Installing thru hull and sea cock?
 

ok, im going to be installing a seacock for raw water onto my old mans new boat. just want to see what you guys think.
i was planning on just using 1 1/4" stainless screws that would give about 1" into the boat. i was going to do a very slight counter sink into it so it wont crack. is this good or should i use longer screws, or threw bolt it? i think thew bolting would be 3 more chance of leak, and longer screws would be 3 more chance of cracking.
whay do you guys think?

I think thru bolt it and also use 5200 !!!! On the thruhull and the bolts .
Never gona leak !!!

im just scared to put all those holes in one spot. hhmmmmm, i know thew bolt will hold it best

What he said!!!!!!!

same when installing new bilge drain? removed my old copper one & putting in a stainless one.

YEP:ernaehrung004:

that,s how i do it,i also make a round plate to put inside the boat.don,t try to seal it with rtv silicone,get the 5200.it takes 7 days to completly work,but it will not leak.:rolleyes:

should i make a stainless plate arounf the thru hull with the outside larger then the seacock so when i thew bolt it i wont use washers i can go thew the stainless ring? on the 5200 i got the fast cure 5200, good? and how do i use it? drill the hole put 5200 in the hole and on the bolt slide it threw and dab it on again?

again, im new to this, just looking to save some $$ im plenty able to do the work, i just want to be sure i do it correct

thanks

The fast cure is the best,,,,just drill all your holes ,,then aply 5200 on the thru hull and mount it ,,,put a little of 5200 on each bolt and in the hole and be done !!

ok, sounds like what i was planning. cool. thanks for the info

I'm sorry I am a little confused? What's with all the talk about screws and bolts? All the thru hulls I've seen are threaded with a large jamb nut on the inside so the only hole is for the pipe going thru the hull. There where a few others using a couple screws to hold it from spinning and keeping it in position. I agree on the 5200. Just my confused 2cents.

On the thru hulls I did, I also coated the the inside of all drilled holes with resin. A little extra measure.

the thru hull is threaded, but the sea cock threads onto it and has 3 holes around it. to me it looked like a few 1" screws would hold it from spinning.

here is the thew hull i will be using.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...0&classNum=217




here is the seacock i will be using. the seacock is threaded to attach to the threw hull.


http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...70&classNum=71

the seacock pictured is not needed for your use, unless the thru hull is cut to perfection as for length.. the 3 hole flanged type are used when the fit is not so snug and the thru fitting is not too long. the 3 holes are for mounting then installing thru hull that is correct and accurate length from outside with proper tool.
keep in mind the 5200 is very, very strong and in the need for repair or a broken seacock it will be a chore to replace. 4200 is slightly more flexable and is more user friendly when the need to repair arrises.
if this is an area in the bottom you may want to recess the thru hull into the gel slightly by sanding with the proper diameter sanding disc on a grinder or drill. then use the sealant as a fairing compound.

good luck.