thats right,its not,but it has no glue in it and holds up better in wet locations.

I respectfully disagree, the glue used in marine plywood is made to get wet, however dimensional lumber(pine) will rot quickly if it gets wet.

some pics of the new stringers. they are 11 ply birch plywood with ve resin and matt in between.

i used a scarf joint to match the old and new stringers.

some pics:

Make sure you round off all the corners to your stringers.......glass doesn't like to bend over a 90 degree edge. Also, I would bull nose the overlapped stringer for the same reasons........It was the best decision to have replaced all new with the right materials..............very nice work!

thanks for the heads up scippy. i was thinking of that and now it's what i'm going to do.

new battery boxes and a couple "platforms" in the rearmost bilge corners to mount the hydraulics to.

some pics:

Loeven though those boxes are closed make sure you still put some sort of drain in them. Water WILL find its way in. Also you need to be able to through bolt the battery hold downs, lags into the wood will only last for a short time. Lookin good so far keep the pics coming :cool:

thanks dave. i will add drain holes. i plan on using the same battery hold down method as they did in the old days and that will require holes for the through bolts.

I like to hole-saw out my drain holes and then line them with a piece of PVC pipe (that fits real tight in the hole) then glass in the ends that sticks through the sides. May seem like over kill but I don't like doing stringers more then once.

Thats not overkill . . . . thats actually the way they should be done in the first place :D I do something similar, i use an inch and a half hole saw then round over the edge then carefully wet a piece of fiberglass that i can roll around the hole. Kind of a pain but well worth the effort, I am real particular to not have the slightest bit of exposed wood anywhere. All edges and through holes are cut slightly larger and are fully encapsulated.