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Partial Transom replacement
Found some rot around the SB trim tab(you can lift up on it and the transom around trim tab flexes:poopoo:. Was considering Coosa to cut it out and reglass. No sure about partial replacement (Structure and Stability) anybody successful? More concerned that its more rot; only sounded hollow around the tab. Any alternative (replacing the transom on my old school ride wouldn't be fun)
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I'd do the complete cut off and start all new again!!!
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Originally Posted by jeff32
(Post 3847686)
I'd do the complete cut off and start all new again!!!
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Transom replacement is a ton of work and you will not know how much is rotten until you rip into it.
Would you do the work your self if so you better start soon if you want it done for summer. It is not hard work just dirty work best to do the removal and grinding outside. Cost of material is not to bad under $1000. 10 gallons of resin will do more then the transom. |
Maybe i'm not sure. i can ventilate easily in my work space; Easy enough to get the engines out TRS and outdrives are already pulled; have overhead engine cranes in my shop (Just getting over the initial shock is all.) Found Coosa cheaper than my glass guy can get it at, hamiltonmarine.com. Plus just bought a new trailer for this boat..:cartman:
Originally Posted by LOTOWONTOPGUN
(Post 3847781)
Transom replacement is a ton of work and you will not know how much is rotten until you rip into it.
Would you do the work your self if so you better start soon if you want it done for summer. It is not hard work just dirty work best to do the removal and grinding outside. Cost of material is not to bad under $1000. 10 gallons of resin will do more then the transom. |
That all hurts, especially getting the new trailer. The Scarab III has always been one of my favorite boats due to the extra seating in the cockpit. Not many offshore boats out there that do not use the "two bolsters in front of a bench seat" model. Your scarab III and some of the 377 scarab models were like that, few others. I always wanted one, maybe someday I will get one and restore it.
Anyways, my reason for posting. I read your thread the other day and didn't post as I didn't have good news and hate sounding negative. But my first thought was to rip out the transom and replace it all. I would bet on it all being wet. The corner where it started might be the only rotten part, but once water gets into it, it does not stop spreading. here is how I know. I am redoing a Formula 272 now and last winter I redid stringers and bulk heads. Somehow, my transom stayed dry. Actually I know how, but it was pretty lucky. The center stringer on my 272 was hollow and open for water to flow through it. The wood was treated, so I guess they figured no problem. But all the wood stringers were nailed together to the bulk heads, and at the corners where they met, they added 2x2's to reinforce them. So when one piece of plywood got wet and soaked it up, it would travel until it hit that 2x2 which had good contact with the surface of the plywood. It then transferred it to the other piece of plywood and so on. Drip water on an exposed part of the bulk head and it eventually soaked itself into the stringers. The only reason my transom was spared is the center stringer plywood stopped about 1/2 inch from the transom and it was connected by the glass covering. The lower part of the transom was all glassed over so some water in the bilge would not soak in, but if it got over 12" deep, it would have. Are all boats like this, no. But I feel if the wood has a moisture source in one spot, over years it will travel throughout that one piece. So, the corner of your transom has been wet long enough to rot. I am guessing it is spreading and the rest of it is wet also. May not be rotted yet, but I would guess it is wet. Have you drilled any holes yet to see how the wood comes out in other locations? You mentioned the trans and drives are out, what about the gimbals? If they are out, dig into the wood there below any protective sealings that are on it and look at that wood. Or the exhaust outlets. these may be sealed and feel dry, but the wood behind may be wet. Some of mine I replaced with plywood, some I poured with nidabond. Nidabond was not cheap, but it was pretty easy actually. It really wasn't that expensive either though. I paid $367 delivered for it from California I think and got 2 or 3 five gallon pails. Hopefully I am wrong and you can let me know that the corner can be rotted, but the gimble hole next to it still dry. Been married 18 years, used to being wrong :lolhit: Good luck, keep us informed. Hate to see another scarab III die. Brian |
Hey Brian thanks for your insight. I am off for a couple of days may pull the motors tomorrow after some digging around to see how wet that area is. Hopefully she's not dead yet.
Originally Posted by befu
(Post 3847818)
That all hurts, especially getting the new trailer. The Scarab III has always been one of my favorite boats due to the extra seating in the cockpit. Not many offshore boats out there that do not use the "two bolsters in front of a bench seat" model. Your scarab III and some of the 377 scarab models were like that, few others. I always wanted one, maybe someday I will get one and restore it.
Anyways, my reason for posting. I read your thread the other day and didn't post as I didn't have good news and hate sounding negative. But my first thought was to rip out the transom and replace it all. I would bet on it all being wet. The corner where it started might be the only rotten part, but once water gets into it, it does not stop spreading. here is how I know. I am redoing a Formula 272 now and last winter I redid stringers and bulk heads. Somehow, my transom stayed dry. Actually I know how, but it was pretty lucky. The center stringer on my 272 was hollow and open for water to flow through it. The wood was treated, so I guess they figured no problem. But all the wood stringers were nailed together to the bulk heads, and at the corners where they met, they added 2x2's to reinforce them. So when one piece of plywood got wet and soaked it up, it would travel until it hit that 2x2 which had good contact with the surface of the plywood. It then transferred it to the other piece of plywood and so on. Drip water on an exposed part of the bulk head and it eventually soaked itself into the stringers. The only reason my transom was spared is the center stringer plywood stopped about 1/2 inch from the transom and it was connected by the glass covering. The lower part of the transom was all glassed over so some water in the bilge would not soak in, but if it got over 12" deep, it would have. Are all boats like this, no. But I feel if the wood has a moisture source in one spot, over years it will travel throughout that one piece. So, the corner of your transom has been wet long enough to rot. I am guessing it is spreading and the rest of it is wet also. May not be rotted yet, but I would guess it is wet. Have you drilled any holes yet to see how the wood comes out in other locations? You mentioned the trans and drives are out, what about the gimbals? If they are out, dig into the wood there below any protective sealings that are on it and look at that wood. Or the exhaust outlets. these may be sealed and feel dry, but the wood behind may be wet. Some of mine I replaced with plywood, some I poured with nidabond. Nidabond was not cheap, but it was pretty easy actually. It really wasn't that expensive either though. I paid $367 delivered for it from California I think and got 2 or 3 five gallon pails. Hopefully I am wrong and you can let me know that the corner can be rotted, but the gimble hole next to it still dry. Been married 18 years, used to being wrong :lolhit: Good luck, keep us informed. Hate to see another scarab III die. Brian |
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