Yeah the daredevil fit the rotozip rotary saws without the guard. Personally I think the guards on these just get in the way. I'm hoping the new made in Japan bi-metal blades I ordered from eBay work longer than what came with my porter cable oscilating saw. Things wore out and started smoking so quick it was SAD! Kinda useless having an awesome saw with S%#T blades offered by the OEM. I'm glad there are alternatives. Might just get the adapter and try the harbor freight blades. How far down should I cut off the stringers to the hull? Thanks

thats weird. im still on my first blade with my craftsman saw. i had better results with the half moon type blade as it didnt deflect as much as the long flat one and start cutting crooked. cut em down close and then grind em all the way down smooth and then wire wheel the whole area to get it nice and clean and ready for bedding in the new stringers.

I've noticed blades run either great or they suck. the majority of the blades I got from HF lasted a long time but it seemed the brand named stuff wore out in no time. Anymore I just buy HF bimetal blades and to date I have broke more then I've worn out, well I didn't break them but a greenhorn shop helper did. I've yet to break any and have no idea how he did but he cracked three of 'em :picard1:

I also have one of those dual blade cutters. the one with like 2 five inch circular running in opposite directions. thats another habdy tool right there :D

Are these the ones? http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pst7iszxhl.jpg

Also, found out the daredevil blades DO NOT, fit the rotozip saw! Advertisement on the site I bought them from stated they would, but they need a 5/8 arbor for daredevil blades. Rotozip is smaller. Now I know why everyone just sells these rotozips on CL, frickin expensive blades that can't even last halfway through a wood/fiberglass job!

yep those are the ones, I like the offset ones to. I seem to get a lot of life out of those from HF, they last me months and I use them regularly. I also picked up one of those circular saw thingies that has two blades that spin in opposite directions, that thing is a beast but blades only last through one transom job. It has its place but doesn't see a lot of use, it works good for cutting remaining transom wood into little blocks to be pried out. The good part about that tool is limited depth like the rotozip so you have a bit of a safe margin away from the surface fiberglass.

Just to update, purchased 2 3/4 sheets of mahogany faced marine grade A plywood. Was $100 per sheet from woodworkers source here in Phoenix. Let the fun commence!

Clamped the two pieces so they wouldn't warp
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psknv9jo0u.jpg

Stuff is literally flawless..
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5spqho35.jpg

Better than the original 7 ply outdoor stuff by just a little lol
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pslrd0blon.jpg

Now if I could only find a place to buy some transom core bonding material!

Looks good Borgie. When I got my wood I almost went with Shop Birch which had i think 9 plys. Did some quick resarch on phone and saw mixed reviews so ended up with two sheet of 7 ply marine wood for transom and two sheets of 7 ply CDX for stringers.

Hey thanks! Just got the fiberglass supplies today that I will need excluding 3M Corebond. Stuff is impossible to find and I'm not paying $300 for something that's not worth that. Think I'm just gonna go traditional as far as layup schedule on this. Will need to assure the surface is good and true. What method are you employing on yours?

I'll be using the normal 1.5oz mat laminating the new transom would to inner skin. First I have to layer up some mat on my stb side. There is about 1ft by 8in area in the upper corner where it either delaminated or was never there. That's my only trouble spot. I just cut one piece of transom wood tonight, hope to test fit tomorrow.

Just a few pics to update those of you that might not have seen my build thread. Just decided to stay the course and do it the right way, even though most of the surrounding wood besides engine stringers were quite solid.

Stringer jig
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psejarzxmh.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psbqqnvl6p.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psvrisghmb.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pslsud9w5v.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pstlw9q6g1.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...pska9aoyyd.jpg

Big thanks to Glassdave for all of his help thus far! I'm learning a lot.