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-   -   Stringer delamination? (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/do-yourself-boating-budget/197884-stringer-delamination.html)

Full Force 11-03-2008 08:47 AM


Originally Posted by offthefront (Post 2730655)
When I has some issues I looked at product called "Seacast" ... cut the top of the stringer off and remove all wood material and then pour in the seacast and reglass in the cap ...I did not use it however .... went with Coosa High Density Foam ...m

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/f...project-2.html

http://www.coosacomposites.com/

Isn't that Coosa stuff expensive?

offthefront 11-03-2008 09:17 AM


Originally Posted by Full Force (Post 2730720)
Isn't that Coosa stuff expensive?

It wasnt cheap ...seems was about 180.00/sheet (4x8) ...We used 3 layers of 1.5" for the center Stringer and the Bulkhead ...1" for the outside stringers ... Its done though now and is lighter wont rot .....I dont think it really added to the value of the boat but I do think it will help sell it ....m

Full Force 11-03-2008 09:45 AM


Originally Posted by offthefront (Post 2730749)
It wasnt cheap ...seems was about 180.00/sheet (4x8) ...We used 3 layers of 1.5" for the center Stringer and the Bulkhead ...1" for the outside stringers ... Its done though now and is lighter wont rot .....I dont think it really added to the value of the boat but I do think it will help sell it ....m

I figured since he was not planning on keeping it too much longer to make it cheaper, if done right and sealed well the wood would be fine, keeping cost down.

I had mine done last winter, transom, all 3 stringers and bulkhead for 4100.00 that included paint, and marine plywood for transom, my stringers are made from 2x12's I like that since it is one piece of wood, not sandwiched wood

Sunshadow 11-04-2008 04:05 PM

Thanks for all the advice and pictures. I still have one guy asking questions and thinking about buying it. When he goes away you guys are getting me jazzed to take it apart. Problem is if I take it apart it will snowball. If the engines come out then they have to come apart and will need forged internals a stroker crank aluminum heads ect ect ect. All the new glass and engine compartment will have to be sanded smooth and gelcoated. It may never see water again and like anyone else who has done this kind of thing I'll have way more money in it than it's worth. :ernaehrung004:

Full Force 11-04-2008 05:00 PM


Originally Posted by Sunshadow (Post 2731780)
Thanks for all the advice and pictures. I still have one guy asking questions and thinking about buying it. When he goes away you guys are getting me jazzed to take it apart. Problem is if I take it apart it will snowball. If the engines come out then they have to come apart and will need forged internals a stroker crank aluminum heads ect ect ect. All the new glass and engine compartment will have to be sanded smooth and gelcoated. It may never see water again and like anyone else who has done this kind of thing I'll have way more money in it than it's worth. :ernaehrung004:

It does not have to snowball.... do the engines another time, they are easy to take in and out, unless yours are not good now, if they run keep running them, it is worth the work, I love showing off what my boat was and is now.

rchevelle71 11-04-2008 07:34 PM


Originally Posted by Full Force (Post 2730774)
my stringers are made from 2x12's I like that since it is one piece of wood, not sandwiched wood

That is ABSOLUTELY the WRONG way to do it, laminated plywood is much stronger than a single piece of wood, a single piece will splinter whereas the grain in plywood is staggered on each ply, much stonger.

Full Force 11-04-2008 08:39 PM


Originally Posted by rchevelle71 (Post 2731931)
That is ABSOLUTELY the WRONG way to do it, laminated plywood is much stronger than a single piece of wood, a single piece will splinter whereas the grain in plywood is staggered on each ply, much stonger.

It has been that way for 22 yrs with no issues, I had the boat redone the way it came when built, barely wet when removed but I figured redo it while I had it apart.

It did not ROT like the plywood in the rest of the boat, what is stronger then?

AIR TIME 11-17-2008 06:35 PM

he is right the plywood is glassed together which done right is better, my 88 stringers look like plywood, put I could be wrong I need the bulkhead in front of the motor replaced stringers look go so far and the floor might need some work mine is going in as soon as I am recoved from my knee replacement this spring I have a new 572 bower motor going in so the bulkhead has to be moved or mod wear the belt drive is:eek: and I want to add a bulkhead going into the cabin it has plexiglass on each side now plus a ring bulkhead in the cabin we have reinforce the deck already a few yrs back I want this to last another 20 years the past 20 it went from a 60mph boat to a 83mph boat its faster but ran out of prop at 6000rpm. the new motor should get me over 100mph. artie

Pete280 11-17-2008 07:31 PM

Airtime did you already add a ring bulkhead in the cabin or you are going to? I thought about adding one to my boat, it has a large deck that can flex in the rough, I want to try and strengthen it up.

AIR TIME 11-18-2008 02:06 AM


Originally Posted by Not Right (Post 2741672)
Airtime did you already add a ring bulkhead in the cabin or you are going to? I thought about adding one to my boat, it has a large deck that can flex in the rough, I want to try and strengthen it up.

going to add one I think if you wrap it up the ends with a layer of carbin fiber it will stiffen it up more Iam putting a full one at base of the cabin and full where the motor is so ANEW BACK SEAT WILL BE NEEDED TOO.


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