free up almost (if not more) 100HP per side. Problem solved. ;) :D.
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Originally Posted by OldSchool
(Post 3980641)
On the other hand..Just picking up a few MPH would be ALOT easier (and cheaper) by switching the drives from wet-sump to dry sump. That'll free up almost (if not more) 100HP per side. Problem solved. ;) :D.
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Four people, full of fuel, water bigger than it appears and runnin in the 80's.... note trim and tab position ;)
I'll have to do some searching on here when I get some time. I talked with a Merc engineer and he told me how much HP that the 4.5 gallons of drive fluid robs. I wanna say that it was over 125HP. The wet-sumps use up less that a Bravo. I think that he said it took 35 HP to turn a Bravo... |
I guess every bodies expectations are different. I have been reconfiguring my Flat deck which has 750's and now No. 5's to run in the low 80's . But what is more important is what are you willing to give up to get the extra speed . In my Case mid range cruising and planing are more important than that extra 2 to 5 mph. Mine is a pleasure boat I will spend more time with fam and friends than blasting wide open . I am starting with my drives at 3.5 below the hll and they 3 inches of spaces , I will space up to find my sweet spot but will not end above the running surface . That being said I will probably leave a few mph on the table but as I said it is all about your priorities. Kreed all I can say is changing your drive height is a Huge job if you do it yourself as I did or expensive if you pay some one to do it. It will take longer than you think and more time than you expect to dial it in . My 2 cents " if its not broken don't fix it "
Rick G. |
OldSchool and Zero Patience. Are your props spinning in or out?
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