The cracks are just in the paint for the most part, I'll send you some pics. May just strip it above the rub rail and redo the whole thing. Sucks the boat was just painted a couple years ago. I think poor prep caused it

Bravo
 

Watcha doin with the Bravo pieces?

They were all in the swap shop..... Everything is sold already

fixx
 

thats a hard call with the older boats,you never know where the next crack will appear,you could fix the cracke that you see now and next year you could find more of them. i redid my donzi 12 yrs ago and their are a few popping up and its stored inside a heated garage,,i tink in your case it could also be the cold weather doing it..??

I had two large cracks under my engine, turned out to be delamination under the large cracks from water getting into tiny spiderweb stress cracks, had to do a lot of grinding. I found with my excalibur the hull itself while well made could stand to have a few extra layers of 24 oz roving in key areas. This will also help to stop the 1708 roving/mat that the factory used from cracking and letting water into the glass. I personally think that the culprit is the mat of the 1708 because all of the stringer tabbing (24 oz roving) was in excellent shape no stress cracks whatsoever.

For example take a small hammer and tap around the stringer tabbing/bulkhead tabbing/transom tabbing and then tap outward towards the center of the bilge, you will here a distinct change in pitch when you go from the 24 oz roving onto the 1708 biax. On my boat the bottom of the V is also reinforced with 24 oz roving and was also in excellent condition. Im assuming the construction of out boats is somewhat similar here

Every bit of wood has been cut out of mine replaced and glassed with a different layup. All the cracks I'm speaking of are superficial in the paint on the deck

O lol yeah i got a lot of those too got to pick my battles though haha

Little update, finally got to get over to check on the boat.
Transom is plugged, and the large scratches in the hull sides (not by me) are prepped and getting painted tomorrow. Normally I do everything myself but my buddy does it so cheap it's not worth me doing. And that works out as free indoor storage as well :drink:
Also bought a set of tailpipes from nordicflame for a great deal that will work out so i dont have to move the exhaust tips on my transom. Finish a few more cosmetics and fill the old motor plate holes next week, and then i will cut the transom for the 3's. Setting the x dimension at 21.311" which puts the propshafts 3" below the running surface.
Had a lot of help from some good people i've met through this site. Smokin' gun made the template jig for me, adk61 has helped me figure out what x dimension will work best all around for my power and expectations from the boat and many other parts deal etc. thanks to all!

whos doing the work?

A friend of mine in Bristol. Trying to decide what color to paint the transom now. Took the swim platform off today, and we filled all the holes in the way or that won't be needed anymore on the transom and the stringers. Thinking either silver or just back to white on the transom and platform.