1978 Sleekcraft Aristocrat Budget Build Thread
#71
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List of stuff for the outdrive:
Need to borrow gimbal bearing puller. Mine is shot.
Need to figure out how to align engine. Looks like rear of engine is too low. Need to raise somehow.
Need stainless washers for the 6 bolts in rear.
Need rubber conical bushings for trim cylinders, and stainless hardware.
Need to borrow gimbal bearing puller. Mine is shot.
Need to figure out how to align engine. Looks like rear of engine is too low. Need to raise somehow.
Need stainless washers for the 6 bolts in rear.
Need rubber conical bushings for trim cylinders, and stainless hardware.
#72
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Are you using an alignment tool? If the back is too low you must be missing those spring looking washers, they (when tightened down) make a stack of about 3/8". if their missing then it is too low, if there not missing you should be fine.
#74
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Got the Gimball bearing installed today. Going to take it somewhere to have them align it, since they charge less than the cost of the freaking alignment tool. Also goign to see if they'll do the bellows for the everything, I have the parts.
#75
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[IMG][/IMG]
Rented a slide hammer from autozone, with all attachments. Pulled the gimbal out in 10 minutes. Then put the new one in the freezer to help shrink it a tiny bit, and cut up a 2x4 with a jig saw so it had a cutout in the middle. This was to avoid putting any pressure on the bearing itself, and it would only contact the heavy duty outer edge of the bearing. Used a BFH and installed it in 5 minutes or so. Spent a lot of today detailing, and getting ready to drop off at a shop tomorrow to have the engine aligned with the stern drive. After that is done, more things can start being bolted on.
Rented a slide hammer from autozone, with all attachments. Pulled the gimbal out in 10 minutes. Then put the new one in the freezer to help shrink it a tiny bit, and cut up a 2x4 with a jig saw so it had a cutout in the middle. This was to avoid putting any pressure on the bearing itself, and it would only contact the heavy duty outer edge of the bearing. Used a BFH and installed it in 5 minutes or so. Spent a lot of today detailing, and getting ready to drop off at a shop tomorrow to have the engine aligned with the stern drive. After that is done, more things can start being bolted on.
#76
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"After sanding down to 800, then buffing with aggressive compound. Sick of working on aesthetics, just want to get it wet this year so I'm done dealing with this. It's good enough, for now."
I don't think you are giving yourself enough credit, what you are doing is an enormous undertaking even for trained professionals and you're doing a fine job. Focus on what you need to do to get it in the water before all the nice weather is gone. Put a priority on finishing the parts that would have to be undone later if not done correctly. For instance I would buff the transom prior to installing trim tabs, but water hoses can be run anywhere and just be long loops of heater hose so long as they work, similarly wires can lay beside the seat in the bottom of the boat, you can bundle and hide them later, get a water temperature and oil pressure gauge working and forget the rest and so forth and so on....
Good luck and don't forget the sunscreen!
Dan
I don't think you are giving yourself enough credit, what you are doing is an enormous undertaking even for trained professionals and you're doing a fine job. Focus on what you need to do to get it in the water before all the nice weather is gone. Put a priority on finishing the parts that would have to be undone later if not done correctly. For instance I would buff the transom prior to installing trim tabs, but water hoses can be run anywhere and just be long loops of heater hose so long as they work, similarly wires can lay beside the seat in the bottom of the boat, you can bundle and hide them later, get a water temperature and oil pressure gauge working and forget the rest and so forth and so on....
Good luck and don't forget the sunscreen!
Dan
#77
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Thanks for the support. I'm trying, but I'm having a LOT of trouble figuring out how to mount the alternator. Originally, the alternator hung on the cast iron exhaust manifolds. I don't have those anymore... so... I'm struggling with the new thermostat housing, which has the water inlet on the opposite side as stock, and mounting the alternator. Everything else is fairly straightforward, but it's even hard to find pictures of SBC engines in boats. I've tried googling, but so far no dice.
#78
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Let me know if you want to get rid of them.
I have an 1981 Baja 190tc with a 260hp 350 and Merc I drive. What pictures do you need? I can take all the pictures you want.
I have an 1981 Baja 190tc with a 260hp 350 and Merc I drive. What pictures do you need? I can take all the pictures you want.
#79
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Thanks for the support. I'm trying, but I'm having a LOT of trouble figuring out how to mount the alternator. Originally, the alternator hung on the cast iron exhaust manifolds. I don't have those anymore... so... I'm struggling with the new thermostat housing, which has the water inlet on the opposite side as stock, and mounting the alternator. Everything else is fairly straightforward, but it's even hard to find pictures of SBC engines in boats. I've tried googling, but so far no dice.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...%20mount&dds=1
Otherwise, don't run one for now (think Labor Day Weekend). Take two batteries, hook up one as a total loss system (no alternator). The wiring circuit is the same except there is no charging going on, just tape up the ends of the wires going to the alternator to prevent arching or wire the alternator up but don't use it. This will run the boat (no stereo or lights) for several hours. When the engine starts to miss from low voltage, stop the engine, switch batteries and head home. Recharge overnight. Make sure the batteries and alternator are strapped down good or they will walk all over the place causing much mischief.
Good luck,
Dan
#80
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