Offshoreonly.com - Cigarette Topgun

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Offshoreonly.com (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/)

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- - Cigarette Topgun (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/cigarette/356490-cigarette-topgun.html)

jmackin

11-30-2019 02:47 PM

I owned a 97 TG Kevlar cover girl cabin and 2000 full cabin TG. The full cabin boat rode 100% better for Lake Erie water.

ICDEDPPL

11-30-2019 04:35 PM

I thought they stopped making full cabins so the bow is lighter and they don`t hop as much ?
Mine was never designed for 1000lbs blower motors, transmissions, extension boxes and #5`s either , it`s A LOT of extra weight back there plus with shorter tanks the fuel weight is mostly in the back. Rides great but I do have a full cabin with fridge AC 2 beds etc etc .. so..

Unlimited jd

11-30-2019 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ICDEDPPL (Post 4716817)

You sure you wanna move the tank forward ? I always thought the more weight towards the back was better.

some big names in offshore boat rigging have told me always put as much of the weight that has to be in the boat as far back as possible. Batteries, pumps, etc. can always add some weight to the bow later if you need to. The right props can really make a boat, wrong props will make it miserable. I’ve seen how bad a boat can be with just the wrong props.

ICDEDPPL

11-30-2019 08:27 PM

I agree, one of the reasons I shortened the tanks I didn`t want that weight forward like the original tanks ... right on about props, they can make or break the ride , mine loves big diameter. 18" and good cup mine rides great , 17.5" and smaller, no bueno

cigrocket

12-01-2019 08:37 AM

Straight Bottoms all need the Largest Diameter props You can Find for SSM setups. ICDEDPPL is 100% correct.

offshoredrillin

12-01-2019 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by division1 (Post 4716824)

Well with removing the entire cabin I lost a lot of weight up there. And my new swim platform is 130 lbs heavier I am a bit concerned about being bow light and smacking a lot. We’re not putting to much back up there. Just want to make sure I’m not sacrificing ride quality to much. I k ow it will be lighter and faster but most of all more solids those liners move and rub the sides so much. With new full bulk heads in its going to be a lot stiffer next

i would think that you would want to shoot for a more balanced center of gravity biased to the rear to make it where you can run with the least amount of input from tabs and your drives neutral or slightly trimmed up. like a 60/40 or a 70/30... once you have the new cabin in you can figure out the tipping point and adjust from there.

division1

12-01-2019 01:58 PM

That’s what I’m thinking to. I think it will work out. I will have to dial it all in when we’re done anyway. Back to glassing and grinding lol

hogie roll

12-01-2019 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by offshoredrillin (Post 4716881)

From what points are you measuring 60/40 vs 70/30? Nose and stern?

offshoredrillin

12-01-2019 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogie roll (Post 4716929)

From what points are you measuring 60/40 vs 70/30? Nose and stern?

based on numbers start with the length of the boat, top guns are 37.9, therefore dead center would be 18' 4.5"... at dead ctr the boat would fall to the stern. moving back would allow one to find the center of gravity, where the boat would suspend level on a fulcrum, then adjust from there. ultimately the easiest way would be to build what you want then adjust the balance with lead once you run it.

division1

12-01-2019 06:06 PM

That’s my plan fully. I can add a water tank up front if needed but I think it’s going to run well.

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